After all the good conditions, it is a shame they have not continued over the Xmas break and into the new year.
There has been a big thaw. However, there was a considerable amount of snow high up so there is a chance a lot will stay.
Due to go cold soon, but that keeps changing.
Fingers crossed.
Wednesday, 29 December 2010
Monday, 27 December 2010
Those sweets taste so good( part 2 )
In a previous posting, I reported that Tim Neil and Nick Bullock were going round North Wales as excited as kids in a sweet shop.
Well they show no way of slowing down as the links from Ray Wood and DMM give you all the details
Part Two
Part One
Hope you all enjoyed a great Xmas and managed to get out.
Well they show no way of slowing down as the links from Ray Wood and DMM give you all the details
Part Two
Part One
Hope you all enjoyed a great Xmas and managed to get out.
Saturday, 25 December 2010
Time To Say Thanks
Today and Boxing day is time to remember our forces who I consider to be doing an amazing job.
Camp Bastion
Also
Happy Xmas to you all.
Cheers
Baggy
PS Tim Neil and Nick Bullock show no sign of slowing down, couple of top ice fall ascents, more news in the week.
Camp Bastion
Also
Happy Xmas to you all.
Cheers
Baggy
PS Tim Neil and Nick Bullock show no sign of slowing down, couple of top ice fall ascents, more news in the week.
Thursday, 23 December 2010
Plenty to go At
Thursday Lee Roberts, Stu Stanley and myself went up to the East Face of Bristly Ridge. We did the first winter ascent of great Tower Buttress HS 4B
This gave in our mind a 3 star outing with four quality pitches, IV-4 / V-7 / V-5 / V-6 ( overall V-7 ) Bit of a wade to get up but another great day out. Quite Cairngorm like.
Lee on Crux
Baggy on P3
Stu on P4
Hi Baggy
Just to keep you informed of life in the deep south!
Nant Cafn fall is the name of the attached picture, near Llanymawddwy. Very wet surprisingly since it was minus a lot I think, and hard to get off the ground. Lots of deep powder to wade through!
Daf Davis..............pulling over the top whining about being wet! What could I say! Cheers Andy Hall
Even if the locals are not here, there is always a way. Chris Guest bags a new route of the Dovestones on his Xmas break.
Hi Baggy,
Tortoise and the Hare VI 6
1st Pitch 6 130ft - Climb up Initiation corner for 50ft to grassy ledge. Traverse right(5m) to gain the scooped groove of Whipper In. Follow this leftwards moving out round its left edge to a pedestal. Continue up turf and cracks to a large flake. Traverse right and belay in the cave.
2nd Pitch 6 30ft - Exit the cave rightwards and hang tough!
3rd Pitch 5 40ft - Climb the wall just left of the chimney of Browns route to reach the top.
Cheers Chris
Pics of Rob T seconding.
Also a late post last time, so some might not have seen it.
Tim Neil and NickBullock have been like kids in a sweet shop of late FULL DETAILS AND SOME TOP PICS FROM RAY WOOD AND THE TEAM - VISIT DMM SITE
Appendix has been in nick last few days and had a few ascents some exciting !!
Owen Hayward on Appendix - from turf to ice in a few days - Not a bad xmas present
This gave in our mind a 3 star outing with four quality pitches, IV-4 / V-7 / V-5 / V-6 ( overall V-7 ) Bit of a wade to get up but another great day out. Quite Cairngorm like.
Lee on Crux
Baggy on P3
Stu on P4
Hi Baggy
Just to keep you informed of life in the deep south!
Nant Cafn fall is the name of the attached picture, near Llanymawddwy. Very wet surprisingly since it was minus a lot I think, and hard to get off the ground. Lots of deep powder to wade through!
Daf Davis..............pulling over the top whining about being wet! What could I say! Cheers Andy Hall
Even if the locals are not here, there is always a way. Chris Guest bags a new route of the Dovestones on his Xmas break.
Hi Baggy,
Tortoise and the Hare VI 6
1st Pitch 6 130ft - Climb up Initiation corner for 50ft to grassy ledge. Traverse right(5m) to gain the scooped groove of Whipper In. Follow this leftwards moving out round its left edge to a pedestal. Continue up turf and cracks to a large flake. Traverse right and belay in the cave.
2nd Pitch 6 30ft - Exit the cave rightwards and hang tough!
3rd Pitch 5 40ft - Climb the wall just left of the chimney of Browns route to reach the top.
Cheers Chris
Pics of Rob T seconding.
Also a late post last time, so some might not have seen it.
Tim Neil and NickBullock have been like kids in a sweet shop of late FULL DETAILS AND SOME TOP PICS FROM RAY WOOD AND THE TEAM - VISIT DMM SITE
Appendix has been in nick last few days and had a few ascents some exciting !!
Owen Hayward on Appendix - from turf to ice in a few days - Not a bad xmas present
Tuesday, 21 December 2010
Those Bloody Texts and Calls-Major New VII-7's In One Day plus other routes. - Wales Is K A
The Psyche continues, the game is upped and North Wales keeps giving the UK top Product.
Amongst all the deep snow and chaos the boys are still out knocking out the product and the grades rise.
Bring it one.
4 new routes in two days at V-6, VI-6, VII-7 and another VII-7 ( Actually make that a few more see V12 and DMM links for all the news )
Tim Neil and Nick Blullock bagged a super line which they had been looking at for some time. Central Route ( summer line VS ) on Llech Ddu at VII-7. Tim and Nick raved about the route on the phone " one pitch is as good as any pitch on Central Grooves up North or Black Cleft " said Tim " Best route I have done in Wales " was Nick's view. Wow that is some praise as these chaps have done a few routes in their time.
The route follows the summer line taking in obvious winter deviations along the way. Lots of snow walking in, snowing all day and more snow on the way out gave the full experience. With Nick being a little modest on his grading could it be harder ?
Tim and Nick have been like kids in a sweet shop of late FULL DETAILS AND SOME TOP PICS FROM RAY WOOD AND THE TEAM - VISIT DMM SITE
Next on the blower was Owen Hayward who with Martin Land ( His first route on the Ladders ) climbed a new route in between Gerlan Heights and Gallipio on the Black Ladders. Yr Arianrhod ( Named after Hedd Wyn's Lass who apparently looked like this Celtic Lady ) Giving 4 pitches ( once your in the basin of Central Gully ) two at VI-6 and one at VII-7 . Owen was again praising the climbing with varied mixed ground, at times run out " classic ladders climbing" . Saying that is was as classic as Hedd Wynn and slightly harder gives an idea of the quality of the line. Having lead all but one pitch, snowing all day again the full experience was had by Owen with Martin well chuffed with his first route on the laders and his first VII- Not a bad day out then chaps and not a bad for someone who is into bouldering Owen !!!
Finally, Mr Parkin alongside Kieth Ball claimed two more lines on the Ladders, see the V12 link for full news.
For me, its been a day of suspense, texts, and calls, all the time wishing I was out there. Anyone know the feeling ?
This season has truly exploded and with a new guide out soon, ah that guide, the new guide which is now out of date !! cheers chaps it has been another mega season and its still December !
There is plenty scope out there, so expect more exciting reports and news as the routes fall.
Talking of scope, hears a good tale , sounds quality and scary !!
Baggy,
Been in the Kitchen today. Still deep powder, and was snowing heavily again as we left. We met someone coming off The Stream, which was apparently ok on the steep bits but was terrible in between. Teams queuing on The Ramp, which looked thin. Screen and Curtain were not in. A team started The Appendix but we didn't see them top out. Met another pair who backed off South Gully due to poor ice, although it was climbed later on. They went on to climb Stingray. We climbed Devils Drainpipe, which was very scary due to poor ice in the upper gully. Hopefully a bit better tomorrow?
Jamie Mac and Justin
Amongst all the deep snow and chaos the boys are still out knocking out the product and the grades rise.
Bring it one.
4 new routes in two days at V-6, VI-6, VII-7 and another VII-7 ( Actually make that a few more see V12 and DMM links for all the news )
Tim Neil and Nick Blullock bagged a super line which they had been looking at for some time. Central Route ( summer line VS ) on Llech Ddu at VII-7. Tim and Nick raved about the route on the phone " one pitch is as good as any pitch on Central Grooves up North or Black Cleft " said Tim " Best route I have done in Wales " was Nick's view. Wow that is some praise as these chaps have done a few routes in their time.
The route follows the summer line taking in obvious winter deviations along the way. Lots of snow walking in, snowing all day and more snow on the way out gave the full experience. With Nick being a little modest on his grading could it be harder ?
Tim and Nick have been like kids in a sweet shop of late FULL DETAILS AND SOME TOP PICS FROM RAY WOOD AND THE TEAM - VISIT DMM SITE
Next on the blower was Owen Hayward who with Martin Land ( His first route on the Ladders ) climbed a new route in between Gerlan Heights and Gallipio on the Black Ladders. Yr Arianrhod ( Named after Hedd Wyn's Lass who apparently looked like this Celtic Lady ) Giving 4 pitches ( once your in the basin of Central Gully ) two at VI-6 and one at VII-7 . Owen was again praising the climbing with varied mixed ground, at times run out " classic ladders climbing" . Saying that is was as classic as Hedd Wynn and slightly harder gives an idea of the quality of the line. Having lead all but one pitch, snowing all day again the full experience was had by Owen with Martin well chuffed with his first route on the laders and his first VII- Not a bad day out then chaps and not a bad for someone who is into bouldering Owen !!!
Finally, Mr Parkin alongside Kieth Ball claimed two more lines on the Ladders, see the V12 link for full news.
For me, its been a day of suspense, texts, and calls, all the time wishing I was out there. Anyone know the feeling ?
This season has truly exploded and with a new guide out soon, ah that guide, the new guide which is now out of date !! cheers chaps it has been another mega season and its still December !
There is plenty scope out there, so expect more exciting reports and news as the routes fall.
Talking of scope, hears a good tale , sounds quality and scary !!
Baggy,
Been in the Kitchen today. Still deep powder, and was snowing heavily again as we left. We met someone coming off The Stream, which was apparently ok on the steep bits but was terrible in between. Teams queuing on The Ramp, which looked thin. Screen and Curtain were not in. A team started The Appendix but we didn't see them top out. Met another pair who backed off South Gully due to poor ice, although it was climbed later on. They went on to climb Stingray. We climbed Devils Drainpipe, which was very scary due to poor ice in the upper gully. Hopefully a bit better tomorrow?
Jamie Mac and Justin
Sunday, 19 December 2010
Coming Out-Not Me Though !!!
Hi baggy
Just quick update, clogwyn du was in great nick over the w/e. We did left hand - looks like got done again today according to UKC. A mate was on El Mancho but apparently they abbed off before the third pitch because the leader wasn't feeling well... turf was great though apparently. Couple of pics attached including a reminder to keep out of the way of flying lumps of ice!
I have lots of time off mid week at the moment but struggling to find people to do stuff with. Do you have email addresses for 'locals' who might be up for some mid week winter stuff?
Cheers,
Ad Booth
>
For those of you who have followed the blog over the previous two years you will be aware of a man called Al Leary. He was one of those closet winter climbers who would never admit to enjoying the white stuff.
Well things have taken a taken and he has come out, at last.
Baggy,
Wow, what a difference a couple of evenings make ! Total shocker !!
I don't think I've ever seen so much bleedin snow in one place ; It's
like Ogwen Valley has been transported to Scandinavia !!!
Think I may need some help and advice from your audience ? My
previously discussed dark affliction is slowly , but surely returning
and now hangs around my neck like an Albatross.
The winter solstice ( 23.38 pm, December 21 ), is usually the catalyst
and inspiration for a Sun Rock trip. But now, instead of dreaming of
warm, sunny and fully bolted crags, I find myself awaiting the arrival
of an altogether different type of publication !
During the last spell of conditions, I declined the the magnetic draw
of " The Gold Coast ", in favour of another two routes in the shadowy
depths of Idwal ; I even asked to lead a pitch ! ( see attached pic of
Central Route ).
With enthusiasm building up to a frightening level, I pointed Sam at
an unrecorded finish on the upper wall. Fortunately the Wife is a bit
more experienced in these things, and quickly realised it would be far
too hard for myself. Even missing out on our moment of " interim "
fame, I still found myself almost having a good time !
So Baggy, what is to become of me ? I've already winter climbed for 5
months of this year ( which is about the same as my rock season ).
I'm about to run out of fingers to count the routes and I certainly
don't remember the last time this scenario cropped up !
Is all hope lost ? Is darkness ascending ? Has the light faded ?
Best regards from a worried, aspirant " Winter Man
CONDITIONS UP DATE
Ramp and screen climbed, thin though, stream in with lots snow on it .
Glyder Fach buried, but fun once you get there and dig in
Grib Goch on Sunday, no tracks at 7.30am from Pen Y Pass and so deep that party turned back on summit
Loads snow walking upto Parsley Fern, what was the point then said
Hard work into Ladders and R/H the only real thing in OK nick
Just quick update, clogwyn du was in great nick over the w/e. We did left hand - looks like got done again today according to UKC. A mate was on El Mancho but apparently they abbed off before the third pitch because the leader wasn't feeling well... turf was great though apparently. Couple of pics attached including a reminder to keep out of the way of flying lumps of ice!
I have lots of time off mid week at the moment but struggling to find people to do stuff with. Do you have email addresses for 'locals' who might be up for some mid week winter stuff?
Cheers,
Ad Booth
>
For those of you who have followed the blog over the previous two years you will be aware of a man called Al Leary. He was one of those closet winter climbers who would never admit to enjoying the white stuff.
Well things have taken a taken and he has come out, at last.
Baggy,
Wow, what a difference a couple of evenings make ! Total shocker !!
I don't think I've ever seen so much bleedin snow in one place ; It's
like Ogwen Valley has been transported to Scandinavia !!!
Think I may need some help and advice from your audience ? My
previously discussed dark affliction is slowly , but surely returning
and now hangs around my neck like an Albatross.
The winter solstice ( 23.38 pm, December 21 ), is usually the catalyst
and inspiration for a Sun Rock trip. But now, instead of dreaming of
warm, sunny and fully bolted crags, I find myself awaiting the arrival
of an altogether different type of publication !
During the last spell of conditions, I declined the the magnetic draw
of " The Gold Coast ", in favour of another two routes in the shadowy
depths of Idwal ; I even asked to lead a pitch ! ( see attached pic of
Central Route ).
With enthusiasm building up to a frightening level, I pointed Sam at
an unrecorded finish on the upper wall. Fortunately the Wife is a bit
more experienced in these things, and quickly realised it would be far
too hard for myself. Even missing out on our moment of " interim "
fame, I still found myself almost having a good time !
So Baggy, what is to become of me ? I've already winter climbed for 5
months of this year ( which is about the same as my rock season ).
I'm about to run out of fingers to count the routes and I certainly
don't remember the last time this scenario cropped up !
Is all hope lost ? Is darkness ascending ? Has the light faded ?
Best regards from a worried, aspirant " Winter Man
CONDITIONS UP DATE
Ramp and screen climbed, thin though, stream in with lots snow on it .
Glyder Fach buried, but fun once you get there and dig in
Grib Goch on Sunday, no tracks at 7.30am from Pen Y Pass and so deep that party turned back on summit
Loads snow walking upto Parsley Fern, what was the point then said
Hard work into Ladders and R/H the only real thing in OK nick
Another new route amongst in the mix
Well this afternoon has been stunning
Various reports have come in many informing me of things being a wade fest.
However,
Snow not stopping Tim Neil, he and Nick Bullock battled the snow on Saturday to do the first ascent of The Good Book. This fine new addition at VI-6 links a variety a sections from a few a rock routes ( which get little summer traffic ) well worth the slog to get there.
Nick Bullock on The Good Book P3
Yo Big Bad Baggy,
Think we did Camus today on Cloggy (Mike Pycroft & myself) but the descripton & photo in the old guide were not in agreement, so it could something else about IV 4! It was a very unpleasant slog up there in crotch deep snow (2hr 15min) & you won't get a vehicle along Victria Terrace, but we saw no one else there. The route was worth 3 stars & was in excellent nick, lots of gear & without too much snow to wade thru'. Views from the top were stunning. By the time of our return the path was also much more pleasant proposition. -8 by the time we got to 'Beris.
All the best,
Geoff
Rich Stone and the Booth team found , ice fall r/h on the ladders to be in good nick, Found being the word.
Rich also observed a stack of snow being deposited in various locations on the ladders.
Various reports have come in many informing me of things being a wade fest.
However,
Snow not stopping Tim Neil, he and Nick Bullock battled the snow on Saturday to do the first ascent of The Good Book. This fine new addition at VI-6 links a variety a sections from a few a rock routes ( which get little summer traffic ) well worth the slog to get there.
Nick Bullock on The Good Book P3
Yo Big Bad Baggy,
Think we did Camus today on Cloggy (Mike Pycroft & myself) but the descripton & photo in the old guide were not in agreement, so it could something else about IV 4! It was a very unpleasant slog up there in crotch deep snow (2hr 15min) & you won't get a vehicle along Victria Terrace, but we saw no one else there. The route was worth 3 stars & was in excellent nick, lots of gear & without too much snow to wade thru'. Views from the top were stunning. By the time of our return the path was also much more pleasant proposition. -8 by the time we got to 'Beris.
All the best,
Geoff
Rich Stone and the Booth team found , ice fall r/h on the ladders to be in good nick, Found being the word.
Rich also observed a stack of snow being deposited in various locations on the ladders.
Saturday, 18 December 2010
18 inches and Jasmin White
Another 6 inches of snow came down here last night, giving 18 inches where I live. Never seen so much snow in Wales.
Snow clearing the 2nd time after the plow had been down
The MET office got their forecast wrong for today, It was a beautiful day and it did not really snow
For me it was another keep fit session, firstly moving snow, secondly a run and finally making the most of the not so good climbing conditions by stacking up some DIY in the bag. So painting with Jasmin white and snow moving has meant a some what alternative day with the white stuff !!
Another picture of the car after Friday nights top up. I cleaned all the snow off Friday, before this dump
Hi Baggy,
Totally wild day Friday! ( Friday ) Took 3 hrs to drive from Shrewsbury (normally 1.5!) then 2hrs+ to wade through knee deep powder to colgwyn du! Clogwyn left hand was in awesome nick. Rapped off before the top because Ed had to get back... Good job; just taken another 3hrs to drive back! Keen for more saturday!
Cheers, Ad Booth
Snow clearing the 2nd time after the plow had been down
The MET office got their forecast wrong for today, It was a beautiful day and it did not really snow
For me it was another keep fit session, firstly moving snow, secondly a run and finally making the most of the not so good climbing conditions by stacking up some DIY in the bag. So painting with Jasmin white and snow moving has meant a some what alternative day with the white stuff !!
Another picture of the car after Friday nights top up. I cleaned all the snow off Friday, before this dump
Hi Baggy,
Totally wild day Friday! ( Friday ) Took 3 hrs to drive from Shrewsbury (normally 1.5!) then 2hrs+ to wade through knee deep powder to colgwyn du! Clogwyn left hand was in awesome nick. Rapped off before the top because Ed had to get back... Good job; just taken another 3hrs to drive back! Keen for more saturday!
Cheers, Ad Booth
Friday, 17 December 2010
12 Inches
Well, we are definitely not short of snow anymore.
Approx 12 inches of snow has fallen at my house between 3.00am and 2.00 pm. I live quite low down and on a bus route. However, their has been no movement, not even a sign of a snow plough. The odd 4/4 has come past. I have not seen such a big dump of snow so low down , before.
Outside my house at 9.00am today
Also the snow is powdery which is often not the case.
Not sure if it would be worth coming up the weekend, as most of the roads are closed today.
Anyway there are some keen bunnies around
Hi Baggy,
Totally wild day today! Took 3 hrs to drive from Shrewsbury (normally 1.5!) then 2hrs+ to wade through knee deep powder to colgwyn du! Clogwyn left hand was in awesome nick. Rapped off before the top because Ed had to get back... Good job; just taken another 3hrs to drive back! Keen for more tomorrow!
Cheers, Ad Booth
Jon Byrne & Geoff Bennet returned after failing to get into Upper Cwm Glas! School was closed so off they headed. Roads impassable without 4x4 or chains. Unfortunately chain on left wheel snapped @ Nant Peris. So they walked up to the "path" and then waded uphill for 1hr 20min. They were still well below the upper cwm & the snow was just getting ridiculously deep. There's so much snow up there you wouldn't believe it was Geoff's words; more like the Alps or Canada! Oh for some snow shoes or skis & skins!
They met a couple of blokes who got into the cwm & then turned round as everything was slushy.
Cheers for Geoff for the report.
Approx 12 inches of snow has fallen at my house between 3.00am and 2.00 pm. I live quite low down and on a bus route. However, their has been no movement, not even a sign of a snow plough. The odd 4/4 has come past. I have not seen such a big dump of snow so low down , before.
Outside my house at 9.00am today
Also the snow is powdery which is often not the case.
Not sure if it would be worth coming up the weekend, as most of the roads are closed today.
Anyway there are some keen bunnies around
Hi Baggy,
Totally wild day today! Took 3 hrs to drive from Shrewsbury (normally 1.5!) then 2hrs+ to wade through knee deep powder to colgwyn du! Clogwyn left hand was in awesome nick. Rapped off before the top because Ed had to get back... Good job; just taken another 3hrs to drive back! Keen for more tomorrow!
Cheers, Ad Booth
Jon Byrne & Geoff Bennet returned after failing to get into Upper Cwm Glas! School was closed so off they headed. Roads impassable without 4x4 or chains. Unfortunately chain on left wheel snapped @ Nant Peris. So they walked up to the "path" and then waded uphill for 1hr 20min. They were still well below the upper cwm & the snow was just getting ridiculously deep. There's so much snow up there you wouldn't believe it was Geoff's words; more like the Alps or Canada! Oh for some snow shoes or skis & skins!
They met a couple of blokes who got into the cwm & then turned round as everything was slushy.
Cheers for Geoff for the report.
Wednesday, 15 December 2010
Options around - Balancing Act
Baggy,
The snow has firmed up nicely. Myself and Nick Mortley (current flag bearer of climbing in the deep South) rattled up RH Trinity, Ladies and Cave gullies today and there're good where neve lies and thin otherwise. Take care with the vegetation, the routes we climbed were well frozen.
All the best,
Huw.
Nick finding Cave Gullies rocky crux harder than any steep ice.
Cave Gully In really good condition some years ago ( Thanks to Al Leary PS this is the same section of climb as in above picture )
The snow has firmed up nicely. Myself and Nick Mortley (current flag bearer of climbing in the deep South) rattled up RH Trinity, Ladies and Cave gullies today and there're good where neve lies and thin otherwise. Take care with the vegetation, the routes we climbed were well frozen.
All the best,
Huw.
Nick finding Cave Gullies rocky crux harder than any steep ice.
Cave Gully In really good condition some years ago ( Thanks to Al Leary PS this is the same section of climb as in above picture )
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