A busy weekend in Wales - SOME BIG LOBS-BE CAREFUL

Hi baggy,

Big fall on the Somme on Thursday, the boy was lucky to escape with a broken ankle and lucky 22 was around to pick up. I think I am right in saying this climb is out of condition. Did the Pipes today. This is a brilliant long single pitch for those happy at the grade. Not to be missed, with a thin start..

Matt Sutton

Hi Baggy,
At least five teams ascend a pretty skinny looking Devil 's Appendix on Sunday. One guy took a big lob and lost both of his leashless tools. It was a lot skinnier by the end of the day.

Andrian Treadwell

Hi Mark

Some 'late' news from Friday 8th January.

We had a day off work to make the most of the current ice conditions in Wales but without any firm plans. However once up at Idwal it was obvious that the Appendix was at least worth a try. Several hours later it was in the bag. The first pitch was another inspired lead by Mark but the second and third were also very good value and slightly spooky. Fantastic ice formations at the top. Not sure if anyone else has done it but no obvious signs above the first pitch icicle. Managed to get some decent gear in the second pitch stance (2 good pegs and a wire up and left). Great day but we were a bit frazzled for today so did Face Route in the pass - excellent. Tony Walker and Mark Gration. See pic below.





Some one also took a big lob on Cascade today. Thankfully they are not to damaged.



Hi mark

Devils appendix had some traffic today as did almost everything in idwal

Lots on sting,cellar and ques and hour plus on screen

We did screenand devils pipes both v good but pipes was brittle

Hope to have some pics will send later

Alistair Borrett



Hey Baggy,

Thanks to a tip off from Tim Jepson and Dodi, I headed up to The Ribbon in Cwm Graianog. What a great route! Climbing a perfect streak of ice in a brilliant, but committing setting. Only saw 2 walkers today. A few things, the old Nant Ffrancon road is like an ice rink at the moment, would suggest finding an alternative parking/approach for all routes requiring access from this road (unless in a 4x4). There is also a lot of snow being moved around on the strong winds of the last few days so keep an eye out for windslab on sheltered slopes.

Chris Hooper


Hi Baggy,

Trojan not in good shape apart from the upper section. I climbed about 30m and then the next 10ft at least of ice fell away. Needs some freeze thaw to come in to nick! A

Cheers Chris Guest

Hi Baggy,

The path up to the Black Ladders is now a flattened motorway, after hordes made their way there yesterday.
Lots of folk heading for Western Gully & Eastern Gully. Parkin & Long left new-routing in the dark around Gallipoli; lucky souls! Passchendaele was our choice after letting a visiting dad & son team take Gallipoli.Lots of powder & wind slab on the turfy ledfge routes which made them a little too exciting in places.

Cascade done in the dark last night I understand by Rob from J Browns and Helana !!

All the Best
Geoff Bennett

Hi Baggy

I was out on Yr Esgair Saturday with Ali then, ok conditions, turf not that frozen but holding enough. It was a bit windy at the notch and a few places further up with some spindrift adding to the feel! Definately a winter route! There were a few other solo folks and parties about, but by no means crowded.

We bumped into John and Malcolm from Conway Centre who were headed for The Curver, who looked like they were enjoying it, so, after topping out of Yr Esgair ridge we headed down Easy Gully and headed for The Curver. In agreement with Tim Jepson, it is a bit longer than the 170m in the guide. We bumped in to a party of three on the route who were
enjoying their "new experience". Some interesting cornice shapes on the scarp slope at thetop of the route and some amazing views in every direction! Lots of windslab on the E and SE aspects on the descent back to Ogwen.

I headed out with Ali Sunday again and we were originally bound for the Snowdon area, however, the road on the pass had other ideas for Ali's van. Snow had been blown onto the road from about the quartz stone corner and was succeeding in turning back folks.So with tails between our legs and now half an hour behind the crowds, we retreated and headed for Cwm Idwal. Sure enough, it was busy with plenty deep queues on most of the visible ice routes and a few others too. We opted for a little less climbed option, Sub Wall Route (IV) on Idwal Slabs. The first pitch was initially a bit of powder swimming, but soon got a little fruity. I took on the second pitch, which proved a bit sparse on gear and solid placements for crampon or axe. Lots of
the snow consisted of sugary snow/ice loosely bonded to the slab, mostly with air! There is a nice little step and slab which maintains the interest of the leader. Ali stepped up for a more consolidated 3rd pitch and i took on the fourth.
I am not sure it is a route i would rush out and repeat, but we did have it to ourselves on a very busy day. Maybe that is something to be said of the route we chose??!!

Ali, stepping out around the undercling at the beginning of the 3rd pitch.




Dave Brown

Hi Baggy.

Went to look at abba to see if it was in condition. It isnt and its not even close. Not even the little falls to the right are in condition either !

Ta David

Hey Baggy,

Did Maesglase today. 3 teams in total. It looked like someone else had already been on it. Very good nick! The main fall is best taken on the left as one of the teams had to bail going right. Amazing, highly recommend it!

Steve.

Maria ascent, more on old man resuce and another VII-7 to hit N Wales

I went and climbed Maria on Gallt Yr Ogof with Tim and Libby today. Given IV in Cold Climbs and V in the winter book this route has not been climbed for some years I believe ?? . It is one of those routes I have had on my list for some time, I suppose due to it being in Cold Climbs and hardly there. Friday I went to have a look at this climb from the A5 and thought is was not quite there. How wrong I was, so thanks goes to Martin Chester, Steve Long and Jony G who went in there Friday and found it in nick and letting us know. Two teams were on it when we left today so not so rare anymore.

Overall it may warrant V in its current condition as the first pitch feels quite necky.

Tim Leading first pitch



Baggy starting second pitch


Tim and Libby seconding top pitch



A new route on Llech Ddu has been done Blackourt VII-7. So many hard routes being put up and winter is just starting. I am sure more hard routes will be done over the weekend

I Skied into Llech Ddu Friday with Dave Almond and climbed a new route. Blackout. VII 8. Based roughly on the summer route Blitzkrieg in the lower section, but where that route goes left into the big corner we continued straight up, to the Pillar Traverse, then climbed two more pitches up grooves and steep slabs in the dark. A pretty intense day on a serious bit of rock!

Regards

Simon Frost


Hey Baggy,

Out with Jim Potter today in Cwm Hetiau and did The Irish Mail (IV), fab route! The Railway Gully (II/III) also looks in good nick and so does The Flying Scotsman (IV, 5). Only saw 2 other climbers, who were walking in whilst we were on the route! Got to say it was fairly chilly in the wind today but another beautiful day in paradise...

Cheers,

Chris Hooper

Finally full story on the rescue in Idwal on Friday I reported.

Old Hippy rescued from Cwm Idwal ice fall

Baggy, further to the brief reference in yesterday’s blog to the rescue of an old man in Cwm Idwal on Friday, I can confirm the details of this alarming story. Myself and Jon Ratcliffe were enjoying the steep and funky ice route, The Sting, when we noticed an ageing hippy character soloing up Stingray, a grade IV/V route to the left. Realising that this had a steep and tricky exit I was intrigued as to how this mystery character would cope with such territory. Either he was some veteran superstar nonchalantly cruising around his old stomping grounds, or he was insane escapee from a local old people’s home – at this stage it was hard to tell?

I watched him move sloth-like up the lower easy angled grooves of the route, pausing at mid height to take photos of Jon who was close to the top of The Sting. Jon topped out, but our silent visitor seemed to be stuck, his nervous twitchy moves indicating that an impasse had been reached. A brief shuffling down-climb preceded another lengthy halt when it dawned on me that he had reached another impasse below him and was now marooned halfway up the ice fall.

At this point he turned to me and started gesturing wildly, flapping his arms around like a drunk air traffic controller. The wind had picked up, but amidst the flapping of my hood I could just about make out his muffled cries. “Help, help…I’m stuck! Get me a top rope now, or I’m doomed! I’ll pay good money if you rescue me. Help, help!”

Realising the urgency of the situation, and how his destiny now lay in our hands, I tore back my hood and shouted up to Jon to pull one of the ropes through and drop a rescue rope to the stranded and increasingly frantic old hippy.

With a rope tied round his waist he then sketched his way to the top of the groove in the style of what can only be described as an anxious turtle shuffling up a beach.

Upon reaching the top, imagine our surprise when we discovered that the poor hapless fool that we had rescued turned out to be none other than the esteemed climbing fashion guru.

When asked what had brought him to this sorry, low point where he was begging for top ropes from strangers, the climber became quite tearful as he told us the tale of how he had lost his infamous ‘white trousers’ and thus - much like mythic hero Samson, who was powerless without his long hair – his 'mojo'.

He stumbled away into the mist, muttering something about how “Nobody makes white winter climbing pants these days” and how he would “have to get hold of some of those trendy, low slung”, and crucially, “white snowboarding kecks from his son” and lastly, rather ominously, that he would make sure that our “kind deed was repaid in full”.

Everybody should keep their eyes peeled for the ‘Great White Trouser Wearer’ – he’s out there in the hills of North Wales , although with all the snow he may be hard to spot.

Cheers,

Simon Panton

Ground Up Productions Ltd

More and more routes and ladders back in action

Another fantastic day in the Park. Very cold and clear blue skies. I was on sledging duty again, another school shut again. Anyway more interesting things.

Good beta from Stu regards ladders as its unsure how much snow there has been in there. Looks like the mystique surrounding this route over the last how many years has disappeared. VII-7 having regular ascents in Wales, Bring it on.

Anyway I am sure Lee and Stu should be out rescuing cats and helping the elderly ??? seems like my taxes are paying for them going climbing of late

Yo Baggy,

We ve been on your Ladders today, (sorry we didnt ask!) We made a careful approach to Western Gully area where actually the slopes were quite good (Friday). Under the Pinnacle Face the slopes look loaded, though there were climbers enjoying themselves over there.Lots of spindrift avalanches going off down Western Gully. We managed Flanders, pretty exciting and just keeps on coming, but reasonable pro. In all a long, great route! Weve never had hot aches so frequently in Wales! Get in!

Stu Stanley and Lee Roberts

lee Leading pitch 2 VII-7



Lee 2nding P1




Lee with proper Welsh hot aches, so much harsher than their Scottish counterparts!



Adam Wainwright and Streaky climbed Bracket Gully on Lliwedd. This is a summer route and first climbed by Dia Lampard back in 86 !!!! about V-5 in current conditions. This may be the second ascent. Lot of soft snow on the terraces and in the gullies on Lliwedd.

Idwal was well busy again today so take care with flying debris over the weekend. Someone tried the Appendix but it seemed very un-stable and scary to watch. An Old man had to be rescued in idwal today off a route. Sting in interesting nick about VI at the mo.

Routes on North side of the pass not in nick

Baggy,

I was up on The Cascade today at around 12:00 and a party arrived when we were starting the second pitch. The route is in good condition, a bit thin but as libby said, the placements are all good. You don't need to run the first two pitches together, the belay after the first pitch is good long screws. Take a lot of stubbies with you, the second pitch is a bit thin on protection.

All in all a great route, couldn't believe there was no one else there.

Andy Woolston and Stu Harth

Cascade on Friday

Central Icefall is to fragile. Pass well quite over recent days maybe the masses are in Idwal ? Lots of waiting for routes in idwal, can only be worse this weekend. Read info on snow conditions on Snowdon at end of report.

Face route is in good nick also.

Huw Gilbert as been out over in mid wales and found some ice. However, there is not as much as in the North of the park.

Huw on Mid Wales Ice



Baggy,

Still mega down here. Gwth IV,5 has been today's route of choice, 7 pitches long all but 2 of them on ice. Team Corris had a pair on Central Gully III,4 as well. They whinged a little about deep snow but it wasn't that bad. We're off on another jolly boys outing tomorrow to check out the Dinas Mawddwy water falls, don't know how frozen they are yet. Trojan not in as of yet though.

Cheers,

Huw.

check out more from Hugh from Today

Hi Baggy,


(friday) Started on Sargeant's Gully (Cryn Las), was much wetter and thiner than I'd hoped for, lots of big holes through to the stream, still climbable though. Then round past Clogwyn Y Person where I dug a quick pit before crossing a big NNE facing snow slope to find there is still a real weakness in the snowpack. A top layer of powder over a mid layer of soft but bonded snow which released very easily from the few inches of neve beneath. At the edge of the slope where I tested it was only about 12 -16 inches deep in all but transferring that weakness to the areas of deeper snow was enough for me to do some detours.

To avoid the snow gullies I climbed an unnamed (in WWC anyway) ice fall to the left of Fantail Gully, a full pitch of continuous, leftward-trending, slabby II/III ice then a narrow, shallow gully above (mixed) where you can bridge to avoid tricky steps or loose snow. This leads to a long snow slope (solid this time) which takes you to the East end of Crib Y Ddysgl. I'm sure this will have been climbed many times before but I thought I'd mention it as the book doesn't and it would make an excellent line at its grade when the snow is in condition.

Descent via Crib Goch, which is stunning at the moment and pretty empty as the Pen y Pass car park was closed. N.B all the cars parked on the road there were getting tickets.

Cheers Torquil

Baggy

Thursday 7th - Cadair Idris - Trojan - got up 25m but bailed due to a low volume and quality of ice. Its not thick enough to take screws (its a while off that currently).

Steve Barrett.

This time last week, Tim Neil, Jon Ratcliff and Lee Roberts went for a trip up to Llech Ddu. They climbed West End as it it described in the winter guide. However it says its unclimbed. Well Steve Long and myself climbed it back in 2006 and called it Y Front and gave it VI-6. Tim approached it by the L/H side on an ice fringe. Steve and I approached from the R/H side.

Jon on first pitch of Y Front aka West End



Steve Long on first pitch of Y Front VI-6 back in 2006



Lee then bailed up Skid Row until it got really poky , not quite in nick and getting dark. time for reverse thrusters.

Lee entering final pitch of Skid Row




Snowdon Snow Conditions Info on Friday 8th Jan from a well respected source.

Just had a lovely morning up the ridge right of Cyrn Las then over the top of Garnedd Ugain and down the PYG track. Lots of snow about and strong NE wind blowing it about. There are large areas of windslab. I dug a couple of pits, the first one was near the bottom of the zig zags on a SE slope at roughly 900m.

I didn't do a full profile, but just a couple of quick stability tests. The first was a 'burp' test of the top foot or so of snow and this showed a couple of layers of instability (at about 50mm depth and 120mm depth from the surface), both of which slid after a firm slap on the bottom of the shovel. Both these layers slid on a clear graupel layer (polystyrene ball snow). I also did a shovel sheer test which went at about 300mm (1 foot) deep on a graupel layer again, with a moderate pull. So there are multiple layers of windslab separated by thin layers of graupel. On steeper slopes these conditions could definitely cause an avalanche, with the extra loading of a walker/climber or skier.

I dug another pit on the lower slopes of the Trinity Face on a NE facing slope and there was an older layer of windslab on top of a load of graupel. There was no clear result on the burp test, but almost the full depth of the area dug (only about 500mm) went with a gentle pull near the ground, on a layer of graupel, during a shovel shear test. There was also some avalanche debris a bit higher up the slope in roughly the area of Laddies Gully (maybe from last weekend's avalanche?, not sure where it was). Because this area does not get any sun at this time of year the snow pack is changing very little and the instabilities will remain for a long time. The top slopes of Central Trinity in particular look like they are composed of windslab, probably sitting on graupel. Personally I wouldn't go near them for a while.


Hopefully I am out on sat and at a party sat eve, so no update until Sunday HAVE A GOOD WEEKEND FOLKS

Appendage Repeats- Cascade is In - other news - Will it all slow down ??

Thursday,

Having only time for a short day I joined Owen and Tim Jepson for a trip to Idwal. We climbed the Devils Pipes in Idwal and I was keen to have a go at the Devils Appendage VII-7 . However, when we arrived at the base of Appendage, a large piece of the first pitch was lying on the deck. Apparently this had gone about 1 hour before, leaving the second hanging from thier tools. If this is true all very exciting, but either way, for me that was a good enough excuse not to get on it . There was a team just finishing the top pitch. It does look a fantastic route.

There may be news of another great 2nd ascent in the kitchen on Friday. Fingers crossed

The cwm was mobbed today, climbers all over the place. If your bold and handy the Appendix will go, The kitchen is in nick at V-5, all routes left of the kitchen are in. There is some brittle ice around.

Owen Haywood starting main pitch of Devils Pipes



On Tuesday, Stu ?? Chris Thorne, Tim Neil and Chris Forest bagged the 2nd and 3rd Ascent of the Devils Appendage. The route apparently has gained great status already as a fine ice route and one not to be underestimated.

As Tim Neil states Devil's Appendage. The route is even better than the brilliant name. Stu and Chris had just been up it, and another friend had given it a valiant attempt but left it for another time. It's very thin through the bulge, and involves strenuous hooking/yarding on fragile hooks. This leads to more atmospheric and highly featured ice and a great stance. Top pitch great too!


For more info visit DMM , cheers to Ray Wood

Tim Neil leading pitch 1 of Appendage



Chris Forest on 2nd pitch of appendage



Baggy

Libby Peter and i did Cascade ( Thursday ) in 2 long pitches 60m ropes.Firtst pitch is not that thick ,but placements are good ,so take short screws. The rest is brilliant with good belays,If you combine first two pitches ,you can reach a rock belay on the last pitch with a little spare rope.


Libby on pitch 2 in the guide we ran 1st and 2nd into one pitch 60m ropes





A few other tit bits

Ladders

Seems like it is a real pig, to walk in, I hear, since this dump of snow. Not sure what the routes are like. I am sure someone will go in on weekend

In the Pass

Hi Baggy,

Thursday - "Irish Mail" on Railway Buttress. All the routes there look in good nick. This one had a great pitch of 4 & then 3 more of 2 to the top. Did it in the dark to give it a sporting chance!

Jon Byrne & Geoff Bennett


Thursday - Went into pass and up to Graig y Rhaeder.Easy approach ,but lots of snow. Did Botany slab not in that good nick ended up hanging on one axe as the slab beneath my feet dissapeared. Be good with a little more freeze. Also soloed Mortuary Slab V very good one steep pumpy pitch ,but plenty on it and you could get screws in . Cascade is there,take short screws!

Olly Sanders

Black Ladders

Tim Neil, Chris Forest and Keith Ball cliamed the 2nd ascent of Birdsong only 3 days after the first ascent. However, on Sunday it,s third ascent was done by Steve Long and Paul Platt. Both parties report good climbing and the grade has settled at V1-6

Considering its taken upto 12 years for some of Parkins routes on the ladders to recive 2nd ascent this shows the keeness of late.


CYRN LAS- Wednesday

Hi Baggy

Peter Holden and I went in search of Infidelity but the cloud was down to the bases of the routes so we couldn't locate it. As a result we choose a clear thin fault line left of Sinister Gully but right of Infidelity. This gave 2 50m pitches of steep 3/4 climbing in grooves and a narrow chimney (good spike belay before this section) then 30m of easy snow to belay on The Ramp. (Peg around the corner). A steep chimney then led directly up behind the belay for a further 50m with a couple of sections of 4. A further 100m of easy snow to the summit. We had no doubt it had been done before but its not in the old book (any ideas?) and was a clear line giving a reasonable route in poor vis. Probably not a natural ice line so needs neve(which we had)/frozen turf.

Good fun exploring.....Matt Sutton

3 New Routes on the Ladders

Over the weekend Tim and I put up a new route called Poppies VI-6. This gives a great route with 5 pitches 4,5,6,6,4. The route fills in ground between Western Gully and Birdsong.

With the crag bathed in clear skies we went to investigate the possibility of a new route to the left of Birdsong. Whilst Tim was grabbing the 2nd ascent of Birdsong the week before, he had spied a few lines out left which Adam and Dave had initially considered.

Overall, we were unsure of the outcome, but without a good look you never know. Our thoughts were focused on 1 main area of the the crag, this was around the 3rd pitch of Birdsong. Once we arrived here having climbed 2 new pitches Tim snuck off on a traverse leftwards and disappeared around the corner, this proving the key to the route. Once out of sight Tim climbed another turf groove having to excavate turf threads as the bulldogs were back in Bethesda!!! At least these gave some mental focus for the awarked moves up to the belay

Leaving the belay from the 3rd Pitch I moved right into a groove and followed this for 6ms. After sometime excavating gear on the way up the groove, the turf ran out and I was in plant territory . Time to come back down. Back level with the belay I moved further right into another groove and made progress upwards and then moved out right again to the base of another turfy groove. Now that my runners were over to my left by a few metres and level with me I was keen to get some gear. This I did level with my feet, then it was time to finish the pitch which required me to do quite a few pulls over turfy bulges, thankfully on good turf. Arriving at a big ledge the route was in the bag, looking up it was clear it was just grade IV above. Job done.

Topping out and walking back down with the sun setting producing a lovely orange sky topped the day off.

Poppies VI 6, Black Ladders, FA 03,01,10 Baggy and Tim.

Start at foot of WG proper. Good spike belay 5m right and low. This means having climbed the grade III ground below as for WG

1. 60m IV - Step into WG Gully then, out right onto short steep wall leading to a right trending ramp. Good spikes at its top protect a swing right into top of 1st pitch of Birdsong. Share its spike belay.

2. 35m V - Step left slightly, and with a steep start, gain a groove leading to another good spike below a big left facing corner. Shared with Birdsong.

3. 40m VI-6 Step up onto a turfy traverse leading leftwards to the arête and very good protection. Step down a bit to traverse along a lucky flake to a steep turfy groove above Western Gully. Have it up this to an airy Armchair stance on a big flake on its left edge.

4. 40m VI-6 Stride off the flake into another groove on the right. This splits immediately. Take the right fork to a ledge up and right. This is below and right of the capping roof, and an obvious perched block. Step right across a ledge to its end. Then climb into a steep bulgy turfy groove which leads, with immense exposure to a big terrace.

5. 80m IV- Climb just left of the crest of the tower above to easy ground.

Baggy leading Pitch 2



Baggy starting pitch 4



Tim at after stance after pitch 3



Tim nearing the belay on pitch 4



Tim leading last pitch


In addition to this, Chris Parkin was at it again. Not content with 1 new route he went back the next day and bagged another. Chris is Mr Black Ladders, having added many new routes on the Ladders since the early 90,s with many of these only receiving 2nd ascents since last year.

Worth bearing mind that these routes ranged form V- VII with lots at VI-6. How many climbers were putting up new routes at VI and above 13 years ago ?

Also Chris has dug out details of another new route he climbed around 2000. Krithia V.

Ysgolion Duon / The Black Ladders – Central Buttress

Anzac VI, 6,5,4,4,2 3rd Jan 2010 FA: Chris Parkin, Adam Wainwright

A good mountaineering route with hard to find pro and some short hard sections low down. Situated on the central buttress, taking the right edge of the shallow buttress to the left of the central snowfields of Passendale. Start from the snow terrace below the upper cliff, 25m right of the snows highest point, as for Passendale. Belay below a short left facing square corner.

1. 40m 6, Poorly protected in the lower section but good pro before the hard ‘V’ groove. From the belay step up onto the crest on the right as for Passendale, up then right, and left aiming for an open ‘V’ groove at 25m. Climb the groove 4m, with difficulty; pass a short wide crack up to large flake belay.

2. 40m 5, Move right 2m to a hanging line of turf up a rib. Climb this exiting right on to easier ground after 8m. Follow this rightwards 4m towards the central snowfield until an open groove line above leads to an overhang where awkward moves left allow access to steadier ground and a belay on the left below right facing corner.

3. 47m 4. Climb the corner to its top, exit left and up in to another right facing corner directly below a distinct prominent hanging detached pinnacle/tower containing a chimney/offwidth (visible from the base of the crag). Belay on a large spike on the right, just before angle eases (a longer rope would allow a belay above).

4. 40m 4. Continue up to below the distinct pinnacle and sneak left around its base to a short corner in the gulley where Broken Cease Fire finishes, which leads to easier ground.
5. 90m 1/2. Easier ground leads to a narrow ridge above Western Gully and the summit plateau.

Ysgolion Duon / The Black Ladders
Scimitar Hill – V 5,4,4/5,2 Chris Parkin & Paul Platt 2nd Jan 2010

A mixed route with; ice, turf and rock route to the left of Gallipoli starting from high in Central Gully. Start 20m below Central Gully chock-stones at an ice smear on the right wall.

1. 45m 5
Climb the Ice streak to where it ends and move right on turf and iced rock to good gear in block. Back left on turf to thin exit onto easier ground and up to base of a large block. Travers beneath this and climb up and leftwards to a belay ledge overlooking CG at the foot of a short sharp rib.

2. 35m 4
Climb the left side of the rib for 30m to a short off-width formed by a large flake. Climb this to a belay on large spikes.

3. 35m 4
From the top left spike climb the short wall using the narrow turf line to a large ‘walkway’ ledge below a 2nd rib. Climb the left side of this up cracks and past spikes to top the rib.

4. 20m 2
Up easy ground and exit via a crack in the right wall of a diagonal slot to complete the technical climbing.

5. 120m of grade 1 ground leads to the summit ridge.

Krithia – V 5 Chris Parkin & Richard Townsend circa 2000
A direct start to Gallipoli, which meets it by the large flake on the traverse pitch.
Start 20m left of the normal start higher up CG at the first line of weakness beyond the area of steep compact rock.

1. 40m 5
Climb the line of weakness using rick and turf to reach easier angled ground leading to belay on Gallipoli traverse. Scarce gear.


Other News

Hi Baggy,

Yesterday (Tuesday 5th Jan) Duncan Spencer and I did Clogwyn LH branch on Clogwyn Du in Cwn Cneifion.

The main pitch was technical 6 with poorly developed ice on the left wall. Traversed onto this with slight aid from in situ tat, then freaked out because of the state of the ice – managed to carry on regardless (and protectionless) to finish the pitch. The ice was actually better than it looked, but with hindsight we probably should have stayed in the chimney. Very cold with massive powder snow on approach and descent.

Derek Ryden

Jon and Callum give it large in the Kitchen

Seems like these conditions are going to give us a fair share of rare routes being in condition. Jon Ratcliffe and Callun Muskett climb new routes in Kitchen

Jon Ratcliffe , did a new route on the left wall of the kitchen today ( Monday ) 'before' work (only about 4 hours late..!) with Panton and Andy Scott, bit of a classic to say the least! Twas one of those good days indeed... beautiful morning with alpen glow and squeeky snow, good company and awesome climbing.....30 minutes from the road, as Jon said who needs Scotland?!

There is a good chance this has been repeated by the time you read this, as a team went out this morning.

Full details go to Ground Up

Mind you it does not stop there

In addition to this Callum Muskett climbed a new route in their also last Friday ( New Years Day ) and who thought the kitchen was climbed out !!

Callum climbed a new route in the kitchen on New Years Day.( We have been able to find no one who has climbed it before However !!) It climbs the narrow gully that leads to a chimney between 'Coldhouse Cracks' and the 'Devil's Kitchen'. He climbed this with Malcolm 'Mills' Davies and they both thought it was a good and fun mixed route the first pitch is around grade VI-VII and the second pitch is grade IV/V, these grades may be well out due to in Callums words "my limited experience and getting the fear on-sighting it " Nice to see some honesty kicking around .

I was in the kitchen on Friday and it looked like this route would have been quite hard. Not having the ice that seems the be there currently.

Description:-

Devil's Child** 200ft grade VII ( ??? )

1. Grade VII- Climb the deceptively easy looking gully past a first steepening to a rest below the second steep section. Place a couple of reasonable wire runners in rickety flakes and make some steep moves about a metre right of the narrow chimney up steep turf to reach the easy angled upper gully, belay in the gully somewhere below the final chimney.
2. Grade IV/V- Plow through snow to the very back of the chimney and squirm up the icy pillar chimney'esque chimney with some gear provided from chockstones. Very fun!

Callum Muskett on First Pitch of Devils Child in both pictures





Other News

Had first my first day out winter climbing for five years yesterday and had a brilliant time. I dragged my Dad (who was sporting a pair of vintage axes from the 70's and wearing strap on crampons on a pair of walking boots) up Western Gully. It was in really good nick apart from maybe the 2nd pitch which seemed pretty gnarly for a 4. The direct third pitch was great. The right hand finish didn't look to be in condition. Top route - very varied.

Cheers,

Neil Dickson

Hi Mark,

We climbed Gallipoli Tuesday. Last 2 pitches in the dark due to a late start and getting the car stuck gave us a full on day!
Did he say how he found it yesterday by any chance? Id say, well, it was interesting!! but its only my second route on the Ladders, so they could all be interesting!!

Allan Rob

The Devils Pipes is in now in, best to take a belay below the main ice fall and do that in a oner, a great, under valued pitch, awesome position. Thin ice backed up with rock gear, say about VI, 5 when in a thin state perhaps??(should be thicker now)

Fever is still rising

Another new route today, details soon

Big Tim was back on the Ladders ( 5th visit in a week ) , this time guiding Ian from London on his first Ladder experience. They climbed Galipoli V an old style Classic and had a nice finish on the tops.


From Olly Sanders

East face route Foel Cogh IV 3 good long pitches following a series of grooves and corners . 2nd pitch a bit lean and would have well spaced gear. Relies on turf which is good at moment. Cornices are starting to build at top

Not a soul around

East Face




2nd Pitch



Aye Up Baggy,

I was out saturday with Stu Stanley, had a great time on LLiwedd. We did Cold Water Sandwich. Very good adventure, loads of snow, frozen turf and the most ridiculous amount of rime ice. Impossible to find runners. Lots of snow on the approach, much care needed felt spooky in places. Loads more snow falling just as we were leaving.

How awesome is this winter. Tidy!

Lee Roberts On Cool Water Sandwich




Climbers on Eastern Arete on the Ladders on Sunday

Intensive Fever Hits N Wales

The last few days has seen so much action, I doubt it has been this concentrated in years. There has been new routes, 2nd ascents, repeats, rare ascents it just keeps coming, alongside the weather.

When will it all stop. no yet I hope, everyone is having a ball

I will post a summary of recent events within the next few days

BIG BIG NEWS- Al moves to the Dark Side

Its' big news, possibly outshines Andy Turners repeat of Cracking UP !

Al "I don't go climbing unless it's over 5c and sunny " Leary was spotted ice climbing in Ogwen. It cannot be true you say ? oh yes , I was there and watched him with my own eyes. The flowing movement of 60,s gear could have been mistaken for a long standing ice climber . I felt so privileged to be there and experience this defining moment in the history of Welsh Climbing. Reportedly, he had climbed ice before, but it could have all been rumours, not any more.

It was only a matter of time before the rock legend himself could not hold back, we will see him soon, clambering to grab first winter ascents of many rock routes in the Pass, I am sure.

The proof. Al climbing Ice

Personally, I was out with a client, Alistair. We climbed South Gully, Cellar R/H and the first pitch of Cold House Crack finishing up the final pitch of the Pasture

Pictures of Alistair top pitch of R/H Cellar




Most of the ice routes in Idwal are in. However, not kitchen, appendix, pipes or hanging garden. South is good but needs short screws at bottom of main ice pitch. Top pitch of cellar R/H is in stonking nick.

Avalanches on Snowdon

On Snowdon the snow conditions in places are quite dangerous (probably exacerbated by the slight warming today). Last night on the south and west side of Snowdon while on a search for a missing walker a test pit was dug to perform a shear block test ,the block slid with hardly any pressure at all. There was some 18 inches of new windslab on top of a frozen layer, overlaying a thin layer of unconsolidated granular crystallised snow, with hardly any bonding to the layer beneath.

At about 2 pm today Llanberis Mountain Rescue Team were informed of a substantial avalanche on the top of the PyG track, with at least two persons being swept off the hill, one going a distance of over 100 metres. Thankfully they both managed to rescue themselves and were unharmed. I'd imagine that some of the larger gullies (especially Trinities and Parsely fern) could well be in a similar condition.

Thanks for this info which was sent from Elfyn Jones
Swyddog Mynediad a Cadwraeth (Cymru)
Access and Conservation Officer (Wales)
The BMC

Also Chris Hooper mentions.. with the change in wind direction and fresh snowfall Easy Gully (descent) is being loaded with windslab and shearing easily on the old base. Good to see two teams on The Curver and a team on Yr Esgair.

Cheers,

Chris Hooper

Report:

2nd January
Tim Jepson confirms Chris Hooper's description of the quality of The Curver on Foel Goch. Foel Goch is a big, complex, adventurous face covered in turfy grooves, chimneys and slabs. Today, climbing with Dodi Palmer, Ba Palmer and Nicky Sillem, Tim did the first 130m of the Curver and then finished straight up taking two more, excellent pitches of III+. It should be noted, however, that protection is very sparse on this face and the pitches between decent stances are long (!). The whole face is nearer 250m high (rather than 170m, as stated in the old guide) and shouldn't be taken lightly. If the soft snow currently covering the face tranforms into neve, you will be able to climb almost anywhere.

Tim Jepson

Nicky Sillem leading the second pitch of the Curver, belayed by Dodi Palmer



Ogwen very busy today, people on the usuals and loads of people waiting for routes. Pete Evans and i got early start and went to upper cliff Glyder Fawr and did East Gully ,nice little steep ice pitch at start and 3 good pitches on ice turf.

Cheers Olly Sanders

East Gully



Hi Baggy,

Tim Davis, John storming Norman and I shot up to the Black Ladders with the route in mind. Eastern Gully, the ice pitch was in fairly good nick and the main gully above on Eastern gully was very full of fresh snow. this appears to be consolidating and know has a good broken trail all the way to the fork. The snow on the upper slopes is stable with good section of mixed ice and frozen turf. the tricky step after the fork junction is in good nick.

Andy Jones

Hi Baggy,

Western gully in the ladders with Dave Morse. Conditions generally pretty good though i suspect that this route has more ice at times than it did. We hadn't climbed at the black ladders before and the trick turf and lack of runners took some getting used to!

Found the first gully pitch after the approach climbing to be pretty tough, not the 4 i was expecting with a move of hard 5 or 6. Perhaps I went the wrong way? Not sure. Dave led the direct 'ice pillar' and chimney variation pitch. It probably should be noted that this pitch is pretty sparse on gear (though this could be different if the back iced up). The first peg on the slab pitch is looking very rusted - doesn't wobble much but the metal's wearing very thin on the biner hole. Couple of reasonably tricky moves here. We took the original LH finish. Great route and a great day out.

Snow wise, the approach path and slopes had largely been wind scoured which was nice. There were lee pockets of deeper powder around. None of it felt threatening avo wise. Some short sections climbing on the route had difficult powder conditions including near vertical powder, but all part of the fun eh?

Stephen Barratt

Hi Baggy

Headed up towards Cwm Glas with Face Route in mind. With two teams already in front of us we decided to change plans and head up to do Reades Route. Face route looked thin but climbable, also several teams on or starting up Sargents gully which was looking a bit wet. Reades route was in great winter condition, plastered in snow and rime. Climbing was really good especially the second pitch from the pinnacle.

Simon Lake and Mark Reeves

Stepping Off Pinnacle on Reades Route

New Years Day

Hi Folks

Many thanks for all the e mails and pics of today. However, this evenings post is dedicated to Rupe a passionate and dedicated climber who was liked and loved my many and his friend who both recently passed away.

I am sure our thoughts and deepest sympathies are with their family and friends.

Baggy