Just a quick update for now, full report on Tuesday.
Tony Moody sent me this info on Cwm Idwal for Sunday.
Climbed South Gully and Devil's Kitchen. Had done South Gully about 12 years ago and think it has formed much more interestingly this time. It's really very, very good climbing on the main pitch.
Thought Devil's Kitchen gives a brilliant pitch up steep blobs at the moment. It's not possible to exactly follow the g/bk description as the ice out right hasn't formed, so it needs a steep direct approach. More than good value for a IV! Although short I'd say harder than Cascade.
Pretty mobbed up there on the Screen. Devil's Pasture popular too. Didn't see what was happening further L. On walk up saw people heading for the Appendix. So probably got climbed again yesterday, although I noted that the icicle didn't really apper to have touched down!
Also have 1 place left this weekend on grade III/IV ice day. Give me an e mail if your interested.