tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-32913059807843452452024-03-14T03:19:43.375+00:00Mark Baggy RichardsWelcome to North Wales winter and the finest and most upto date winter conditions blog.
Thanks go to Mountain Equipment and DMM for their long term support of the Welsh Winter Scene.Unknownnoreply@blogger.comBlogger271125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3291305980784345245.post-26143579966914871352015-02-11T16:53:00.002+00:002015-02-11T16:56:27.361+00:00When I said Stunning<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Here is the evidence of such a cracking weekend ( just gone ) If you were lucky to be out then a weekend to remember.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">These were taken by one of the trainee instructors from <a href="http://www.blueperis.co.uk/courses-home/">Blue Peris Outdoor Education Centre based in North Wales. </a></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The next trainee intake at the centre is Sep 2015, <a href="http://www.blueperis.co.uk/about-blue-peris-trainee-scheme/">interviews are in June, full details on how to apply follow the link.</a></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I drive up through the Ogwen Valley today. Snow is still there high up, but it was hard to see how much due to cloud. However, I could see the back of the Kitchen and any ice looked very thin and not climbable from the road.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">First picture shows Snowdon ( R/H ) the Glyders and then Tryfan</span><br />
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3291305980784345245.post-83586126385436361692015-02-08T17:33:00.001+00:002015-02-08T18:31:56.803+00:00Stunning & AlpineThese words sum up the weather and conditions this weekend. Sorry for those of you who could not get into the mountains this weekend, but its been one of those rare weekends. Crisp, clear, hardly any wind, sunny and winter climbing on tap. The pictures below are of Snowdon taken from the slate quarries this weekend whilst <a href="http://www.blueperis.co.uk/courses-first-aid-rec/">I have been directing a Rescue Emergency Care , 2 day first aid First Aid course for Blue Peris ( Mountain ) Outdoor Learning Centre</a>. However, it has seemed warmer than in the week and the temps do look like they will rise over the next few days. Should be ok to help consolidate the snow, mind you some will go, not sure about any ice that is about, feel that will disappear.<br />
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More new routes will have no doubt been added over the weekend. <a href="http://www.v12outdoornews.co.uk/climbing-news/">For full details of last weeks ticks got to V12</a><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Bob Johnson and Alistair Borrett.</span></h3>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3291305980784345245.post-87241058649538342822015-02-05T12:04:00.000+00:002015-02-05T12:17:55.038+00:00A winter we can be Excited about at lastWell its certainly winter here in N Wales. At last some conditions we can get excited about. Its been nearly two years since conditions like this could be found on Welsh Mountains. Its been a long wait and lets hope its going to keep lasting even if its on and off for the next few months. If so, we will have another bumper batch of new routes.<br />
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As expected people have been busy and new routes keeping falling. <a href="http://www.v12outdoornews.co.uk/climbing-news/">Visit V12 climbing blog</a> for some recent new routes in N Wales , Simon has more time than me these days to keep you updated.<br />
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Tuesday and Wednesday this week were stunning days, really cold and blue skies, loads of climbers getting out and missing work by the looks of it. Seems Glogwyn Ddu has been a busy place, from the texts and e mails i have received off climbers This is expected being high up and often in condition. A possible new variation on the classic left hand branch may have been climbed.<br />
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The ladders is reported to have a lot of rime , but looks grand form Bethesda.<br />
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I took a variety of pictures yesterday, on my travels driving around the park,but I am afraid they got deleted by accident .<br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">Hi Baggy,</span><br />
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Went out a couple of days back and got some proper Scottish conditions and did Right Hand Clogwyn Du with Rob Jones. We did a variation at the top which was not in the guide (i.e. not the diagonal variation described). It heads left at the top of the gully and goes straight up a left facing corner initially, its steep but good pro, to pull onto a ledge and into a cave (signs of ab tat at this point). From here, make a bridge too far and gain a precarious standing position on a fin. Make committing moves through the large roof to arrive onto another ledge. Exciting stuff. Just when you think its in the bag, you're faced with a desperate undercut corner with a useless wide crack at its join. Turn your attention rightwards and scale the second fin and stand precariously on it (good sling runners) then, lean left and hook your axes over the wall and commit to a swing and smear into the wide crack. Walk your axes along and yarn upwards swinging a leg, an elbow (or anything) over the top of the wall. A physical, well protected pitch.</div>
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Cant see it recorded anywhere and it looks a harder and better variation to the one described so were claiming it, unless someone else has been and climbed it.</div>
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Four Tool Direct V5 *** Stu Stanley/Rob Jones 2/2/15 35m </div>
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Pictures of Rob</div>
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Also for those of you that are not aware, there is a temperature probe in Cwm Idwal which is giving us some really useful information in regards to air and turf temperature. It is an excellent addition to the Welsh Winter scene. <a href="https://www.thebmc.co.uk/idwal">This link will take you to all the info.</a><br />
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Feel free to send any pics/info over of any grade, the lower the better, as the I/IV grades are what most climbers climb . And remember <a href="http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/winter.html">UKC log books</a> and the <a href="http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=601941">UKC Snowdonia thread</a> ( of which JOSS is doing a great job ) are all great sources of conditions in NW.<br />
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Get out there, swing them tools, get into the action and Enjoy.<br />
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3291305980784345245.post-53578459177106853882015-01-17T22:45:00.001+00:002015-01-17T23:01:58.903+00:00Well its the best we have had for nearly 2 years<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Firstly,
a warm welcome back to my followers, I know its been some time since my last
post, but the lure of the welsh winter scene is too compulsive when new routes
are being ticked. For those of you that are new to the blog, then it may not be
the font of all information it used to be, but I do hope it proves to be of
interest. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">So,
why this post? Well looking out of the window with the white stuff settling on
the ground and receiving another text of another new route, I was inspired to
get on the keyboard to share the information.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It crossed my mind in the last spell over Xmas but I managed
to resist, but not this time.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">With
the winter of 13-14 being a disaster then this season whilst not being a
belter so far, is a great improvement and climbers are managing to get out and
we have some new routes.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">So
does this mean the blog is back, I am afraid no, well not like it used to be,
but if I get info of any new routes then those will be highlighted.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">With
the forecast looking very good, then things should improve nicely, but we do
need more snow. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>So I hope you
manage to get out. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">So
where to start ?<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Why not with today</span></div>
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<i><b><span lang="EN-US" style="color: #262626; font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 15.0pt;">The Eigiau 'Out There'</span></b><span lang="EN-US" style="color: #262626; font-family: Arial;"> <b>*** Saturday 17th Jan 2014</b></span></i></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="color: #262626; font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 15.0pt;">This trip is
exactly that proper out there, and utterly brilliant, very steep, sustained, fairly
safe and in a wild position.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>(Rich
Stone and Andy Humphries)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><i><span lang="EN-US" style="color: #262626; font-family: Arial;">Steps through Space (IV,4)</span></i></b><span lang="EN-US" style="color: #262626; font-family: Arial;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="color: #262626; font-family: Arial;">Is a cracking line through steep ground down in mid Wales. Huw Gilbert and Dan ? ( Dec 29<sup>th</sup> 2014 ) Great find there lads.</span></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="color: #262626; font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 15.0pt;"><i>Tryfan East Face and Crib y Ddysgl - 27<sup>th</sup> and /28<sup>th</sup>
Dec 2014</i><o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="color: #262626; font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 15.0pt;">No stopping Mr.
Stone, in the last spell over xmas 2014 a few weeks back he managed to slot in
another 2 new routes making a tally of 3 so far this season. <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><o:p></o:p></b></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="color: #262626; font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 15.0pt;">On solo (V/5) on
terrace wall north tower and a variant on Gambit Climb help focus the mind for
this winter. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="color: #262626; font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 15.0pt;"><i>No report could fail to mention the
quite impressive and demanding first ascent of Wide</i><span style="mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;"><i> Asleep X 9 </i><o:p></o:p></span></span></b></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="color: #262626; font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 15.0pt; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;">This futuristic climb is another
superb, bold, technical and demanding offering form local base talent Pete
Harrision. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="color: #262626; font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 15.0pt; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;">From a personal view, I am so pleased
Pete never made it back to Canada where he was based for many years If so, then
North Wales in winter would be lacking quite a few futuristic climbs. Keep them
coming Pete.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="color: #262626; font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 15.0pt; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;">I remember one new route I held the ropes, whilst Pete inched
slowly upwards, in cool control. Climbing 40ms, with one runner up some insecure
corner I was blown away how much harder it was, than it had looked from the ground.
Not only this, but when I got to the section where Pete found himself hanging
off one arm on some techy torque when the patch of neve disappeared he was
standing on, I knew then he was in a different league of mine.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="color: #262626; font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 15.0pt;">Wide Asleep</span></b><span lang="EN-US" style="color: #262626; font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 15.0pt;"> gives a very hard route, <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>giving pumpy, insecure and bold climbing up the steep face
10m left of Cracking Up. Start at the base of a pillar below the centre of the
wall.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="color: #262626; font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 15.0pt;">30m 9 Climb to the top of the pillar. Traverse leftwards and up
below the bulging wall. Swing out rightwards onto the steep face, and then
climb the pumpy steep wall above on poor insecure hooks in a seam. Step right
at an overlap to reach a crack, and then follow this to a good belay on ledges.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="color: #262626; font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 15.0pt;">30m 6 Climb to the sloping terrace and continue directly above
up a crack-line that cuts through a couple of steep undercut steps.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="color: #262626; font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 15.0pt;">Pete Harrison, Ian Parnell 28.12.14. Onsight first ascent. No
pegs placed.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="color: #262626; font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 15.0pt;">If it holds the grade it'll be the first or second grade X on-sight
first ascent in the UK?<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="color: #262626; font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 15.0pt;"><br /></span>
<span lang="EN-US" style="color: #262626; font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 15.0pt;">Off on a slight tangent, but does highlight another example of what u do do with a few pointy pieces of steel</span><br />
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<span lang="EN-US" style="color: #262626; font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 15.0pt;"></span><br />
<div style="background-color: white; border: 0px; color: #333333; font-family: Georgia, 'Bitstream Charter', serif; font-size: 16px; line-height: 24px; margin-bottom: 24px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; background-position: initial initial; background-repeat: initial initial; border: 0px; color: black; font-family: Calibri; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">Nick, why do you want to go to the Tour Ronde, the Tour Ronde is for a Conville Course.” I had never attended a Conville Course, but if this is what they involved, it was obvious I had missed out – sign me up please.</span></div>
<div style="background-color: white; border: 0px; margin-bottom: 24px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">
<span style="color: #333333; font-family: Calibri;"><span style="line-height: 24px;">This gave me a personal smile and i suppose many of you will not get the point. However, not to worry, if your like me , unable to burn that enthusiasm off, then keeping in touch with Nick's </span></span>blog<span style="color: #333333; font-family: Calibri;"><span style="line-height: 24px;"> will either fully P!!!! you off or get you well motivated. It's now the latter.</span></span></div>
<div style="background-color: white; border: 0px; margin-bottom: 24px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">
<span style="color: #333333; font-family: Calibri;"><span style="line-height: 24px;">Interested </span></span><a href="http://nickbullock-climber.co.uk/">http://nickbullock-climber.co.uk</a><br />
<br />
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3291305980784345245.post-58406091431026058302014-03-01T22:06:00.005+00:002014-03-01T22:06:52.332+00:00Who would have thought it ! and is it frozen in the Cwm ?<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">After so much action over recent years, the pay back has certainly come this year. One extreme to the other.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Mind you, its only climbing after all, with so many people having been really affected by the weather in view of floods etc. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Check out this new initiative, which is really a great piece of work.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Need to know how cold it is in Idwal, is the ground frozen ? at what depth ? well the answers are all here. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">We really do need to consider our actions in particular in the Cwm.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">The info is found here :-</span><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"><a href="https://www.thebmc.co.uk/winter-climbing-and-conservation-in-wales--new-information-service" style="color: blue;">https://www.thebmc.co.uk/winter-climbing-and-conservation-in-wales--new-information-service</a></span></div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3291305980784345245.post-17827628159700034352013-12-05T20:43:00.002+00:002013-12-06T14:05:12.774+00:00The new season is upon us.<span style="font-size: large;">Hi and welcome back. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">My last post back in April does seem a long way off even though its only been 7 months. I had no idea when I embarked with the blog that time between seasons would become shorter.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">I also had no idea that the conditions we would encounter would provide such interesting and amazing climbing conditions, so many new new routes and provide so much energy in North Wales winter climbing.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">I do hope that this is the case this winter. If this proves to be, then we are in for some really new hard routes. The approach to training in view of new routing in N Wales, as ever, is on the move and hopefully those climbers will reap the benefits. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">I have to pass on a huge thanks to all those that have supported the blog, the thanks I have received off so many climbers and the way that climbers have used it to move Welsh winter climbing onto another level.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">It brings me to say, that the blog , as you know it, is to cease this season. Why ? you may ask when we could be on the brink of another great season. A very good question, the answer being the time it takes up and the mental energy it takes out of me. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">The success of the blog and its associated areas, means it takes over a lot of my mind in the winter months. Combine this with my own desire to get out, put new routes up, keep track of the all the action means I find it a constant pressure. Yes, self induced I admit and a pressure which I find extremely interesting, exciting and fulfilling However, after 6 or so years I need to ease off. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">That is the issue, easing off. Not something I am good at. So its all or nothing and I am afraid its going to be nothing this year. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">So I offer my apologises if you will miss the blog. However, I hope you all have a cracking winter here in North Wales. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">Finally, I thank Mountain Equipment and DMM for </span><span style="font-size: large;">their support. It has helped towards its success and help provide so much information. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">Maybe next year 2014-2015 I will be back.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">Cheers Baggy </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3291305980784345245.post-48948602166771859732013-04-14T19:43:00.001+01:002013-04-14T19:43:14.860+01:00Live The Dream-Last Post of the Season<br />I am afraid to say, that this will be my last winter post of the 12-13 season. I do hope the postings have been of use and I am sorry for the lack of posts / condition reports at various times.<div>
<br />This winter has certainly been a good one and many new routes have been climbed, the ice has come and stuck around and I am certain many of you have had some great days out.<br /> <br />The day after our ascent of Idwal Stream with Michael ( aged 12 - see a few blog posts earlier ) his dad decided to take him to have a wee celebration of Michael's first ice climb. They took a visit to Tremadog and have a brew at Eric's cafe. His dad was kind enough to treat him to a copy of Eric's Eiger Solo film, as this is a classic piece of filming and was such an achievement at the time ( and would be today ). In addition to this they brought a couple of post-cards. Just as they were leaving, Eric came in, so Michael asked Eric if he would not mind signing one of Michael's post-cards for him as Michael had just done his first ice climb. It was magic, Eric started asking Michael about the conditions on the Idwal Stream and if there was any water running under the ice. </div>
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The Eiger and Idwal Stream then shook hands with mutual respect.</div>
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Just about sums up what this game is about and what a great ending the young and more weathered climber meet .</div>
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<b>Michael pleased as punch in Erics cafe</b></div>
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<b>A range of pictures from the Idwal stream day.</b></div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3291305980784345245.post-73691453154500582002013-04-11T12:52:00.000+01:002013-04-11T14:13:40.548+01:00Filling in the Gaps under everyones nose<span class="Apple-style-span" style="border-collapse: separate; border-spacing: 0px; font-family: Arial;"></span><br />
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It might be thawing here in North Wales, but reports still keep coming in regards a variety of excellent new routes. Not many gaps left up here ( Grib Y Ddysgl ) but Gaz managed to claim the last few.</div>
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Some write ups below for some new routes up on Crib y Ddysgl</div>
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<b>Pope's Nose IV,5 * 75m</b></div>
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Varied climbing and something of interest on each pitch. Start below the snowy groove just right of Gargoyle Route and to the left of a small overhang.</div>
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Pitch 1, 25m: Steep initial moves lead into the snowy groove. Head up and right on easier ground to belay on the first rock encountered below the overhanging chimney.</div>
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Pitch 2, 20m: Turf and rock steps up and right lead to a snowy ledge below a shallow chimney. Interesting moves and spike belay on left at the top.</div>
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Pitch 3, 15m: Step back right and positive moves over the jammed boulders and spikes, ledge then up and right again until below a steep headwall. Easy traverse left to boulder belay.</div>
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Pitch 4, 15m: Climb the slab up and right until final moves lead onto the arete. </div>
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Gaz Davies and Will Oates 19/03/13</div>
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<b><br /></b></div>
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<b>Tick Tock Tick V,6 * 92m</b></div>
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A direct line up the crag. There are two grooves to the right of Three Cave Gully Start on the slightly more open second groove.</div>
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Pitch 1: 25m Follow the groove for a few moves, step left on the ledge and continue up the groove system. Belay on the ledge below a steep sweep of rock.</div>
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Pitch 2: 20m Step left and make some steep moves into the continuing groove line. Spaced gear but positive climbing leads to a ledge on the left and belay.</div>
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Pitch 3: 22m Step back right and follow a couple of steep steps until it flatens out onto easier ground.</div>
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Pitch 4: 25m Easy ground leads up to the remaining rock steps and Clogwyn y Person Arete. </div>
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Gaz Davies and Matthew Hawkins 18/03/13</div>
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Matt Hawkins on Tick Tock Tick</div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: 12pt;">Now for a even more rare posting. Due to recent conditions other areas have seen action </span><br />
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<b>Ffŵl Ebrill IV 4 180m</b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: 12pt;">Just a quick description, not too sure about the grades, neither me or Martin have much experience at the grade, definitely felt harder than III. Pitch 3 had two steep steps first vertical on snow for 2m, after snow for a bit second step of about 2-3m vertical climbing up 3 overhanging 'cauliflowers', easing to belay. Pitch 4 easy snow, ice near vertical up corner for 13m??, easing again to snow slopes above. A cracking day out, proper adventure, seeing as looking at it I thought probably about a II (possibly I, possibly III), I had a bit of a surprise coming over the steepness on pitch 3 to catch a glimpse of the steepness above. Pitch lengths also a bit of a guess based on recollections of rope used.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: 12pt;">Needs good hard snow, and well formed ice for the crux pitch, both rare commodities round these parts. It is situated directly west of the north summit of Moel Lefn, and south of craig Cwm Trwsgl. Start just left of a wall, immediately below the invitingly obvious gully, which cuts directly through an imposing buttress (about SH 548 487)<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<li class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 12pt; margin-bottom: 0.0001pt; margin-left: 0cm; margin-right: 0cm; margin-top: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: 12pt;">30m 1 From a tree belay continue in the line of the gully, rock belay on left before first steepening as gully walls become more defined.</span></span><span style="font-family: Calibri;"><o:p></o:p></span></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 12pt; margin-bottom: 0.0001pt; margin-left: 0cm; margin-right: 0cm; margin-top: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: 12pt;">25m 2 Follow the gully past two steepenings. Poor belay on obvious ledge below overhang to the left of the gully, before a steep step below the first deviation of the gully line to the right.</span></span><span style="font-family: Calibri;"><o:p></o:p></span></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 12pt; margin-bottom: 0.0001pt; margin-left: 0cm; margin-right: 0cm; margin-top: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: 12pt;">35m 3 Climb the steep step to snow slope above and follow line up to the right to a second steep step in the corner on the right, before the gully opens out again moving left. Rock belay on left as gully walls once again become more defined.</span></span><span style="font-family: Calibri;"><o:p></o:p></span></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 12pt; margin-bottom: 0.0001pt; margin-left: 0cm; margin-right: 0cm; margin-top: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: 12pt;">52m 4 Continue up easy snow slope to a corner. Tackle the steepness in the icy corner or possibly the rocky wall to the left. Eases to snow above, potential belays on rocks to the left.</span></span><span style="font-family: Calibri;"><o:p></o:p></span></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 12pt; margin-bottom: 0.0001pt; margin-left: 0cm; margin-right: 0cm; margin-top: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: 12pt;">40m 2 Move right, back to the continuing gully line, which again becomes defined for a short distance, before disappearing onto the easing slopes above with a drystone wall and fence on the right.</span></span><span style="font-family: Calibri;"><o:p></o:p></span></li>
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<span style="font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><b>Gerwyn Madoc Jones / Martin Bischoff - 2nd April 2013</b><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3291305980784345245.post-38140204484598347212013-04-06T16:59:00.000+01:002013-04-06T16:59:02.496+01:00Paradise right here in North Wales<br />
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One of my clients Al,
like many other climbers, has been keen to tick the 3 star classic Cascade (V)
for many years. Al is quite a handy ice climber, but a lack of recent time on
ice has meant this route is just out of his grasp to currently lead.</div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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With this in mind, and
that fact the route may not form for years to come (who knows?) This week we managed to combine, time
off work, conditions, and a slot for me to add this to our agenda. Considering it was an Easter holiday weekend day, the
forecast was excellent and it’s a route on many a climbers tick list I
suggested an early start.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Walking away from the
cars at 5.30am this morning with clear skies and a cool looking moon over Pen Y
Pass our spirits were lifted.
Arriving at the crag we found two other keen bunnies. Well done to them
for getting an even earlier start to us. They too were expecting the hoards.<o:p></o:p></div>
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The route proved to be
sporty for Grade V, in particular pitch 3 and the other pair of climbers worked
with us so that Al and I could progress up the route behind them without
getting bombarded with ice. This meant we did not have to wait to start the
route until they topped out. I for one, are not keen to climb behind others on
ice, nature of the beast, ice will be flying down. So thanks to those guys for being so polite and helpful. <o:p></o:p></div>
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Topping out into
blinding sun with the mountains giving an Alpine feel was a perfect end to a
classic climb. We decided that would do us for the day. Why not finish when to going is good.<o:p></o:p></div>
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However, back at the base of the crag the
temptation to do Central Icefall was there, but we decided that the amount of
water running off the climb might be tempting fate. <o:p></o:p></div>
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To our surprise we were the only 2 parties at the crag until the time we left and we did not see anyone walking that way on our way down. </div>
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The walk in this morning </h3>
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Al approaching two of the belays</div>
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The Early birds who beat us to the crag</h3>
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<!--EndFragment-->Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3291305980784345245.post-53379312499586102422013-04-04T19:11:00.001+01:002013-04-04T19:12:58.795+01:00Youth of todayToday was one of those days when I look back and think Wow, that was a top day. Being able to instruct and guide people on the mountains in winter is a real pleasure. I get the opportunity to see people develop as climbers and mountaineers and achieve lifetime goals.<br />
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However, today was a bit more special as Michael aged 12 was able to tick Idwal Stream (II) as his first ice route. Well actually it was his first winter climb. Not sure how many 12-year lads can say they have done that?<br />
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Accompanying him on this adventure was his dad Graham. I had taken Graham on a week’s winter climbing in Scotland a few years ago, so it was ideal to know I could focus most of my attention on his lad.<br />
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Michael climbed the route in real style, along the way taking an active part in belaying, tying on and sorting ropes out on the belay. We took a nice and steady approach to the day even having food and hot chocolate on one stance.<br />
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The full winter experience was had, a cold wind, ice, neve, soft snow, rock, hot aches, apprehension, excitement, fear and that sense of achievement once topping out.<br />
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Idwal has a variety of routes in good nick, others are quite lean and some are not in. Cannot really give you the low down of each route, as I have not climbed them and it’s hard to say from a distance.<br />
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3291305980784345245.post-88621100398385596712013-04-01T00:26:00.002+01:002013-04-01T00:59:17.027+01:00VIII-9 ? - To much temptation , So many new routes, So excited and a Twist to the StorryI knew it would happen, once back into the mix, doing the rounds on the phone the excitement is just to much. I promised myself I would not be back so soon, but how can I resist. With so many opportunities available to me and no time at all to climb, the easiest option was to turn the phone off. However, once I decided to leave the dam thing on, it was just a matter of time before the texts came winging my way.<br />
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Firstly, its been a good bumper week here in North Wales for new routes. Mr Panton, I am sure will fill you in on more of the details ( on the V12 news site this coming week ) However, seems Pete Harrison has great vision as he follows in my footsteps again and manages to finish off another of my attempted routes. Thing is this time, neither of us knew of each others plans/previous visits. <br />
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<strong>Big</strong> <strong>news </strong>are 2 new routes by my good friend Rich Stone up on Craig Dayffed. Having to turn down his offers of teaming up I managed to avoid the full on fight of Bladerunner. Having discussed this with Rich over the last 12 months and looked at the line I knew it would be a battle. A quick look through the new winter guide and one will see that Rich has been an active climber on and around the Black Ladders for some years and he is no stranger to adding his mark on the Welsh Winter Scene. I know Rich will be pleased with these routes and will be quite interested to see what the grades pan out to be. <br />
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<strong>Bladerunner VIII 9 ***110m (</strong> As Rich has stated - Grade will need verifying )<br />
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The pencil thin crack in the shallow V groove right of Samuel goes the full height of the huge block that forms an awesome wall. Ridiculously tenuous torques and layaways make this well fall-offable (7 falls over two seasons ) but strenuous to place good gear (small wires and blade pegs) render it a safe-ish, bullet hard test piece. Grade will need verifying. <br />
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Rich first tried this route back in Dec 2010 and took 4 falls, 2 from the lower part of the crack then 2 from the desperate last bit. Finally he got back on it this weekend after a period of indifferent climbing over the winter due to prolonged chronic fatigue syndrome. Through, logging, and stone-walling he got fit enough over the last month and just in time. The route felt desperate and still took a further fall from the lower section followed by 2 from the upper before success. Its the hardest thing either Rich or Andy have done by quite a fair margin and thus Rich states is at the limit of my experience for grading, so it would be good to see what subsequent assentionist make of it. <br />
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P1. 50m 5 As for Samuel up steep turf steps to the ledge just left of the tooth / pillar.<br />
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P2. 35m 9 Above is the soaring crackline in the shallow groove. Initially scary pulls on thin turf lead to the crack. What follows is a relentless series of powerful but tenuous torques and layaways, passing a small overlap on its left then fighting on up the crack to a piss poor rest at a turf blob below a blackened slit. Pull past this to the obscenely thin continuation of the crack. A mighty heave and deft footwork (monopoints a must) followed by a landed fish flop and soiled trousers get you - sometimes - onto the decent turf ledge. Belay at the back.<br />
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P3. 25m 6 A brief but feisty struggle up the corner followed by a couple more big rock / turf steps which lead to The Trident shelf.<br />
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FA Richard Stone & Andy Humpheries 30-3-2013<br />
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After a bit of a session on the ale celebrating our days achievement Andy was dead to the world Sunday morning so I headed off alone up towards the ladders hoping to make the most of a beautiful day. Half way up the valley got a text saying 'wait for me,' from Andy- the Easter Resurrection. After catching up we headed up the cwm, solid 2 all the way up it was so banked out with neve and ice steps looking for the cracked arete that we vaguely remembered spotting back in 2010 and hence the resurrection was made manifest, a truly first rate climb and a clean ground up on sight flash. Mind you the last 2 days have took there toll a lingering sore wrist has developed into nasty ligament strain and tendonitis.<br />
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<strong>Easter Resurrection VII 7 ***110m</strong><br />
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The arete to the left of the start of The Capstone Heelhook gives an awesome and quality outing with decent protection. Steep turf grooves followed by the mother of torquing cracks on the apex of the arete lead to a difficult V groove. <strong>Note </strong>: Capstone Heelhook V-7 by G Davies and Baggy 2011 has since changed due to a large rockfall in summer of 2012.<br />
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P1. 40m 5 Start 10m left of the bottom of capstone heelhook, below a turfy buttress that leads to an obvious arete with a crack in it. Go up the surprisingly fierce turf V grooves until there is a large spike belay on the arete where the turf ends.<br />
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P2. 40m 7 Directly above the stance a pristine torquing crack leads up the arete to a V groove above. Enter this with difficulty and fight on up using the crack at the back of the grove and a thin crack on the right wall to reach turf ledges on the blocky arete.<br />
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P3. 30m 4 A couple of steep pulls between ledges lead to easier ground and the finish of The Capstone Heelhook.<br />
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FA Richard Stone & Andy Humpheries 31-3-2013. <br />
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Not ending here, back to this Pete Harrison story. I get a text this evening off Pete, saying that he had just done a cracking new winter route, one of the best he has done this season. Its <strong>Adam Rib ( HS 4A )</strong> and reckons <strong>VI-7 maybe VII-7.</strong> Pete's enthusiasm oozes out on this text and I had to call him back.<br />
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Pete, I really feel mean saying this but did you come across the tat about 10m from the top of the route. yes was the reply, we wondered about that. Well the thing is Pete, I climbed that route with Stu Stanley back on Jan 19th of this year, cracking route and we thought a classic. Well I say route, I backed off 10m from the top, due to very loose rock on the original finish and an alternative finish which looked loose and needed large gear, which we had failed to bring.<br />
We had a good laugh about this and Pete was like no way, that is so weird we both thought about this climb. Asking me why I had never mentioned this, I replied well the plan was to go and finish it off. <br />
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So 3 major new routes in two days, a variety of major new routes last week, Caff ( James ) doing the Pass Challenge. What is that you ask ? Ah just 3 routes in the pass in one day ? Easy you might say, well when Neil Dwyer tried it, climbing Right Wall brushing the snow of the ledges was a tad hard even for Neil. I will let you find out more. Then Mr Emmett making a guest appearance and doing a torchlight Trio. <br />
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Phew what a week, I am so glad I have not been blogging all week, to much to keep up with, where will it end, no sign as yet. <br />
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Keep on cranking boys and girls and remember no day out in the Welsh Hills is complete without that lovely Welsh Winter Climbs guide by Ground UP in your pack.<br />
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3291305980784345245.post-5554081443914726122013-03-30T11:05:00.001+00:002013-04-01T00:37:41.286+01:00Briefly Back and West Face Tryfan News<!--StartFragment--><br />
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It does seem slight strange writing this post, as conditions have been very good at times over the last 2 months and there has been a steady flow of new routes and I have been offline. It was good to see Pete Harrison bagging Grey Ghost VI-6. When Toby Keep and I had first tried this line the slab had no ice and corner stopped us as it was to hard. I had mentioned to Pete some years ago, if he was ever up in that area to get the top corner climbed. Well he and Rob Pitt managed to do one better they climbed the slab out left, very nice tick.</div>
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With recent conditions looking promising, after the last few seasons this winter is certainly living up to being one to remember with this late spell of climbing. Again, this shows that North Wales still has a lot to offer and there are plenty of keen bunnies out there. Si Panton has been doing a good job on the V12 blog keeping us upto date with a variety of new lines being added to the Welsh Scene.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Hearing all the reports, looking at so many photos of quality climbing and speaking to so many climbers over the last few months it was hard to resist updating the blog nearly every day. Regular users of the blog will be aware I went off line back in January. This was for a variety of reasons and I thank all the people who have let me know it has been missed. I am afraid to say, this post is not a re-start of the blog on a daily basis. <o:p></o:p></div>
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My own climbing has been a real mixed bag, getting in new routes, failing on new routes, ticking some classics, failing on winter ascents of rock routes and even failing on the odd classic. <o:p></o:p></div>
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This last week once the snow and winds had died down, I reckon there would have been quite a few climbers trying to decide what to do? Avoid the crowds, take into account all this snow (none of which has not gone through a good freeze thaw cycle) not wishing for a wade fest and the ice not all being in great nick. One things for sure, the ground was well frozen before all this snow fell. <o:p></o:p></div>
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With these thoughts in mind I ventured out onto the West Face of Tryfan. I had last been up there in Feb 2011 with Glyn Callund, where we did the first winter ascent of Flat Iron Ridge ( VD ) . This gave a nice steady route at IV-4. I was keen to go back up and explore some of the other routes up there and try some first winter ascents. This area is never going to give stellar routes but it has a lot going for it. Short approach, away from the crowds, easier grades and a mixture and climbing/mountaineering pitches.<o:p></o:p></div>
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I hooked up with one of my new route partners, Gaz Davies, who I had not climbed with for over year. He was not feeling that well and I was dealing with an injury so another good reason for our chosen venue. <o:p></o:p></div>
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First off we looked at Columbyne (VD) Approaching this direct (this is not shown in the new Ogwen guide) via mixed heather, grass and rock gave a mixture of short steps and a few spicy moments, as we still had the ropes on our back III. We took a new line on the top pitch climbing between the top pitch of Columbyne and Pierrot. IV-5. From here we traversed over and above the Wrinkled Slab Buttress and then dropped down the gully to the right of this. <o:p></o:p></div>
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We then choose Jamie’s Route (S) Taking a new line approx just to the left of pitch one as described in the guide, gave what winter mixed climbing is all about. Great hooks, great kit, cracking moves, steep but not overhanging techy climbing. 3 stars, but only 10ms long. Grade ? found on a more sustained route it would be at least hard V, but it is a short a pitch, so IV-6 is more appropriate. This was followed by 100ms of varied grade III climbing over rocky steps, slabs and chimneys. By this time the sun was out on the ridge and it felt like we were in the Alps.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Like all of us, I hope this snow has chance to change to neve and hangs around for some time. This will give some cracking climbing conditions. My thoughts are we have new routes on the way. With so much snow, there just has to be lots of thoughts out there by potential explorers. <o:p></o:p><br />
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Cwm Lloer has seen many repeats of established routes. The classic snow routes of N Wales I believe are going to give hard work, unless some kind person has put all the steps in. The ice seems a mixture of good, poor and thin. There is ice where there is often just blank rock and many classic ice routes are not in nick/in poor nick. </div>
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I hope all of you got some winter action in over Easter if you were in North Wales. With such fine weather just being out in hills walking or climbing should give a few days to remember. <o:p></o:p></div>
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Finally take care, there is a lot of difference snow conditions around, it’s so easy to slip, slide or fall into a hole, take it easy and stay switched on. <o:p></o:p></div>
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Photos - before the battery ran out !!!!!!<o:p></o:p></div>
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Gaz – Powering up grade 2 ground on West Face Tryfan<o:p></o:p><br />
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<b>Simon and I looking a lot more relaxed than at the beginning of our lecture </b></h3>
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<b>Just look at all that ice !!</b></h3>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3291305980784345245.post-53389018586662441862013-01-23T21:47:00.001+00:002013-01-24T08:18:01.792+00:00Hi All<br />
<br />
We are in the mix again here in North Wales and have been since early last week. Conditions have been very good in a variety of places and look like to improve. Its the best period for a few years.<br />
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There have been new ascents, major 2nd ascents and ascents of some timely classics within the last week.<br />
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I have had many pictures and updates over the last week and my thanks goes to all those who have taken the time to send that info over to me. I do apologise for not making really good use of this, <a href="http://davegarry.blogspot.co.uk/">but I must mention Dave Gary's repeat of Pete Harrisons new grade 10. Wow !! good effort.</a><a href="http://davegarry.blogspot.co.uk/"> full details on Daves Blog</a><br />
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I will do an end of season update, so please do keep sending info etc on new routes and second ascents<br />
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Last Thursday, Simon Panton and I delivered a lecture in Liverpool talking about the development of North Wales Winter climbing in recent years and highlighted a lot of the key players. Apparently, Simon and I did an excellent job, well thats what we got told, maybe they were just being nice !!! so our thanks goes to all of your who made the effort to attended and support the lecture.<br />
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I am sorry to say that this post is the last blog post for this winter.<br />
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I Hope the conditions stay and that you all manage to get some great climbing in.<br />
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As I mentioned before, I will do an end of season update, so please do keep sending info etc on new routes and second ascents. Thanks again for all of you that support and use the blog. Sorry the blog will not going whilst we actually have a decent winter this year.<br />
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Best Wishes and keep cranking on those axes<br />
<br />
Baggy<br />
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3291305980784345245.post-53038159045704028632013-01-16T18:04:00.002+00:002013-01-17T13:30:57.685+00:00Biggest News for years -Lateo X-10I am able to give you further info on the new route that got done on Tuesday. <br />
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It came form Pete Harrison, who many of you will know has added some quality and hard routes to the Welsh winter scene over recent years, including Wale's first grade X-10 some time back. Well now he delivers another X-10<br />
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Thanks for Pete for sharing the info, as he had to be pushed, as he very modest with his achievements. I just felt it was such an outstanding route and contribution then it would be a real shame not to share it. With this in mind, this post is factual without any glam attached.<br />
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Pete is also keen to ensure the style of ascent is recorded.<br />
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Text below from Pete<br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="border-collapse: separate; border-spacing: 0px; font-family: Arial;">The route took seven days spread over 3 winters. One of the main issues with the route was getting it into proper condition .i.e being properly rimed up.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="border-collapse: separate; border-spacing: 0px; font-family: Arial;">On the first attempt yesterday I fell above the lip of the roof and, not being in the fittest condition, thought I'd blown any chance of doing it that day. Tom had a go and fell from the lip. After an hours rest I went again powered up with Rhubarb and Custards and this time hung on and kept it together. We climbed ground-up with no pre-inspection. On the second pitch Tom slipped barely 2 metres out from the belay, lowered down and went again only to slip at the same spot. He climbed the second pitch clean from there. He could have lowered the fully 2m to the belay to start again, but it doesn't make any difference to the difficulty. He still did all the difficult climbing on that pitch clean.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="border-collapse: separate; border-spacing: 0px; font-family: Arial;">Couple of other things - in terms of difficulty I think it's solid at the grade. However, I can only compare to other routes I've climbed or attempted. </span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="border-collapse: separate; border-spacing: 0px; font-family: Arial;">Lateo X 10 *** 85m</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="border-collapse: separate; border-spacing: 0px; font-family: Arial;"><br />An independent winter-only line tackling the compelling 'come-and-climb' me crack leading directly to and out of the sentry box belay of Stratosphere (E3), before joining Travesty at that route's mid-height steepening. The first pitch blasts directly up through the steepest part of the cliff giving a brilliant strength-draining pitch. The second pitch is more technical and no pushover. A route of the highest quality, solid at the grade.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="border-collapse: separate; border-spacing: 0px; font-family: Arial;"><br />22m 10 Climb turfy ledges and a corner until below the roof. Arrange gear and move across rightwards to a ledge at the top of the rock fin. A stein-pull gains the lip of the bulge/roof where things quickly turn difficult. Make hard moves leftwards along the lip to reach a vertical crack which is followed to a belay in the sentry box. Sustained.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="border-collapse: separate; border-spacing: 0px; font-family: Arial;"><br />43m 7 The diagonal crack which leads out leftwards from the top of the sentry box isn't as easy as it looks. Join Travesty just below the mid-height chimney and climb this and the gully above to a belay below the final steep wall.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="border-collapse: separate; border-spacing: 0px; font-family: Arial;"><br />20m 5 The steep final wall of Travesty.<br />Pete Harrison, Tom Livingstone 15.1.13</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">Photo by T Livingston</span><br />
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Photo by Rob Pitt<br />
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Topo showing the line. ( Topo by Pete Harrison )<br />
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3291305980784345245.post-64651331555515135752013-01-16T17:22:00.003+00:002013-01-16T22:18:00.617+00:00MINTHave been out on the hill today and conditions for rocky mixed climbing are mint, actually perfect. In addition to this, there will be plenty of turfy/rocky mixed routes in perfect nick also.<br />
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Today<br />
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Good covering of dry rime, which is easy to brush off.<br />
Dry cracks<br />
Solid turf<br />
Nothing covered in vast amounts of snow<br />
No snow ploughs to get to routes<br />
Nice and cold<br />
Freezing level at 200-300 ms<br />
Top that with no wind today<br />
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Will get some pics and more info on later, just got back off hill. See how kind I am !!!<br />
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Also, if your in the Liverpool area this Thursday evening then you might decide to come and have a listen to Simon and I talking about Welsh Winter Climbing<br />
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<a href="http://news.v12outdoor.com/2013/01/14/north-wales-winter-climbing-lecture-at-liverpool-john-moores-university/">Check out for details</a><br />
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Arch Gully on Glyder Fach was done in great nick and people reported great winter sport on Bristley Ridge , see Dodie Palmer in photo below.<br />
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Few pics for today<br />
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Craig Daffyd and Black Ladders<br />
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3291305980784345245.post-42405695801844010782013-01-15T20:22:00.002+00:002013-01-15T22:11:00.456+00:00Oh its big news<h4>
More details to follow, but today a major new route was put up and its a beauty and its hard. A fantastic effort</h4>
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<br />On top of that, its been a cracking day and now that we have some good weather we can see that conditions for mixed are very good higher up.</h4>
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For a summary of conditions you might as well go to here, l<a href="http://news.v12outdoor.com/gallery/">et the fun begin, hip hip hooray</a>. </h4>
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<br />Its come back for the mixed action and building for the rest.</h4>
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3291305980784345245.post-7128230043372257222013-01-14T18:57:00.001+00:002013-01-14T18:57:19.517+00:00This morning it was warmer than they had forecasted. It was one of those damp, cloudy days and the snow level had risen to about 700m. Even then it did not look like there was a good covering. The crags at around 700-800m in Ogwen were black, to cloudy to see higher up. But for example, Tryfan was bare.<br />
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I took a few snaps of Ogwen this afternoon, but an hour later it started to rain and hail at sea level. So those pics are out of date. We will have to wait and see what the morning brings. But it is a good sign and the warmer temps this morning will have helped soften Sunday's snow up, ready for it to freeze.<br />
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3291305980784345245.post-24202282976076789512013-01-13T16:10:00.002+00:002013-01-13T16:10:16.174+00:00Snow is fallingThis afternoon the snow decided to show its face. We had flurries down at 100m but that did not stick. However, what I can see of the hills from my house, the lower 200-600m is they look a lot more white than this morning.<br />
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I would think higher up, the ground will have more snow cover. This will hopefully mean that the mixed routes should hopefully be worth looking at.<br />
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3291305980784345245.post-13077598730293306002013-01-12T19:08:00.002+00:002013-01-12T19:10:07.126+00:00Shaping up nicelyWith cold temps for the last few days , a clear sky this evening and cold weather forecast for Sunday, this has given the ground time to freeze before any snow comes are way. Hopefully this will happen Sunday eve/Monday.<br />
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No snow on the hills today, all very green.<br />
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3291305980784345245.post-62115853016147341782013-01-12T15:19:00.001+00:002013-01-12T15:19:32.139+00:00No snow on the hills today, all very green.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3291305980784345245.post-81319393879825471982013-01-11T18:38:00.000+00:002013-01-11T18:38:07.851+00:00Friday 11th janIt has been a cracking day here, but no snow has arrived ( 6.00 pm )<br />
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Reports from the tops is that the ground is not really that frozen, often boggy and soft in many places.<br />
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However, verglass around<br />
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Might get snow overnight and it looks cold for a few daysUnknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3291305980784345245.post-48699582410356316712013-01-10T23:25:00.000+00:002013-01-10T23:25:25.840+00:00Could this be the beginning ?Is this the beginning of the next spell of winter. It does look some what promising looking at the forecasts.<br />
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Time will tell.<br />
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Time to get that winter kit sorted.<br />
<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3291305980784345245.post-51826727135665629482013-01-06T16:15:00.002+00:002013-01-06T16:15:29.640+00:00Mountain Equipment Randonne Glove<div style="text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Well, this weather is certainly not
what we wished for or what the long term forecast was suggesting back in the Autumn.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Quite frustrating that it’s often wet
and windy on top of no climbing conditions.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">I keep on seeing the same familiar
faces at the climbing wall and out on the bike. There should be a few fit folk
out there if winter does come back. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">In the meantime I will take this
opportunity to highlight a product that I have been using for the last 6 years
or so. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">The</b> <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Mountain Equipment
Randonee Glove. </b>First time on this blog for a product placement.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Climbers and walkers can spend much
time hunting out the best glove for the job in hand ! One thing to remember is
that no one glove does everything. However, I personally feel that this glove
comes close, as I have found it to be a great for climbing, walking,
mountaineering and skiing. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">To back this up, it is the only
glove I have worn since I first got my hands on a pair all those years ago. I
have used them to climb ice, mixed and turf, skiing, whilst winter
mountaineering and while working in cold and snowy conditions. They have been
used In the Alps, Scotland, Wales and Alaska. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">They are not perfect, but what is. I
am after a glove, which is snug fitting, I am able to climb in them without my
hands freezing within minutes, are dexterous, do not have all that spare room
at the finger ends and have some good warmth properties when damp and wet. I tend to only use gortex gloves when its going to be wet, as I feel, gortex gloves are offer less dexterity than these, and the gortex is not long lasting. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">The key to this gloves success is firstly, the snug fitting and secondly that good old material fibre pile. How many
modern gloves use fibre pile as a liner. Well they should, this liner is well
suited to climbing as once its wet/damp it still retains lots of warmth
compared to other material often used to line glove. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>If it gets really wet then just wring them out.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">The only possible downside to these
gloves is that they are not quite long enough for everyone’s tastes.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I use mine with a thermal that has
thumb loops, before that my fleece jumper/jackets had thumb loops that I used.
By using thumb loops then that keeps your wrist area covered which in actual
fact is very important in keeping those fingers warm. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Or use some wrist warmers? Not seen these,
then there is a picture below<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 19px;">They
are not going to keep your hands as warm as some big chunky glove, but they are
not designed for this. However, they will do a very good job at keeping your
hands a lot warmer than you may think. Many gloves have poor linings offering
very little warmth if you get them damp or are not moving.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 19px;">The
palms and fingers actually take quite a bashing, mine have been used on many a
mixed and turfy route and hold up well.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>You will get the obvious signs of wear on fingertips if they are used to
scrape / rub snow off rock looking for gear placements. Even then applying basic
glue will do the job when they start showing signs of wear.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 19px;">So
that is my take on these gloves. I am happy to say even if you buy a pair of
these and they are not what you really wish for as a winter climbing glove, you
will not have wasted your pennies. They will be a very useful glove to have on the
hill. That I am certain of.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 19px;">If
deciding to buy some try and get them so they feel snug, even a little to small
feeling as the fibre pile will mould around your fingers and hand and will give
you a really good fit.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"><o:p> </o:p></span><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">What do
the reviews have to say ?</span></b></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Exceptionally
warm and water-resistant soft-shell glove.<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">There is hardly an environment or situation where these gloves do not
excel</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;"> <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">This is a super warm version of something like Terra Nova's Guide Glove
or Rab's Baltoro and easily warm enough for winter climbing in Scotland, Wales,
Alps and even Alaska. It’s also great for skiing and winter mountaineering.
Although not fully waterproof, its tough and water resistant outer will keep
damp snow and melt water at bay, and it can be wrung dry in horrendous
conditions and should keep on working when your climbing partner has donned
their spare emergency pair.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Schoeller® Dry Skin® Extreme with 3xDry finish is water resistant,
exceptionally breathable and hard-wearing. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Pittards® Amortan Goatskin leather palm. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Fibre pile lining throughout is warm even when damp and quick to dry. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 12.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-align: justify; text-autospace: none;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Shorter sports style cuff fits easily under outer layers. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Precurved, anatomic construction with roll-tip fingers for a precise and
comfortable fit. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Soft nose wipe area on upper thumb. Hypalon® reinforce velcro cuff
closure.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">RAPIDLY
BECOMING THE MODERN GLOVE OF CHOICE FOR COLD WEATHER MOUNTAINEERING, CLIMBING
AND SKI WORK<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">I just cannot get enough of these. </span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">The red ones are 4 years old.</span></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-JMW-98OFjvc/UOcxHhzxsuI/AAAAAAAABf8/fq455FbF3gw/s1600/Gloves+1mixture+.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-JMW-98OFjvc/UOcxHhzxsuI/AAAAAAAABf8/fq455FbF3gw/s400/Gloves+1mixture+.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Showing the two types of palms available</span></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Mj-ZX8AqGOw/UOcxH9HNleI/AAAAAAAABgA/dAJb45-jTXQ/s1600/gloves+diff+palms.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Mj-ZX8AqGOw/UOcxH9HNleI/AAAAAAAABgA/dAJb45-jTXQ/s400/gloves+diff+palms.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">The fibre pile ( warm ) liner and you will be amazed at how such a good fit and deterous they are if they suit your hands. These are not as bulky as they look in the photo.</span><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-giNt1F3Sq-s/UOcxKxdIY9I/AAAAAAAABgU/FHMhzaZO7CE/s1600/gloves+inside+.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-giNt1F3Sq-s/UOcxKxdIY9I/AAAAAAAABgU/FHMhzaZO7CE/s640/gloves+inside+.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-M61x3NtqQoA/UOcxJNLh5tI/AAAAAAAABgM/Qa4VhJAubWw/s1600/gloves+in+use.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-M61x3NtqQoA/UOcxJNLh5tI/AAAAAAAABgM/Qa4VhJAubWw/s640/gloves+in+use.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">In use and before those pesky leashes went to the scrap box. </span></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">The picture below shows the only possible fault I can find with them. If your jacket is short in the sleeves and your thermal/jumper/jacket is not long enough you can get a gap on your wrist. However, sort this out and they are fantastic gloves. </span></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">The positive side to this, is you do not have a big cuff on the glove to deal with and no bungee cord as a velcro strap closes them. So that is another positive point of these gloves. It makes them less bulky and less restrictive.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vlEjJ-Fa7Nw/UOcxcSo2tEI/AAAAAAAABgc/fC40dwk91vM/s1600/gloves+in+use+2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vlEjJ-Fa7Nw/UOcxcSo2tEI/AAAAAAAABgc/fC40dwk91vM/s640/gloves+in+use+2.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
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<br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Talking of keeping the wrists warm and hence helping out the fingers staying warm. Have you ever tried wrist warmers ? They are tops and make a big difference.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">These are a picture of the ones I used before using a thermal / fleece jacket with thumb loops.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-WWG0DiXo8TI/UOmitG-o0ZI/AAAAAAAABg0/yfJ-Ju8ITkA/s1600/P1060017.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-WWG0DiXo8TI/UOmitG-o0ZI/AAAAAAAABg0/yfJ-Ju8ITkA/s400/P1060017.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3291305980784345245.post-33509129165544175702012-12-29T21:47:00.003+00:002012-12-29T22:32:39.738+00:00Plenty of Time to Prepare<br />
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Well I do hope you all had a good Xmas and you all had lots of goodies you asked for !</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jK5n0I1IxWE/UN9hmpcEaEI/AAAAAAAABe0/upceqxVWYU4/s1600/grotto.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jK5n0I1IxWE/UN9hmpcEaEI/AAAAAAAABe0/upceqxVWYU4/s400/grotto.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<br />
The weather here as been grim, mainly wet and windy for most of the Xmas period. Winter climbing is just a distant memory. This means trips to the climbing wall, other training and generally trying to maintain some momentum.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-XItGtH2-UuE/UN9vePw-9tI/AAAAAAAABfk/m6qDIvaDyvo/s1600/dry+tool.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-XItGtH2-UuE/UN9vePw-9tI/AAAAAAAABfk/m6qDIvaDyvo/s400/dry+tool.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8r1hBs84h34/UN9pWyjk1oI/AAAAAAAABfM/uFcoQy-tX8c/s1600/ljmu_logo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8r1hBs84h34/UN9pWyjk1oI/AAAAAAAABfM/uFcoQy-tX8c/s400/ljmu_logo.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<br />
This lull is giving me time to sort out and prepare for a lecture I am giving alongside Simon Panton - my co-editor of the North Wales Winter Climbing guide. The lecture is on Thursday 17th January at the Liverpool John Moores University Art and Design Academy in Liverpool. This is part of a series of lectures to promote adventure and is being arranged by the Liverpool John Moores University Outdoor Education department.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://ljmu.ac.uk/ECL/123107.htm">LJMU have been running one of the most prestigious outdoor education degree courses in the UK for over 40 years.</a><br />
<br />
The lecture is free , as part of the ethos for the series , with the whole series of lectures being sponsored by Cotswolds, with this particular lecture <u> </u><b>being supported by DMM and Mountain Equipment. </b>Limited places are available so to ensure you gain entry then free tickets can be <a href="http://ljmuoutdooradventure.eventbrite.com/" style="font-weight: bold;">obtained by following this link </a><b><span style="color: rgb(0.000000%, 0.000000%, 100.000000%); font-family: 'Calibri'; font-size: 14.000000pt;"><a href="http://ljmuoutdooradventure.eventbrite.com/">http://ljmuoutdooradventure.eventbrite.com/ </a> </span></b><br />
<b><span style="color: rgb(0.000000%, 0.000000%, 100.000000%); font-family: 'Calibri'; font-size: 14.000000pt;"><br /></span></b>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;">Having recently given lectures for a variety of mountaineering clubs back in December about a trip to Alaska , they reminded me how hard these types of events are. So I look forward to this event for some trepidation. So if you think you can face Simon and I chatter on then come along to support the event. </span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<b><span style="color: rgb(0.000000%, 0.000000%, 100.000000%); font-family: 'Calibri'; font-size: 14.000000pt;"><br /></span></b>
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<b><span style="color: rgb(0.000000%, 0.000000%, 100.000000%); font-family: 'Calibri'; font-size: 14.000000pt;"> </span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><strong><span style="font-size: small;">Snow, Ice and Adventure in the Welsh Hills: Tales from the frontline of North Wales </span><span style="font-size: small;">Winter</span><span style="font-size: small;"> Climbing</span></strong></span></div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; line-height: 20px;"></span><br />
<div style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; padding-bottom: 8px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;">
<b><br /></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">by Mark 'Baggy' Richards and Simon Panton (authors of the new 2011 North Wales Winter Climbing Guide)</span></div>
<div style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; padding-bottom: 8px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;">
What are the tales behind the extraordinary wave of winter climbing activity and renewed focus on undocumented winter climbing routes in North Wales?</div>
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North Wales has some of the best winter climbing in the UK. Recent years have been superb winter conditions in Snowdonia leading to an extraordinary wave of winter climbing activity, triggering an explosion of new routes and a renewed focus on the many undocumented routes climbed since the Welsh Winter Climbs guidebook (1988). The authors of the new guidebook North Wales Winter Climbing Guide, Simon Panton and Mark 'Baggy' Richards (Alumni of LJMU) will tell the story of winter climbing developments in Northern Snowdonia over recent years. This will give insider views on the adventures that underpin this new winter guidebook and they will offer personal tales of previously undocumented routes in the area.<br />
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<span style="color: blue; font-family: 'Gill Sans MT,Bold'; font-size: 22.000000pt;">Outdoor Education at LJMU has been inspiring the value and application of
outdoor adventure in society for over 40 years
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: 'Gill Sans MT,Bold'; font-size: 14.000000pt;">LJMU’s Outdoor Adventure Public Lecture </span><span style="font-family: 'Gill Sans MT,Bold'; font-size: 14.000000pt;">Series </span><span style="font-family: 'Gill Sans MT'; font-size: 14.000000pt;">hosted by the </span><span style="font-family: 'Gill Sans MT,Bold'; font-size: 14.000000pt;">Centre for Sport, Dance and Outdoor Education </span><span style="font-family: 'Gill Sans MT'; font-size: 14.000000pt;">aims to
provide a forum for sharing stories and journeys of outdoor adventure, whilst instilling the spirit of outdoor adventure within local and
wider communities. LJMU has trained thousands of outdoor educators to promote a spirit of adventure and maximise the benefits of being
outdoors across a whole range of individuals, groups, and communities. LJMU leads international research into the benefits and practices of
outdoor adventure, outdoor education, and outdoor leadership, and is committed to making a difference through outdoor learning practices.
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<span style="color: blue; font-family: 'Gill Sans MT,BoldItalic'; font-size: 16.000000pt;">This free lecture series </span></div>
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<span style="color: blue; font-family: 'Gill Sans MT,BoldItalic'; font-size: 16.000000pt;">embraces and celebrates the spirit of adventure within us all </span></div>
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