Saturday, 8 January 2011
The waiting is finally over
Today the North Wales Winter Climbing Guide ( Interim ) went on sale in V12.
With a good stream of climbers turning up to buy the guide and the main team of contributors gathering to welcome the guide onto the shelves, a good morning was had at V12.
It must be noted, that this guide is the work of a variety of climbers, many local, who have supported this project. Without their work, the guide would not be as up to date and as interesting.
Tim Neill, Streaky Desroy, Chris Parkin, Rich Stone, Owen Hayward and Geoff Bennett are the main group that have given their time. However, there happens to be quite a list of others who have helped out in some form.
Simon and I would like to thank you all for your help and we all hope that any one getting hold of a guide finds it a valuable and welcome addition to their collection.
With a good stream of climbers turning up to buy the guide and the main team of contributors gathering to welcome the guide onto the shelves, a good morning was had at V12.
It must be noted, that this guide is the work of a variety of climbers, many local, who have supported this project. Without their work, the guide would not be as up to date and as interesting.
Tim Neill, Streaky Desroy, Chris Parkin, Rich Stone, Owen Hayward and Geoff Bennett are the main group that have given their time. However, there happens to be quite a list of others who have helped out in some form.
Simon and I would like to thank you all for your help and we all hope that any one getting hold of a guide finds it a valuable and welcome addition to their collection.
The scene in the V12 cafe this morning just after the guide arrived. Left to right: Jon Ratcliffe, Mark 'Baggy' Richards (guide author), Rhys Huws, Streaky Desroy, Nick Bullock, Keith Ball, Donald King, Tim Neill and daughter Photo: Si Panton
Tim Jepson reports from Friday :
It's still winter up there!
Despite a miserable forecast, there was no wind on Glyder Fach today and climbing conditions on Arch Gully were excellent. What a wonderful route! Great moves, safe stances, even better protection and ab back down to the sacs for lunch. No complaints!
Photo: Dave Williams smiling his way up the final moves of Arch Gully
Tim Jepson reports from Friday :
It's still winter up there!
Despite a miserable forecast, there was no wind on Glyder Fach today and climbing conditions on Arch Gully were excellent. What a wonderful route! Great moves, safe stances, even better protection and ab back down to the sacs for lunch. No complaints!
Photo: Dave Williams smiling his way up the final moves of Arch Gully
Friday, 7 January 2011
Lots Going On and the guide has arrived
The forecasts were all over the place on Thurs eve. However, the met one this morning, seemed to ring true. Windy, light snow for some time then warming up in the afternoon.
I went to the Black Ladders today. Alistair came along for his first real expereince of mixed climbing, alongside visiting the Black Ladders for the fist time. I decided on Gallipoli V-5, as it has got 5 proper pitches giving a good mix of interest, its a classic and its in Cold Climb.
Turf was bomber and the crux lacking any neve or ice gave added interest.
Alistair top of P 3
Other teams were on Hedd Wyn, Tora Bora, Jacobs Ladder with another team on Gallipoli. There might have been others but with low cloud it was hard to see.
Hi Baggy
Went up trinity face, bit windy at times but had a great time on Central and R/H
Cheers Katherine
Sat Sun and Monday look ok, bit blowy but not to warm.
Tim Neill, Chris Parkin and Nick Bullock made another raid and grabbed another objective that had been climbers minds for since last winter, see link
Finally IT IS HERE
The long awaited North Wales Winter Climbs will be in V12 this Saturday.
Pre order you copy here if you cannot get in V12 shop. Be one of the first to get your hands on copy and use it
I went to the Black Ladders today. Alistair came along for his first real expereince of mixed climbing, alongside visiting the Black Ladders for the fist time. I decided on Gallipoli V-5, as it has got 5 proper pitches giving a good mix of interest, its a classic and its in Cold Climb.
Turf was bomber and the crux lacking any neve or ice gave added interest.
Alistair top of P 3
Other teams were on Hedd Wyn, Tora Bora, Jacobs Ladder with another team on Gallipoli. There might have been others but with low cloud it was hard to see.
Hi Baggy
Went up trinity face, bit windy at times but had a great time on Central and R/H
Cheers Katherine
Sat Sun and Monday look ok, bit blowy but not to warm.
Tim Neill, Chris Parkin and Nick Bullock made another raid and grabbed another objective that had been climbers minds for since last winter, see link
Finally IT IS HERE
The long awaited North Wales Winter Climbs will be in V12 this Saturday.
Pre order you copy here if you cannot get in V12 shop. Be one of the first to get your hands on copy and use it
Thursday, 6 January 2011
More New Routes
They keep coming and Its been a top day here. Ladders busy, loads done and a cool hard short variation to Birdsong in the bag. More details soon.
Trinity Face ( Wednesday )
Dyn-Ogof, V, 60m
A well positioned counter line to Cave Buttress.Start just right of the toe of Cave Buttress below the shallow left facing groove.
P1 25m 4/5 Pull over the small bulge into the groove. Up this to gain the flake belays of Cave Buttress.
P2 35 m 5/6 Pull up and work up onto the left arete of the buttress, until an awkward move around it gains a good ledge. Along this for a few metres, then up onto a ledge below a steep right facing corner. Peg cracks will encourage you to go steeply up this to gain easier ground and to rejoin the easy upper ridge of Cave Buttress.
[Tim Neill and Jim Mac 5-1-11]
Ci-Tarw, IV/V, 60m
Follows the attractive grooved arete just right of Scoundrels Staircase, and left of the Lux Flakes gully.
60m 4/5 From the lowest point of the buttress, good block belay, take the airy feature directly with sustained ( at the grade ) climbing. Belay as for SS at good spikes/threads etc. Easier to the top.Hard to grade, obscure pro, awkward, exposed etc.
[Tim Neill and Jim Mac 5-1-11]
Jim
Hi Baggy
Great day out on the Trinity Face, Central, Right-hand and Cave Cheers Colin
Baggy
Cruised around Y Garn having a ball on this neve what joy. Alice
Trinity Face ( Wednesday )
Dyn-Ogof, V, 60m
A well positioned counter line to Cave Buttress.Start just right of the toe of Cave Buttress below the shallow left facing groove.
P1 25m 4/5 Pull over the small bulge into the groove. Up this to gain the flake belays of Cave Buttress.
P2 35 m 5/6 Pull up and work up onto the left arete of the buttress, until an awkward move around it gains a good ledge. Along this for a few metres, then up onto a ledge below a steep right facing corner. Peg cracks will encourage you to go steeply up this to gain easier ground and to rejoin the easy upper ridge of Cave Buttress.
[Tim Neill and Jim Mac 5-1-11]
Ci-Tarw, IV/V, 60m
Follows the attractive grooved arete just right of Scoundrels Staircase, and left of the Lux Flakes gully.
60m 4/5 From the lowest point of the buttress, good block belay, take the airy feature directly with sustained ( at the grade ) climbing. Belay as for SS at good spikes/threads etc. Easier to the top.Hard to grade, obscure pro, awkward, exposed etc.
[Tim Neill and Jim Mac 5-1-11]
Jim
Hi Baggy
Great day out on the Trinity Face, Central, Right-hand and Cave Cheers Colin
Baggy
Cruised around Y Garn having a ball on this neve what joy. Alice
Wednesday, 5 January 2011
Driven
Today has seen temps drop and a further cthin overing of snow above 600m
Hi Baggy - Report From Tuesday
Quite busy on Clogwyn y Garnedd today. Jim "Big Guns" McCormack (sp?) & Greg Cain did Cave Buttress & Gwyn Ein Byd, 2 other parties towards the Trinity Gullies but couldn't see them in the clag. Tim Neil made a very calm ascent (2nd?) of Streaky's Scoundrel's Staircase...accurately named, described & graded in the book (almost gearless) & I followed with Gwyn Ein Byd before the youngsters got on it! Both very good.
All the best, Geoff
Something different which may appeal to you.
Hi Baggy - Report From Tuesday
Quite busy on Clogwyn y Garnedd today. Jim "Big Guns" McCormack (sp?) & Greg Cain did Cave Buttress & Gwyn Ein Byd, 2 other parties towards the Trinity Gullies but couldn't see them in the clag. Tim Neil made a very calm ascent (2nd?) of Streaky's Scoundrel's Staircase...accurately named, described & graded in the book (almost gearless) & I followed with Gwyn Ein Byd before the youngsters got on it! Both very good.
All the best, Geoff
Something different which may appeal to you.
Tuesday, 4 January 2011
Delayed Xmas Present - but worth It
Hi Baggy
Attached is a pic of Stu Stanley on Sods Law on Snowdon taken on Monday, from Cave Gully (which was good but a bit tougher than usual) Picture by Tim Sparrow.
Picture of Geoff Bennett seconding Cannon Fodder on Monday ( Taken by Huw Gilbert from Central Gully ) look middle left.
Before Xmas I suggested that the best present would be the new Interim North Wales Winter Climbing Guide. However, due to the large amount of snow that fell on the UK before Xmas there were delays. I am pleased to say it is hoped that it will be in V12 this Saturday. From there it will be distributed nationwide.
Attached is a pic of Stu Stanley on Sods Law on Snowdon taken on Monday, from Cave Gully (which was good but a bit tougher than usual) Picture by Tim Sparrow.
Picture of Geoff Bennett seconding Cannon Fodder on Monday ( Taken by Huw Gilbert from Central Gully ) look middle left.
Before Xmas I suggested that the best present would be the new Interim North Wales Winter Climbing Guide. However, due to the large amount of snow that fell on the UK before Xmas there were delays. I am pleased to say it is hoped that it will be in V12 this Saturday. From there it will be distributed nationwide.
Monday, 3 January 2011
Two good days and two new routes to kick the new year off. Another VII in the mix
Seems the last few days have provided some good climbing with many parties enjoying the weekend and Bank Holiday.
Parties have been enjoying classic neve conditions on Snowdon, Cwm Glas, Nameless Cwm, Y Garn and the Ladders to name a few. Easy gullies have been transformed from soft snow to neve.
HI Baggy,
The neve on Y garn and Glyders is bomber. 25 people on Banana gulley !!!!
We nipped up C and B down A and back via the kitchen. Some Ice building there not much.
Alistair
Hi Baggy
Great day ticking some grade 1 and 2 gullies on Snowdon
Cheers Ray
Lovely day on Y Garn great neve. Bill Harris
Managed to climb parsley Fern at last.
Lucy
I walked into the ladders with Tim and Nick and met quite a posy of locals. Other teams arrived later in the day. Not every route was in, with some of the harder steeper climbs being a little black. We choose Artic Fox V-5 which gave 2 good pitches on bomber snowy turf.
Other teams were on icefall R/H, Holylands Climb and Pyramid Gully. Not sure what others climbed.
Chris Parkin just cannot stop, Only 3 days into 2011 and he is at it again. Another VII to his tally.
Report from Geoff Bennett today. Mind you Geoff is just as bad
Couldn't stop him I'm afraid; Cannon Fodder VII 6.5 up the thin turfy open grooves between Artic Fox & Cannon Rib/Menin Gate (?). Chris got the 2 hard pitches, I just had to pootle along & not worry about the long run outs. Chris will put the details on the wiki later.
All the best & thanx for the trax to the top!
Cheers Geoff
Lee Roberts and Stu Stanley managed to squeeze another new route in on Snowdon ( Trinity Face ) today. Sods Law IV-5. Takes a line between Cave Gully Left and Gwyn Ein Byw. Good effort chaps
Stu on Sods Law
The forecast for Tues and Wed looks like its warm again. However, there is more chance of snow and temps dropping again Thurs / Fri so might be good near the end of week/week end.
Parties have been enjoying classic neve conditions on Snowdon, Cwm Glas, Nameless Cwm, Y Garn and the Ladders to name a few. Easy gullies have been transformed from soft snow to neve.
HI Baggy,
The neve on Y garn and Glyders is bomber. 25 people on Banana gulley !!!!
We nipped up C and B down A and back via the kitchen. Some Ice building there not much.
Alistair
Hi Baggy
Great day ticking some grade 1 and 2 gullies on Snowdon
Cheers Ray
Lovely day on Y Garn great neve. Bill Harris
Managed to climb parsley Fern at last.
Lucy
I walked into the ladders with Tim and Nick and met quite a posy of locals. Other teams arrived later in the day. Not every route was in, with some of the harder steeper climbs being a little black. We choose Artic Fox V-5 which gave 2 good pitches on bomber snowy turf.
Other teams were on icefall R/H, Holylands Climb and Pyramid Gully. Not sure what others climbed.
Chris Parkin just cannot stop, Only 3 days into 2011 and he is at it again. Another VII to his tally.
Report from Geoff Bennett today. Mind you Geoff is just as bad
Couldn't stop him I'm afraid; Cannon Fodder VII 6.5 up the thin turfy open grooves between Artic Fox & Cannon Rib/Menin Gate (?). Chris got the 2 hard pitches, I just had to pootle along & not worry about the long run outs. Chris will put the details on the wiki later.
All the best & thanx for the trax to the top!
Cheers Geoff
Lee Roberts and Stu Stanley managed to squeeze another new route in on Snowdon ( Trinity Face ) today. Sods Law IV-5. Takes a line between Cave Gully Left and Gwyn Ein Byw. Good effort chaps
Stu on Sods Law
The forecast for Tues and Wed looks like its warm again. However, there is more chance of snow and temps dropping again Thurs / Fri so might be good near the end of week/week end.
Sunday, 2 January 2011
Back on for some
Last night the temps dropped and we had a sprinkle of snow from about 500m upwards.
Reports of good neve in the gullies and a busy day on the Trinity Face. Pics later
Andy has been on Y Garn see his blog for more info
Pic of the Ladders today at 3.00pm.
Reports of good neve in the gullies and a busy day on the Trinity Face. Pics later
Andy has been on Y Garn see his blog for more info
Pic of the Ladders today at 3.00pm.
Saturday, 1 January 2011
Dank Day, Happy New Year & CBE
Today has been a grey, cloudy and wet day. Light rain in the morning followed by a dry spell then more drizzel this afternoon.
Went on a ride around the park with a few other fellow climbers, blowing off last nights efforts. In the gaps in the low cloud, no snow high up, just a wet , cloudy, dank day.
Due to go cold this evening and over next few days.
Happy New Year folks, not the best start to a new year ref climbing conditions, but there still is another 2-3 months left. Fingers crossed.
Check out the link to see which legend has just got a CBE
Went on a ride around the park with a few other fellow climbers, blowing off last nights efforts. In the gaps in the low cloud, no snow high up, just a wet , cloudy, dank day.
Due to go cold this evening and over next few days.
Happy New Year folks, not the best start to a new year ref climbing conditions, but there still is another 2-3 months left. Fingers crossed.
Check out the link to see which legend has just got a CBE
Friday, 31 December 2010
Still Mild
It has been quite warm over the last dew days. There is still snow lying in the gullies high up, but the crags are BLACK. Reports say of soft snow and un frozen turf high up.
It does look like the temp will drop Sat eve for at least a couple of days.
Any reports please feel free to send in.
Happy New Year
It does look like the temp will drop Sat eve for at least a couple of days.
Any reports please feel free to send in.
Happy New Year
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