Tuesday, 31 January 2012

Another cold day and another new route

Another fine, cold day here in North Wales.

A local team managed to claim a first ascent of a little used and dirty rock route, which gave two good pitches. Details are sparse. Well done chaps.

Now then Bagster!

Just to let you know that I was on Clogwyn Du yesterday with Andy and thought I would update on conditions. Not much ice build up and what was there was a bit hollow and rippy; the turf was also a little soft in places (we did Torquing Shit which was a good choice and stayed off the main crag) It would have defo felt a little wrong doing the main crag routes that rely on turf.  Clogwyn LH would be fun but obviously more interesting would be all the mixed variations, some ice in Pillar Chimney but loads of bottomless snow in the gullys. Defo nount going on in Cwm Idwal, nothing even a 1/3 formed.

It did seem significantly colder that evening at the van but it just needs the turf to freeze up more and the snow ice to stick to the rock a little better. Think climbers should give consideration not to head up there thinking the links of out of El Mancho, Blender Head,  Travesty, etc are in good nick.  I think the turf will need at least a few more days, it's all insulated under the snow 

Cheers Jon R

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