Thursday, 6 January 2011

More New Routes

They keep coming and Its been a top day here. Ladders busy, loads done and a cool hard short variation to Birdsong in the bag. More details soon.

Trinity Face ( Wednesday )

Dyn-Ogof, V, 60m

A well positioned counter line to Cave Buttress.Start just right of the toe of Cave Buttress below the shallow left facing groove.

P1 25m 4/5 Pull over the small bulge into the groove. Up this to gain the flake belays of Cave Buttress.
P2 35 m 5/6 Pull up and work up onto the left arete of the buttress, until an awkward move around it gains a good ledge. Along this for a few metres, then up onto a ledge below a steep right facing corner. Peg cracks will encourage you to go steeply up this to gain easier ground and to rejoin the easy upper ridge of Cave Buttress.
[Tim Neill and Jim Mac 5-1-11]

Ci-Tarw, IV/V, 60m

Follows the attractive grooved arete just right of Scoundrels Staircase, and left of the Lux Flakes gully.

60m 4/5 From the lowest point of the buttress, good block belay, take the airy feature directly with sustained ( at the grade ) climbing. Belay as for SS at good spikes/threads etc. Easier to the top.Hard to grade, obscure pro, awkward, exposed etc.
[Tim Neill and Jim Mac 5-1-11]


Hi Baggy

Great day out on the Trinity Face, Central, Right-hand and Cave Cheers Colin


Cruised around Y Garn having a ball on this neve what joy. Alice

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