Saturday, 17 January 2015

Well its the best we have had for nearly 2 years

Firstly, a warm welcome back to my followers, I know its been some time since my last post, but the lure of the welsh winter scene is too compulsive when new routes are being ticked. For those of you that are new to the blog, then it may not be the font of all information it used to be, but I do hope it proves to be of interest.

So, why this post? Well looking out of the window with the white stuff settling on the ground and receiving another text of another new route, I was inspired to get on the keyboard to share the information.  It crossed my mind in the last spell over Xmas but I managed to resist, but not this time.

With the winter of 13-14 being a disaster then this season whilst not being a belter so far, is a great improvement and climbers are managing to get out and we have some new routes.

So does this mean the blog is back, I am afraid no, well not like it used to be, but if I get info of any new routes then those will be highlighted.

With the forecast looking very good, then things should improve nicely, but we do need more snow.  So I hope you manage to get out.

So where to start ?

Why not with today

The Eigiau 'Out There' *** Saturday 17th Jan 2014

This trip is exactly that proper out there, and utterly brilliant, very steep, sustained, fairly safe and in a wild position.  (Rich Stone and Andy Humphries)

Steps through Space (IV,4)
Is a cracking line through steep ground down in mid Wales. Huw Gilbert and Dan ? ( Dec 29th 2014 ) Great find there lads.

Tryfan East Face and Crib y Ddysgl - 27th and /28th Dec 2014

No stopping Mr. Stone, in the last spell over xmas 2014 a few weeks back he managed to slot in another 2 new routes making a tally of 3 so far this season.
On solo (V/5) on terrace wall north tower and a variant on Gambit Climb help focus the mind for this winter.

No report could fail to mention the quite impressive and demanding first ascent of Wide Asleep X 9

This futuristic climb is another superb, bold, technical and demanding offering form local base talent Pete Harrision.

From a personal view, I am so pleased Pete never made it back to Canada where he was based for many years If so, then North Wales in winter would be lacking quite a few futuristic climbs. Keep them coming Pete.

I remember one new route I held the ropes, whilst Pete inched slowly upwards, in cool control. Climbing 40ms, with one runner up some insecure corner I was blown away how much harder  it was, than it had looked  from the ground. Not only this, but when I got to the section where Pete found himself hanging off one arm on some techy torque when the patch of neve disappeared he was standing on, I knew then he was in a different league of mine.

Wide Asleep gives a very hard route,  giving pumpy, insecure and bold climbing up the steep face 10m left of Cracking Up. Start at the base of a pillar below the centre of the wall.

30m 9 Climb to the top of the pillar. Traverse leftwards and up below the bulging wall. Swing out rightwards onto the steep face, and then climb the pumpy steep wall above on poor insecure hooks in a seam. Step right at an overlap to reach a crack, and then follow this to a good belay on ledges.

30m 6 Climb to the sloping terrace and continue directly above up a crack-line that cuts through a couple of steep undercut steps.

Pete Harrison, Ian Parnell 28.12.14. Onsight first ascent. No pegs placed.

If it holds the grade it'll be the first or second grade X on-sight first ascent in the UK?

Off on a slight tangent, but does highlight another example of what u do do with a few pointy pieces of steel

Nick, why do you want to go to the Tour Ronde, the Tour Ronde is for a Conville Course.” I had never attended a Conville Course, but if this is what they involved, it was obvious I had missed out – sign me up please.
This gave me a personal smile and i suppose many of you will not get the point. However, not to worry, if your like me , unable to burn that enthusiasm off, then keeping in touch with Nick's blog will either fully P!!!! you off or get you well motivated.  It's now the latter.

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