Saturday, 20 December 2008
New routes in Namless Cwm
Back in the cwm today ( Sunday 14th December ) with Dave Brown and Keith Ball
Very quite and seems warm today. Fresh snow overnight has plastered crag. We solo up Tower Gully ( Grade 2 ) to its crux. from here I climb up stepped corners on the right wall of the Tower. This new route goes at IV-6 and gives a really good pitch to the top of the Tower.
Quick solo down Tower Gully, nip over to Clogwyn Ddu and solo up to the start of Pillar Chimney. Lots more ice in here than 3 days ago. However , we have no screws so traverse front of Pillar and instead of going up right hand side of pillar by the chimney, I climbed direct up onto the slab. This gives a short but good piece of IV-5 climbing. Go up slab to top to have a look at Dia Lampards route which traverses out left above the roof above Manx Wall. Turf a little soft and ice quite thin compared to Thursday. Decide to go up right and join Left Hand route to top.
Solo down back back of Cwm then head out right of the Cwm. Keith leads a new route up a gully on thin, loose ice and snow, felt quite insecure. Has two good sections to it. this 1 pitch climb goes at IV-6.
Dark by now, so head off down