Managed to head up to Clogwyn Du, Empty, crag to myself for two hours so blitz it – well soloed Clog right hand, towerslabs and Hidden, then talked this guy who was out for a walk into doing Left hand. I thought of soloing it but then common sense kicked in. Russell the walker forgot his harness too, so we wrapped him up in a sling and told him Id keep the rope very tight.
Great pitch, perfect nick to, bone dry rock with clean and clear placements, shop load of in-situ stuff too. Easier than I thought it would be. IV5 would be about right today.
Russell did a brilliant job considering he had only done a couple of grade two’s before and some VS rock.
Top pitch was very very fat!!
We went to the Ladders in the hope of great adventures however, its not too good up there! Little in nic at all! Possibly Eastern Arete (lots of icy runnels leading to the arete), Pyramid gully (just/marginaly possible from our distant angle), Central Gully has a very large hole in it. Galipoli none existent/black , Western Gully is bare and not proper Winter, The Somme we looked at closely but its ultra thin and looks rotten, maybe possible for the ultras. All buttress' black. The far end routes Nightfall looked good.The positives- the turf is frozen bottom to top and Icefall Gully was great on sound ice. The focus is 2/3 pitches of good ice at iv * with pre and after amble on good neve!
Stu and Lee
Ice Fall Friday
Cwn Cneifion 11th Feb.
Nipped up expecting to see the crag as yesterday but not to be -
black, the faces looked like needed rock shoes so amended plans and
did Pillar Chimney with Jon on the sharp end for the trutch pitch.
Duncan, Miles & Lee followed us.
All ice looks gods and faces will not take much to 'winter up' again.
Did the ice route to right of North gully - just left of Cracking Up.
Good 4 with a very short (5m) but 6 exit direct on to perfect neve.
looked like others had sneaked off round left. Any idea of what it is?
Lots of folk in left & right gullies and one team on Torqueing Shit -
looked good pitch shame about the name. Nb. should it mot be torquing,