Wednesday, 23 December 2009

Major News - What a Few Days - Its all kicking off - Chapter 1

Major News : Major ascent by Andy Turner.
Its awesome news.
Wales is there with the best of Winter Climbing in the UK
Nice one Andy.
Also, other rare ascents of certain routes.
Tune in on Thursday for full details.
This winter is bloody brill and its only December.

This is chapter one folks, there is more to come, just about keeping up with you all.

Hi Baggy, I can confirm that most of the routes in Cwm Idwal were in good shape today. We climbed South Gully, The Screen and The Ramp, all good and you could in fact just carry half a dozen screws and protect yourself quite nicely. Loads of teams out.

Of more value as information (or non info) is that none of the Dyfi ice routes seem to be forming, lack of altitude I guess.

Cheers for upto date beat from Hugh Gilbert.

Lee Roberts and Stu Stanley went up to do Reades Route today between shifts today ( Wednesday ) Was well hoared and great fun, (If not a little tricky!) Some nice icy runnels and frozen turf up there. We were both surprised by the amount of snow (or ball bearings about!) Day finished off with a quality bum slide off the ridge down to the Pyg, (though obviously we dont advcate such behaviour!) Take care and climb safe. One pic attached courtesey of Lee.

Stu topping out on Reades Route Poss VI-6

More news on the new routes on Monday from the Panton Team

Hello there Baggy lad!

Hope you had a great day today, how fuckin good is it in Wales eh?! Love it! That is Jon Ratcliffe commenting on his first day mixed climbing in North Wales. Bring it on Jon, I kept telling you and everyone else Wales is F!!!! Ace . Anyway Jon did not just sample what Wales had to offer he stormed in there and bagged some new routes alongside Andy Scott. So more new fall and another possible VII-7 hits wales. Nice one fellas.

Nw routes off the boys are all on Glyder Fach they are

Hidden Corner V-5/6
Clod Hopper V1-6
Tabasco Fiasco VII-7

Jon Ratcliffe on Tabasco Fiasco VII-7

Andy Scott on first Ascent of Clod Hopper VI-6

In addition to this Si Panton took on my rave reviews from last season and went and climbed the Needle Eye Route on Glyder Fach V-6. I though this was a top route. Simon had to say " Its Excellent " His partner was Tim Badcock

Simon making the technical and very different moves into the Needles Eye

Olly Sanders reports a good day in Idwal.

In ogwen today ( Tuesday ) and did the Screen and South gully with nigel Garret his first time winter climbing oops. Saw Kath wilson and Sam leary on the Ramp and they had done South Gully yesterday. All have enough ice on them although protection is a little scarce on South Gully and the Appendix is getting close

Jon Garret on South Gully IV Not bad for his first ice route and being a paddler. Nothing beats excellerated learning of the kinasthectic kind

Pic of Screen and Appendix on Tuesday ( By Olly Sanders )

Al Leary reports in again and I can sense of change, the darkside is waiting Al. His wife Sam and Cath Wilson were out in Idwal on Monday

Al adds, Not wanting to spoill the current N.Wales party scene, but the only buzz I can feel at the mo, is the impending arrival of the Spring Equinox ! Today marks the first real crux of winter ; with the passing of every day, we can now look forward to some proper, warm climbing. The word is, it's all there on South Gully, but due to the slightly thin, early season conditions it requires a precise and cofident approach. Ice protection was from stubby screws.. The ice was remarkably dry and all in all, a fine afternoon out

Sam Leary on main pitch of South Gully on Monday- looks good

Alf chilling out at the top of South Gully on Monday

Hi baggy

Owen Hayward and myself went for an afternoon on Tuesday ended up deciding to do Twisting Gully, up on Glyder Fawr main cliff. Cracking route on a crag with an 'out there' feel to it. Main pitch quite lean, with it feeling quite warm, turf was a bit 'hit & miss' (not quite literally) and didn't appear to start freezing properly until about 800m. Waist deep graupel in upper section of Gully, and was still drifting as we topped out. Saw other teams on South Gully, and also the Screen and the Ramp.

Martin Land

Greg Cain went to Idwal on Tuesday and climbed castle gully, pretty good, However, he said it was not worth the walk in though. He then climbed the ramp, which he thought was getting a bit on the thin side, certainly under the roof section, very fragile feeling. Good route though, and hopefully if we get a good freeze tonight will stay ok.

Some of his friends were in cwm glas, and said the weather was pretty foul, and loads of groupel everywhere making life hard.

1 comment:

geoff b said...

Hi Baggy,
Have photos of Andi T & Stu Mac yesterday, but will wait until Ray has uploaded or sold his copy (his professional need is greater!). Conditions in Cwm Cneifion were wonderful even on the easier routes which had less powder & graupel than previously. Tops were empty; I spent an hour on top of Glyder Fawr at lunchtime & saw not a soul!
Nadolig Llawen
Geoff Bennett