Temps seem warmer this afternoon.

Looks like the mixed routes are the things to aim for, mind you rising temps on Saturday so better out early. The rise in temps is going to be a good thing as it will help bring the snow into better condition when the temps drop again on Monday.

Many gullies seem to have a lot of new soft snow in. Ridges, grade 1-3 scrambles will be a good bet in addition to the mixed / more rocky routes.

However,  this wind has been full on so scouring could have taken place meaning turf exposed and frozen and maybe some of the underlying neve will be exposed.

Reades Route was done today in quite grim weather. Good rime and ice on arrival, by midday the temps had gone up and a lot of snow rime disappeared.

Also routes to side of Parsons Nose done mid week, but this crag was out of nick this morning and reports of climbers walking up there and deciding the crag was not in nick.

Travesty was climbed 2 again on Wednesday that is 4 ascents this week already.

Sking on the Carneddau could be good on Saturday

Few pics from this afternoon

Carneddau

Glyder

Snowdon

Back and fresh snow on the hills

Since returning this afternoon from my mini break to Yorkshire looks like a fair bit of snow has landed. Reports of skinning and skiing on the Carneddau sound good.

A variety of rocky/mixed routes have been climbed and some of the cliffs look very white from the pictures I have seen.

I reported the other day that routes on Snowdon are not going to be in nick at the moment, but folk still seem to be going up there. Most routes require neve and good snow conditions.

I would say a good amount of snow has fallen high up this afternoon and looking at the forecast things should quoted down Friday.

At least the weekend looks worth a visit up here. One thing a lot of turf is going to be buried and it does not sound as there is a lot of that frozen at the moment.

Moving onto a Scottish theme

There will be the inaugural Scottish Winter Climbing meet held this Feb in Fort William.

This is supported by the MCofS and is a social and get together for all folk into Scottish Winter Climbing.

Its hoped that it will become an annual event and can be hosted at different venues throughout Scotland in future years.

http://www.scottishwinterclimbing.co.uk

A sigh of relief

For all of you who are stuck in work and wondering if your missing out or considering having a day off !!! then fear not. Well not few the next few days at least.

Last night the hills were stripped with very little snow left. The temps did rise as the forecast suggested. However,  the temps have gone down since this morning.  I forgot the camera today on the hill but to give you a feel let me explain.

Tryfan is bare apart from a scattering near the top. Glyders are the same with Glogwyn Ddu being bare/black also. The back of cwm is dotted with snow and not looking white.

Tops of Carneddau have the most snow, not sure on the crags.  I went  onto Y Garn this afternoon and this is holding a small amount of snow in Banana Gully which I went up. To be fair the snow required step kicking and was not wet. Once the temps drop this will give a nice outing on neve at grade 1. The snow line is at the base of the buttress in the cwm. Snow on the top 100m was hard and water ice was on the paths above 800m.

Based on this and reports from weekend I would say Cwm Lloer will be the same.

Grib Goch is bare and is the Parsons Nose apart from the very top. Snowdon was in the cloud.

We could do with the turf freezing before the snow comes again and as I write this post, its hailing outside and I am at 100m above sea level.

The forecast suggest more snow and lower temps this coming week. This is all very good whatever happens. It is so good to have some conditions this side of XMAS.

I will not post until Friday of this week as I am away working in Yorkshire taking a group caving, no need for me to worry about snow conditions for a few days. Check out yesterdays post if you have not done so.

The pics below are on my drive back from work taken at midday.

Carneddau

Back end of Glyders

Slow off the mark this year for me

I had been out walking and scrambling on the Glyders on Sunday 25th March and found ice and more snow than expected. With the forecast at the time ( for the week just gone  ) it was obvious that some kind of early and high conditions would form last week.

This was great news,  and for me,  a time to get some early season excitement. Having had a good sort out of my winter kit over the last month, purchases made, kit altered, repaired etc, I was in go mode. It was not even December.

So why no posts your ask. The answer to this ? I was off down south on Wednesday due to work and not back in N Wales until this evening. So I joined the club that looked at forecasts, updates and pictures and could do nothing but get disappointed.  So I was one of many just waiting to see what was in nick and who had done what.  In the meantime the text were coming in thick and fast.

Looking around the web and talking to quite a few folk today, seems the regular hard routes on Glogwyn Du came along with some slightly easier routes up there. The hard routes were quality ticks especially for the first real day of the season grade VII/ 8 and VIII/8 . There are some fit and psyched bunnies out there. Bring it on.

Baggy - it was mint on Clogwyn du today. very few people on it though. R and  R ticked Blenderhead and me and Neil griffiths ticked Taversty. Good day. fingers x'd it stays.

Quite a few teams have been out in the Carneddau with reports of good build up for this early in the season and after just a short time, but not enough to climb. Enough to hang on and rip out turf and get really scared , but why bother damage the turf, plants etc why not just wait that little longer.   Cwm Lloer loos like its been a poplar venue also.

Every one is really keen but we do have to wait and find suitable objectives.

Reports of routes on Snowdon surprised me and reading between the lines and speaking to local climbers who know a thing or two, there were no real conditions. This really worries me, in particular the post on UKC where a climber said RH Trinty was not frozen, the turf was not fully frozen and the route had very little neve etc, but was OK at about IV. No it is not OK, that whole face needs to be frozen with neve, it holds rare plants and actions like this just trash it and ruin for others.  Snowdon in particular does not have quality turf unlike other crags so more care is required here. It is quite easy to damage the plant life etc.

You may ask who I am to decide who should do what ? However, I do feel I have a good understanding of the area, the issues,  and having worked with the BMC and Countryside Council for Wales  in the production of their White Guide.

The North Wales White guide is a free guide to inform and educate winter climbers in Snowdonia on how best to enjoy the area, while at the same time minimising the potential damage to protected habitats and fragile environments Click this link for the guide .

Its aim is to inform and educate winter climbers about some of the fragile and internationally important habitats and plants that could be damaged by winter climbing activities, and how climbers can help to minimise any potential damage by identifying best practice.

Many of the best winter climbing venues in Snowdonia are also very important, legally protected Sites of Special Scientific Interest, which potentially could be inadvertently harmed if climbed in poor conditions or with poor techniques.

The guide is a combination of work from Dr Barbara Jones (BMC Volunteer and previously Upland Ecologist for CCW), Elfyn Jones (BMC Access & Conservation Officer), Joe Roberts (BMC volunteer and CCW Access Policy Officer) with input from Simon Panton and North Wales winter activists Mark “Baggy” Richards

.In addition to this, being the guide book author with Si Panton, then a duty is owed to the environment we play in.  That is enough from me, but I feel you do need to think carefully of what you do and when.

There seems to be a fair amount of snow above 600m with other reports of ski touring on the tops of the Carneddau.

The forecast for the next 6 days is quite good, with a possible fluctuation in temps and more snow. One thing I hope is that all this snow does not insulate the turf.

I am away again Tuesday for another 3 days, bad timing as this Monday looks poor and warmish temps.  Hopefully looking ahead the change for better conditions near the end of the week will pay off and lead into a good weekend.

Finally Will it ? Won't it ? Will it - it goes on, well if I knew it was going to be a good one this season I would happily share that with you. Who knows, fingers crossed.

lowest snow so far

Monday overnight gave snow fall down to 600m and today it was a lot colder.

With temps down to freezing at 500-600m for next few days and at times lower this could be the sign of the mixed action. With the ground so wet,  once that freezes it will be quality turf .

With not a thick covering of snow, which is a good thing, that turf etc has a chance of being frozen.

On the summits on Sunday the puddles were frozen over.

Check out this link On the 16th November British alpinists Matt Helliker and Jon Bracey made what is probably the 2nd ascent ofPlein Sud (900m, VI, WI4+/5R, M6+) up the wild South Face of the Grandes Jorasses.

£250.000

Its great to see British companies investing in the future.

In recent months DMM have stumped up 1/4 million pounds to help them stay one of the world leaders in climbing kit manufacture.

More details follow link

Wet and very windy

That about sums up the last few days

Sprinkles

Thats what the hills look like today with a sprinkling of snow on the high tops.

First Aid for the climber

No sign of any more snow on the hills as of Saturday morning.

Just finished directing and running a 2-day Rescue and Emergency Care (REC) First Aid course for Blue Peris Mountain Centre.

These course are nationally recognised and the industry standard for the outdoors. They are ideal for newcomers to first aid, climbers,  walkers, mountaineers and established, instructors, teachers, youth workers, etc.

The course provides very hands on learning looking at realistic scenarios. This course is not about sitting in the classroom. It covers a very wide range of topics which’s are delivered in a friendly learning environment.

There is no exam and no fancy names for parts of the body for you to learn.

The course will prepare and give you confidence to treat and deal with a variety of incidents both In the hills, at home, work and out in your free time.

The next course is December,  13th and 14th  full details clink on link.

Details for REC first aid course.

Pictures courtesy of Blue Peris

Damp, wet and warm

That about sums up recent weather here. Monday started good, then it went downhill from then.

In the meantime,  check out Andy Turner's blog. He has been putting in some fine effort of late on the dry tooling scene.