Not a week in and It is not even December

Info from Tuesday

Chris Guest made the second ascent of Devils Dive in the kitchen, thinking the grade more VI than V-6

Steve and Mark climbed Gallipoli on the ladders reporting hard climbing conditions for the grade with little ice.

Conditions from the Kitchen

Minus 4oC at route base, still lots of powder except where its been packed down by walkers on the path. Teams were on Idwal stream and The Ramp. Most pure ice lines still not quite there but maybe doable for the bold. We climbed Coldhouse Crack, which was great fun, although the lack of ice means its more reliant on turf and even a bit of dry tooling! The turf is frozen where it needs to be but is not freezing yet under blanketing snow. If anyone does this route please can they have a go at retrieving our DMM Bulldog just below the top - its rammed in a crack. We ran out of time to retrieve it and we will buy a beer if anyone returns it (079068 191969).

Cheers Jamie

Photo Rob Johnson Collection

Parsley Fern Gully



Monday

Tim Neil and Phil Dowthwaite made a rare ascent of Passchendale Direct VI on the ladders . Awesome route, deserves lots of repeats. Grade IV ice routes all in on the ladders, routes on Central Buttress in best nick. Guesty and John Orr followed us up Passchendale Direct after bailing off Canon Rib, due to lack of rime

Phil on Passchendale Direct



A team climbed Great Gully on Craig Yr Ysfa a top Cold Climb tick

The stream and ramp got climbed a few times

Sunday

Steve Joyson made the second ascent of Mia's fashion Parade Cwm Glas Bach which is a route of Baggy's and Gaz Davies from Feb 2010

Hi Baggy,

Great start to the season, its all happening

Me, my bro Ed, and mate Roel, climbed Jubilee climb on Sunday. Occasionally some soft turf (I think just the turf with deep snow covering it), but mostly very good conditions, and most of the turf bomber. Cracking route!

All the best,
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