Monday, 1 February 2010

Why go any where else

When conditions on one of the best winter crags in the UK are like they are, then why go anywhere else ?

The Black Ladders are again in quality nick.

Today I managed to fit Gallipoli ( V-5 ) in with Simon Verspeak. Having been informed of it's quality over recent weeks, I was keen to tick it off. What a quality route this is, a full 3 stars. An initial solo of grade I-II ground on bomber neve, brings you to the start of the main climbing. You are then gifted with 4 quality pitches ( 4-4-5-3 ) of continually interesting climbing, ice, neve, turf all keep you whooping with joy even to the last axe plant as you top out.

What more do you need. Total length of climbing nearly 300m. However, not a route if you like lots of gear, but never any surprises. The description on Pete,s topo on the welsh winter wiki is spot on, use that and ignore the info in the welsh winter climbs.

After this we had a quick look at a possible new route lower down, but things not quite as frozen so best left for another day, meaning the cafe was on the agenda for once.

On the way down go chatting to a mate of Len Lovett who put the route up in 1991 with Chris Ayers. Great end to a great day.

I do hope the weather over the next week or so does not go warm for an extended period as it would be a shame to loose the conditions we have on this crag.

Party on Eastern Gully were also delights with the great conditions. That was it only 5 folk on the crag.

Pitch 1

Si on pitch 2

Pitch 3

Crux of route, a couple of moves and its over

Hope you all enjoyed the weekend if you got out. Nice to see good weather matching up with a weekend for once.

Also Blenderhead receives a rare ascent ( see below ). This route which was in the headlines last winter is one of the harder routes in Wales at VII-8. Seems like Lee has done well pulling all those hoses


Another day off work again so we headed to Clogwyn Du where Lee had his eye on Blenderhead. Conditions were proper Winter and apart from one heart stopping moment, he cruised it! Cliff was well hoared. Storm and Ivan made a neat ascent of Pillar Chimney also. Long last Winter!

Lee about to start crux on Blenderhead having climbed VI-6 to arrive here.

Lee Roberts 'out there' on Blenderhead


Hey Baggy,

Very cold in the wind today up in Cwm Cneifion, fleeting visibility and lots of rime coating the crag... Climbed Right Hand Gully Direct on Clogwyn Ddu with Jim Potter; in great condition, taking ice screws in a number of places. Saw teams on Cneifion Arete, Pillar Chimney & Blenderhead




Jim Potter approaching belay on Right Hand Gully Direct

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