There has been no more snow since yesterday. However, today has been a nice day and really cold. On Angelsey ( at sea level ) pools of water in the shade are icing over and I have been told it was -7 on the tops today. Also it appears the snow is a dusting as I suggested yesterday.

Picture of Snowdon from Fachwen today



Also Al Leary reports in again. There is hope yet Al that you will recover and turn to the dark side once again.

Hi Baggy

Since you are office bound for a few days, I thought I'd give you exclusive rights for the scoop of the day. Ruth Willetts and myself tried to get out climbing today, but were thwarted by a mixture of poor conditions, and unjustifiable objective dangers ! If you ever want to train for safe passage through the White Spider of the Eiger North Face, then I can heartily recommend a quick jaunt down to the sports routes above Llangollen.

As the attached pics show, it was quite a nice day ( albeit a touch chilly ), however, a fascinating Pre-Alpine phenomenon was happening. As the sun thawed out the frost, rocks loosened and rained down with frightening regularity ! As part of your public spirited web info service, we thought you'd probably want to know about this ; And of course, did we press on through these hazards with "North Wall Eyes " towards Alpine glory ? , did we bollocks ! Sound mountaineering judgement dictated a retreat butty to Lord Newborough"s cafe. And who says I'm not a mountaineer ?

Photos below, show the mixed nature of the crag, the thin ice smears we encountered and the alpine approach terrain encountered.

Hi

Alos Rob jonson has been out with Jim from his mentor Scheme and they visited Nameless Cwm. Clogwen Ddu is quite black, but they did find old neve and new ice to play on and also climbed Hidden Gully.

Clogwen Ddu




Jim

Overnight there was a dusting of snow. This morning more snow fell and it is down to 500ms, However, it still only a thin covering. The temp is a change from the last few days with it feeling very cold and it was plus 2 at 200ms this afternoon.

Some fun could be had on the high scrambles and the odd mixed route could be in if you know where to look.

If the forecast is true for the next week then things might develop.

Forecast looks promising

The last few days has seen a return of warmer weather with cloud and rain today. However, the long range forecast looks more promising. With freezing levels forecast between 200/600ms and snow possible over the weekend, then next week may provide some opportunities.

Great winter climbing Conditions

Reports in from a man called Al Leary and I thought that as winter had arrived he had gone into hibernation. But no, he has been out and sent me these pictures of him and Bryn Williams lapping up the great winter climbing conditions as he put it.

Maybe the frost the other day got to him or maybe he recently had a proper day out climbing and is still recovering from it !!


Al at Craig y Forwen



Bryn Williams at Craig y Forwen



Any way, with good weather since Friday, alongside frosts over the last few days, reports of turf being hard high up and with snow forecast this week , it could be a return to WINTER Mr Leary.

Tooled up on a Friday Night

The place to be on a Friday nights is The Beacon. With darks nights upon us, beer prices rising and clubs non existent In North Wales where else better to be. But hey forget those rock shoes and chalk bag, the pump really happens when your tooled up. No shooters here just an array of tools from DMM, Petzel and BD.

It is a true extension of what mixed climbing can throw at you within the UK and another form of training and practise which has been common practice up North with regular events and comps on http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ne71uoPC4yk&feature=player_embedded#

With a variety of traverses and 6 bottom rope routes at the Beacon there is plenty to go at. More routes are planned. This is a great opportunity to give it a go if you have never done this indoors. No need to worry about hard grades or not getting routes done just get on and have a play. On the other hand it is a great resource if your into mixed action.

There was a good crack this Friday evening, sharing of ideas, tips and plenty of trying what works and whats spits you off. Better to practice here and see what works, than a 3hr walk in, howling gale, spindrift down your chest, hot aches pulsing through your hands and a frozen belayer. All to find your to gripped to push it out.

With Steve Mayers and Leon well keen to see this work, then get down there. For more info contact the Beacon Climbing Wall http://www.beaconclimbing.com/

Had pictures to show you what was on offer. However, due to a problem with the camera, these will have to wait to next time.

Indoor Dry Tooling hits North Wales

At last, we have a venue for some dry tooling action here in North Wales. After the success of the AMI - AGM workshops that were ran at the Beacon, Steve, who owns the Beacon , has been sold on the idea of opening up the area, routes etc for the winter climber. That is great news.

So what are are waiting for get down there. ( see dates below )


Hone your dry tooling skills at The Beacon this winter

Friday night is dry tooling night at The Beacon!

Snow and ice is starting to appear on the hills so why not kick start your winter climbing with some dry tooling practice at The Beacon. It’s the perfect chance to get back into climbing with tools after a long summer, swap tips and try out new gear.

Sessions will run 7-9pm on Friday evenings and we will be setting up a dedicated area with routes, boulder problems & training circuits. The open sessions are for experienced winter climbers only and you can bring along your axes, boots (not crampons), old Dachsteins, etc. We also hope to have a small selection of tools available for you to try out.

Open sessions will be running on the 11th & 18th December ’09 and will then resume after the Christmas break on the 8th Jan’10. Cost for open sessions will be normal Beacon entry costs.

We will also be running beginner workshops in the New Year as well as master classes – dates & prices of these sessions will be advertised at The Beacon and via The Beacon web site

Grabbing the last of this spell

Any conditions that resemble winter have truly gone. Saturday was very warm and very wet with this type of weather forecast over the next few days. So looks like this spell is over. However, this recent spell has shown that conditions form quickly and are often better than many people think. Hopefully we will see a return. However, last winter this never came until just after new year.

It is good to see people getting the last of the conditions as highlighted below.

Friday, Dec 4th, Tim Jepson was out with 8 students on the Sports Science (Outdoor Activities) degree at Bangor University. In the morning the weather was fine but the air was warm, so they chose to get up high quickly to catch the snow before it softened. To thier great delight, once they were high enough in the Nameless Cwm, the snow was perfect for newcomers to axe and crampons and they did a mass ascent of Easy Route, moving together roped-up.

Another half dozen converts to Welsh winter climbing!!

Keep your eye on the blog as I will post various snippets of interest. Also if your mad keen to have ago at dry tooling indoors then watch this space.

Nearly 72 and giving it large

Thursday and Friday

Thursday delivered another good day and this morning ( Friday ) was a great morning. There was a ground frost at 100m,s and the tops were clear. The snow high up I would imagine would be good, a nice day for easy gullies, ridges and walking over the tops.

However, it is supposed to turn this afternoon, with temps above the tops well into Monday. Only time will tell if any snow holds in but it looks doubtful.

Gaz Davies from ( Summit to Sea ) went up to Fynnon Lloer on Thursday with James and Phil. Still lots of old snow that had consolidated and started to freeze mainly above 800 m. Some new snow fell during the day, mainly as graupel. They played around on some rocky steps (practicing coaching mixed moves ) then dropped back down to climb left-hand y gully.
Another fun day.


Even more impressive was Huw and his mate Cled Jones, who is almost 72. If I am out on the hill at that age, let alone mixed climbing I will be well happy. They were on Clogwyn y Person Arete on Thursday. They were expecting to find wet snow at best but were presently surprised, the rock was all quite verglassed and was noticeably riming up as the afternoon went on. Higher up the route the snow became quite firm where the wind has got at it, crampons were definitely needed along the ridge to Crib y Ddysgl. There seemed to be a lot of snow on the trinity face though.



Cled Jones on Person Arete on Thursday





Seems like there is no stopping Hugh and Cled. You would think at 71 you would need a day off, not this chap he is mad for it. Today ( Friday ) they climbed Tower Rib in Cwm Cniefion. Snow was good, turf was good enough and ice was forming.


Cwm Cniefon - Looks good and plenty of ice



Cled on Tower Rib

Some gullies could be good

Looking at the forecast this evening seems like we are in for another few good days. The wet weather has been useful as it will have consolidated the snow pack . Lots of snow stripped today and crags were black but with the amount of snow that fell on Sunday it will not have all gone and I am sure there will be neve in many of the easy gullies.

Have a good one


Below are a few pics form Gaz Davies from Tuesday on Snowdon.

Early season may be at an end

Today, Big Tim, Andy Turner, Dave Evans and I bailed upto Grib Goch area. Tim and I were going to look at at new route, but getting too it might be an issue. You have to climb slabby and broken ground and with v little neve or frozen turf it might be tricky. This was the case, and again not wishing to trash the turf retreat was the order of the day, even though we were not far off the meat of the route.

Andy and Dave climbed Reades Route on Grib Goch. This is a classic route and goes at V-5/6. It has good gear, goods hooks etc and outstanding position, in particular stepping off the pinnacle ( see below ) get it done. Tim and I followed with Tim taking the lead as I had led the route last winter.

Dave and Andy tried a new route but again conditions stopped play. From our vantage point Trinity Face was plastered in little black dots of climbers.

There is a lot of snow and it is real winter up there. Loads of ice on the Pyg Track and elsewhere, just not on the routes as of yet. Weather looks warm for the next three days and after that, not realistic to believe forecast. Have to wait and see what happens.

Always the same, not so good over the weekend, good mid week and then rubbish the next weekend. Hold in there it will come good again, how do know ? I have no idea !!!


Tim starting 2nd pitch of Reades Route



Me seconding top pitch of Reades Route today




Adam Harmer steeping off the pinnacle, what a position to be in ( Feb 08 )




Andy Turner high up on 2nd Pitch



A view of 2nd pitch




Dave new routing



Snowdon Area under its winter grab today



Gaz Davies went up to the Trinity Face today. The route he tried was not really in so they bailed off wishing not to trash the turf etc. However, he reported it was a great day to be out, full on winter and lots a teams around