Wednesday, 4 February 2009

Llech Ddu Hit

Today was a great day in North Wales, clear blue skies and no wind, a complete change to yesterday. Pete and I went on a visit to Llech Ddu. We found windslab on small lee slopes at this level 600m, nothing to worry about here, but highlights that pockets could exist higher up.



A strange noise was heard on walk in !



We climbed a new route V-5/6 , 2 pitches, 30m and 40m. This is just to the right of Lota and made most of the turf around. The first pitch had a small tricky rock section, with the second pitch providing the best climbing on blobs of turf. This route would would be easier with some neve.

Pete on the second pitch of the new route



Next we did the first winter ascent of Corridor Gully - we think ? The line in the guide we feel is in the wrong place and the description is not great. Anyway this proved a really good route with a small overhang to pass. 50m IV-6.

Pete on top section of Corridor Gully



Next we climbed another new route, starting up the first section of Far East Chimney then going direct up the corner. The corner was on thin turf and had v little gear. V-4. This would be less serious with neve in the corner


Finally we took time out to look at the Black Ladders In Its Glory



Hi baggy,

We did sergeants gully yesterday due to a possible threat of possible wind slab on other routes. The ice was thin in places, as expected with a covering of powder snow. The gully needs a good couple of nights of freezing to be properly formed, so at the moment its do able but thin in places. water in some parts just underneath the ice, so care is required.

Cheers Big Andy Jones

4 comments:

geoff b said...

Hi Baggy,
Many folk cimbing by moonlight/torchlight last night so keen are we daytime workers! Chris from Browns was off to Idwal, Rob from Browns & myself did Face Route on Cyrn Las. A soft IV with plastic pick placements, lots of screws & brilliant foot holds on meringue covered snow! A lovely night with nary a breath of wind. Now its time to teach!
Geoff B
Regards to Mad Mark; we went looking for new routes on Llech Ddu a couple of years back.

Robin Eveleigh said...

Cheers for the Face Route update - reckon it's in good nick now then? Wouldn't mind a go on Sunday but I'd be climbing at my limit and don't want to be scratching about on thin stuff. Someone on UKC said it had been climbed but reported as 'interesting'. Love these winter climbing euphemisms!

geoff b said...

Robin,
It's easier than it has been; I did it a couple of years ago & it was steeper then. I'd say it was soft for IV last night; The Devil's Cellar & The Curtain were steeper back in January. The ice isn't so thin, it took 19cm ice screws up to the hilt in places! There was a sugary band of snow covered in meringue like crust but this could be avoided without much problem & actually made placing the feet a lot easier as there was less front pointing!
Incidentally there was evidence of an earlier ascent, footprints etc.
Of course between now & Sunday lots could happen, but the thaw/freeze cycle should make it fatter if anything.
Best Wishes
Geoff B

Robin Eveleigh said...

Thanks for that Geoff. It's been on the hitlist for a while so I'll aim for it at the weekend.