Tuesday, 21 December 2010

Those Bloody Texts and Calls-Major New VII-7's In One Day plus other routes. - Wales Is K A

The Psyche continues, the game is upped and North Wales keeps giving the UK top Product.

Amongst all the deep snow and chaos the boys are still out knocking out the product and the grades rise.

Bring it one.

4 new routes in two days at V-6, VI-6, VII-7 and another VII-7 ( Actually make that a few more see V12 and DMM links for all the news )

Tim Neil and Nick Blullock bagged a super line which they had been looking at for some time. Central Route ( summer line VS ) on Llech Ddu at VII-7. Tim and Nick raved about the route on the phone " one pitch is as good as any pitch on Central Grooves up North or Black Cleft " said Tim " Best route I have done in Wales " was Nick's view. Wow that is some praise as these chaps have done a few routes in their time.

The route follows the summer line taking in obvious winter deviations along the way. Lots of snow walking in, snowing all day and more snow on the way out gave the full experience. With Nick being a little modest on his grading could it be harder ?

Tim and Nick have been like kids in a sweet shop of late FULL DETAILS AND SOME TOP PICS FROM RAY WOOD AND THE TEAM - VISIT DMM SITE

Next on the blower was Owen Hayward who with Martin Land ( His first route on the Ladders ) climbed a new route in between Gerlan Heights and Gallipio on the Black Ladders. Yr Arianrhod ( Named after Hedd Wyn's Lass who apparently looked like this Celtic Lady ) Giving 4 pitches ( once your in the basin of Central Gully ) two at VI-6 and one at VII-7 . Owen was again praising the climbing with varied mixed ground, at times run out " classic ladders climbing" . Saying that is was as classic as Hedd Wynn and slightly harder gives an idea of the quality of the line. Having lead all but one pitch, snowing all day again the full experience was had by Owen with Martin well chuffed with his first route on the laders and his first VII- Not a bad day out then chaps and not a bad for someone who is into bouldering Owen !!!

Finally, Mr Parkin alongside Kieth Ball claimed two more lines on the Ladders, see the V12 link for full news.

For me, its been a day of suspense, texts, and calls, all the time wishing I was out there. Anyone know the feeling ?

This season has truly exploded and with a new guide out soon, ah that guide, the new guide which is now out of date !! cheers chaps it has been another mega season and its still December !

There is plenty scope out there, so expect more exciting reports and news as the routes fall.

Talking of scope, hears a good tale , sounds quality and scary !!


Been in the Kitchen today. Still deep powder, and was snowing heavily again as we left. We met someone coming off The Stream, which was apparently ok on the steep bits but was terrible in between. Teams queuing on The Ramp, which looked thin. Screen and Curtain were not in. A team started The Appendix but we didn't see them top out. Met another pair who backed off South Gully due to poor ice, although it was climbed later on. They went on to climb Stingray. We climbed Devils Drainpipe, which was very scary due to poor ice in the upper gully. Hopefully a bit better tomorrow?

Jamie Mac and Justin

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