Sunday, 10 January 2010

A busy weekend in Wales - SOME BIG LOBS-BE CAREFUL

Hi baggy,

Big fall on the Somme on Thursday, the boy was lucky to escape with a broken ankle and lucky 22 was around to pick up. I think I am right in saying this climb is out of condition. Did the Pipes today. This is a brilliant long single pitch for those happy at the grade. Not to be missed, with a thin start..

Matt Sutton

Hi Baggy,
At least five teams ascend a pretty skinny looking Devil 's Appendix on Sunday. One guy took a big lob and lost both of his leashless tools. It was a lot skinnier by the end of the day.

Andrian Treadwell

Hi Mark

Some 'late' news from Friday 8th January.

We had a day off work to make the most of the current ice conditions in Wales but without any firm plans. However once up at Idwal it was obvious that the Appendix was at least worth a try. Several hours later it was in the bag. The first pitch was another inspired lead by Mark but the second and third were also very good value and slightly spooky. Fantastic ice formations at the top. Not sure if anyone else has done it but no obvious signs above the first pitch icicle. Managed to get some decent gear in the second pitch stance (2 good pegs and a wire up and left). Great day but we were a bit frazzled for today so did Face Route in the pass - excellent. Tony Walker and Mark Gration. See pic below.

Some one also took a big lob on Cascade today. Thankfully they are not to damaged.

Hi mark

Devils appendix had some traffic today as did almost everything in idwal

Lots on sting,cellar and ques and hour plus on screen

We did screenand devils pipes both v good but pipes was brittle

Hope to have some pics will send later

Alistair Borrett

Hey Baggy,

Thanks to a tip off from Tim Jepson and Dodi, I headed up to The Ribbon in Cwm Graianog. What a great route! Climbing a perfect streak of ice in a brilliant, but committing setting. Only saw 2 walkers today. A few things, the old Nant Ffrancon road is like an ice rink at the moment, would suggest finding an alternative parking/approach for all routes requiring access from this road (unless in a 4x4). There is also a lot of snow being moved around on the strong winds of the last few days so keep an eye out for windslab on sheltered slopes.

Chris Hooper

Hi Baggy,

Trojan not in good shape apart from the upper section. I climbed about 30m and then the next 10ft at least of ice fell away. Needs some freeze thaw to come in to nick! A

Cheers Chris Guest

Hi Baggy,

The path up to the Black Ladders is now a flattened motorway, after hordes made their way there yesterday.
Lots of folk heading for Western Gully & Eastern Gully. Parkin & Long left new-routing in the dark around Gallipoli; lucky souls! Passchendaele was our choice after letting a visiting dad & son team take Gallipoli.Lots of powder & wind slab on the turfy ledfge routes which made them a little too exciting in places.

Cascade done in the dark last night I understand by Rob from J Browns and Helana !!

All the Best
Geoff Bennett

Hi Baggy

I was out on Yr Esgair Saturday with Ali then, ok conditions, turf not that frozen but holding enough. It was a bit windy at the notch and a few places further up with some spindrift adding to the feel! Definately a winter route! There were a few other solo folks and parties about, but by no means crowded.

We bumped into John and Malcolm from Conway Centre who were headed for The Curver, who looked like they were enjoying it, so, after topping out of Yr Esgair ridge we headed down Easy Gully and headed for The Curver. In agreement with Tim Jepson, it is a bit longer than the 170m in the guide. We bumped in to a party of three on the route who were
enjoying their "new experience". Some interesting cornice shapes on the scarp slope at thetop of the route and some amazing views in every direction! Lots of windslab on the E and SE aspects on the descent back to Ogwen.

I headed out with Ali Sunday again and we were originally bound for the Snowdon area, however, the road on the pass had other ideas for Ali's van. Snow had been blown onto the road from about the quartz stone corner and was succeeding in turning back folks.So with tails between our legs and now half an hour behind the crowds, we retreated and headed for Cwm Idwal. Sure enough, it was busy with plenty deep queues on most of the visible ice routes and a few others too. We opted for a little less climbed option, Sub Wall Route (IV) on Idwal Slabs. The first pitch was initially a bit of powder swimming, but soon got a little fruity. I took on the second pitch, which proved a bit sparse on gear and solid placements for crampon or axe. Lots of
the snow consisted of sugary snow/ice loosely bonded to the slab, mostly with air! There is a nice little step and slab which maintains the interest of the leader. Ali stepped up for a more consolidated 3rd pitch and i took on the fourth.
I am not sure it is a route i would rush out and repeat, but we did have it to ourselves on a very busy day. Maybe that is something to be said of the route we chose??!!

Ali, stepping out around the undercling at the beginning of the 3rd pitch.

Dave Brown

Hi Baggy.

Went to look at abba to see if it was in condition. It isnt and its not even close. Not even the little falls to the right are in condition either !

Ta David

Hey Baggy,

Did Maesglase today. 3 teams in total. It looked like someone else had already been on it. Very good nick! The main fall is best taken on the left as one of the teams had to bail going right. Amazing, highly recommend it!


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