Appendage Repeats- Cascade is In - other news - Will it all slow down ??

Thursday,

Having only time for a short day I joined Owen and Tim Jepson for a trip to Idwal. We climbed the Devils Pipes in Idwal and I was keen to have a go at the Devils Appendage VII-7 . However, when we arrived at the base of Appendage, a large piece of the first pitch was lying on the deck. Apparently this had gone about 1 hour before, leaving the second hanging from thier tools. If this is true all very exciting, but either way, for me that was a good enough excuse not to get on it . There was a team just finishing the top pitch. It does look a fantastic route.

There may be news of another great 2nd ascent in the kitchen on Friday. Fingers crossed

The cwm was mobbed today, climbers all over the place. If your bold and handy the Appendix will go, The kitchen is in nick at V-5, all routes left of the kitchen are in. There is some brittle ice around.

Owen Haywood starting main pitch of Devils Pipes



On Tuesday, Stu ?? Chris Thorne, Tim Neil and Chris Forest bagged the 2nd and 3rd Ascent of the Devils Appendage. The route apparently has gained great status already as a fine ice route and one not to be underestimated.

As Tim Neil states Devil's Appendage. The route is even better than the brilliant name. Stu and Chris had just been up it, and another friend had given it a valiant attempt but left it for another time. It's very thin through the bulge, and involves strenuous hooking/yarding on fragile hooks. This leads to more atmospheric and highly featured ice and a great stance. Top pitch great too!


For more info visit DMM , cheers to Ray Wood

Tim Neil leading pitch 1 of Appendage



Chris Forest on 2nd pitch of appendage



Baggy

Libby Peter and i did Cascade ( Thursday ) in 2 long pitches 60m ropes.Firtst pitch is not that thick ,but placements are good ,so take short screws. The rest is brilliant with good belays,If you combine first two pitches ,you can reach a rock belay on the last pitch with a little spare rope.


Libby on pitch 2 in the guide we ran 1st and 2nd into one pitch 60m ropes





A few other tit bits

Ladders

Seems like it is a real pig, to walk in, I hear, since this dump of snow. Not sure what the routes are like. I am sure someone will go in on weekend

In the Pass

Hi Baggy,

Thursday - "Irish Mail" on Railway Buttress. All the routes there look in good nick. This one had a great pitch of 4 & then 3 more of 2 to the top. Did it in the dark to give it a sporting chance!

Jon Byrne & Geoff Bennett


Thursday - Went into pass and up to Graig y Rhaeder.Easy approach ,but lots of snow. Did Botany slab not in that good nick ended up hanging on one axe as the slab beneath my feet dissapeared. Be good with a little more freeze. Also soloed Mortuary Slab V very good one steep pumpy pitch ,but plenty on it and you could get screws in . Cascade is there,take short screws!

Olly Sanders

Black Ladders

Tim Neil, Chris Forest and Keith Ball cliamed the 2nd ascent of Birdsong only 3 days after the first ascent. However, on Sunday it,s third ascent was done by Steve Long and Paul Platt. Both parties report good climbing and the grade has settled at V1-6

Considering its taken upto 12 years for some of Parkins routes on the ladders to recive 2nd ascent this shows the keeness of late.


CYRN LAS- Wednesday

Hi Baggy

Peter Holden and I went in search of Infidelity but the cloud was down to the bases of the routes so we couldn't locate it. As a result we choose a clear thin fault line left of Sinister Gully but right of Infidelity. This gave 2 50m pitches of steep 3/4 climbing in grooves and a narrow chimney (good spike belay before this section) then 30m of easy snow to belay on The Ramp. (Peg around the corner). A steep chimney then led directly up behind the belay for a further 50m with a couple of sections of 4. A further 100m of easy snow to the summit. We had no doubt it had been done before but its not in the old book (any ideas?) and was a clear line giving a reasonable route in poor vis. Probably not a natural ice line so needs neve(which we had)/frozen turf.

Good fun exploring.....Matt Sutton

3 New Routes on the Ladders

Over the weekend Tim and I put up a new route called Poppies VI-6. This gives a great route with 5 pitches 4,5,6,6,4. The route fills in ground between Western Gully and Birdsong.

With the crag bathed in clear skies we went to investigate the possibility of a new route to the left of Birdsong. Whilst Tim was grabbing the 2nd ascent of Birdsong the week before, he had spied a few lines out left which Adam and Dave had initially considered.

Overall, we were unsure of the outcome, but without a good look you never know. Our thoughts were focused on 1 main area of the the crag, this was around the 3rd pitch of Birdsong. Once we arrived here having climbed 2 new pitches Tim snuck off on a traverse leftwards and disappeared around the corner, this proving the key to the route. Once out of sight Tim climbed another turf groove having to excavate turf threads as the bulldogs were back in Bethesda!!! At least these gave some mental focus for the awarked moves up to the belay

Leaving the belay from the 3rd Pitch I moved right into a groove and followed this for 6ms. After sometime excavating gear on the way up the groove, the turf ran out and I was in plant territory . Time to come back down. Back level with the belay I moved further right into another groove and made progress upwards and then moved out right again to the base of another turfy groove. Now that my runners were over to my left by a few metres and level with me I was keen to get some gear. This I did level with my feet, then it was time to finish the pitch which required me to do quite a few pulls over turfy bulges, thankfully on good turf. Arriving at a big ledge the route was in the bag, looking up it was clear it was just grade IV above. Job done.

Topping out and walking back down with the sun setting producing a lovely orange sky topped the day off.

Poppies VI 6, Black Ladders, FA 03,01,10 Baggy and Tim.

Start at foot of WG proper. Good spike belay 5m right and low. This means having climbed the grade III ground below as for WG

1. 60m IV - Step into WG Gully then, out right onto short steep wall leading to a right trending ramp. Good spikes at its top protect a swing right into top of 1st pitch of Birdsong. Share its spike belay.

2. 35m V - Step left slightly, and with a steep start, gain a groove leading to another good spike below a big left facing corner. Shared with Birdsong.

3. 40m VI-6 Step up onto a turfy traverse leading leftwards to the arête and very good protection. Step down a bit to traverse along a lucky flake to a steep turfy groove above Western Gully. Have it up this to an airy Armchair stance on a big flake on its left edge.

4. 40m VI-6 Stride off the flake into another groove on the right. This splits immediately. Take the right fork to a ledge up and right. This is below and right of the capping roof, and an obvious perched block. Step right across a ledge to its end. Then climb into a steep bulgy turfy groove which leads, with immense exposure to a big terrace.

5. 80m IV- Climb just left of the crest of the tower above to easy ground.

Baggy leading Pitch 2



Baggy starting pitch 4



Tim at after stance after pitch 3



Tim nearing the belay on pitch 4



Tim leading last pitch


In addition to this, Chris Parkin was at it again. Not content with 1 new route he went back the next day and bagged another. Chris is Mr Black Ladders, having added many new routes on the Ladders since the early 90,s with many of these only receiving 2nd ascents since last year.

Worth bearing mind that these routes ranged form V- VII with lots at VI-6. How many climbers were putting up new routes at VI and above 13 years ago ?

Also Chris has dug out details of another new route he climbed around 2000. Krithia V.

Ysgolion Duon / The Black Ladders – Central Buttress

Anzac VI, 6,5,4,4,2 3rd Jan 2010 FA: Chris Parkin, Adam Wainwright

A good mountaineering route with hard to find pro and some short hard sections low down. Situated on the central buttress, taking the right edge of the shallow buttress to the left of the central snowfields of Passendale. Start from the snow terrace below the upper cliff, 25m right of the snows highest point, as for Passendale. Belay below a short left facing square corner.

1. 40m 6, Poorly protected in the lower section but good pro before the hard ‘V’ groove. From the belay step up onto the crest on the right as for Passendale, up then right, and left aiming for an open ‘V’ groove at 25m. Climb the groove 4m, with difficulty; pass a short wide crack up to large flake belay.

2. 40m 5, Move right 2m to a hanging line of turf up a rib. Climb this exiting right on to easier ground after 8m. Follow this rightwards 4m towards the central snowfield until an open groove line above leads to an overhang where awkward moves left allow access to steadier ground and a belay on the left below right facing corner.

3. 47m 4. Climb the corner to its top, exit left and up in to another right facing corner directly below a distinct prominent hanging detached pinnacle/tower containing a chimney/offwidth (visible from the base of the crag). Belay on a large spike on the right, just before angle eases (a longer rope would allow a belay above).

4. 40m 4. Continue up to below the distinct pinnacle and sneak left around its base to a short corner in the gulley where Broken Cease Fire finishes, which leads to easier ground.
5. 90m 1/2. Easier ground leads to a narrow ridge above Western Gully and the summit plateau.

Ysgolion Duon / The Black Ladders
Scimitar Hill – V 5,4,4/5,2 Chris Parkin & Paul Platt 2nd Jan 2010

A mixed route with; ice, turf and rock route to the left of Gallipoli starting from high in Central Gully. Start 20m below Central Gully chock-stones at an ice smear on the right wall.

1. 45m 5
Climb the Ice streak to where it ends and move right on turf and iced rock to good gear in block. Back left on turf to thin exit onto easier ground and up to base of a large block. Travers beneath this and climb up and leftwards to a belay ledge overlooking CG at the foot of a short sharp rib.

2. 35m 4
Climb the left side of the rib for 30m to a short off-width formed by a large flake. Climb this to a belay on large spikes.

3. 35m 4
From the top left spike climb the short wall using the narrow turf line to a large ‘walkway’ ledge below a 2nd rib. Climb the left side of this up cracks and past spikes to top the rib.

4. 20m 2
Up easy ground and exit via a crack in the right wall of a diagonal slot to complete the technical climbing.

5. 120m of grade 1 ground leads to the summit ridge.

Krithia – V 5 Chris Parkin & Richard Townsend circa 2000
A direct start to Gallipoli, which meets it by the large flake on the traverse pitch.
Start 20m left of the normal start higher up CG at the first line of weakness beyond the area of steep compact rock.

1. 40m 5
Climb the line of weakness using rick and turf to reach easier angled ground leading to belay on Gallipoli traverse. Scarce gear.


Other News

Hi Baggy,

Yesterday (Tuesday 5th Jan) Duncan Spencer and I did Clogwyn LH branch on Clogwyn Du in Cwn Cneifion.

The main pitch was technical 6 with poorly developed ice on the left wall. Traversed onto this with slight aid from in situ tat, then freaked out because of the state of the ice – managed to carry on regardless (and protectionless) to finish the pitch. The ice was actually better than it looked, but with hindsight we probably should have stayed in the chimney. Very cold with massive powder snow on approach and descent.

Derek Ryden

Jon and Callum give it large in the Kitchen

Seems like these conditions are going to give us a fair share of rare routes being in condition. Jon Ratcliffe and Callun Muskett climb new routes in Kitchen

Jon Ratcliffe , did a new route on the left wall of the kitchen today ( Monday ) 'before' work (only about 4 hours late..!) with Panton and Andy Scott, bit of a classic to say the least! Twas one of those good days indeed... beautiful morning with alpen glow and squeeky snow, good company and awesome climbing.....30 minutes from the road, as Jon said who needs Scotland?!

There is a good chance this has been repeated by the time you read this, as a team went out this morning.

Full details go to Ground Up

Mind you it does not stop there

In addition to this Callum Muskett climbed a new route in their also last Friday ( New Years Day ) and who thought the kitchen was climbed out !!

Callum climbed a new route in the kitchen on New Years Day.( We have been able to find no one who has climbed it before However !!) It climbs the narrow gully that leads to a chimney between 'Coldhouse Cracks' and the 'Devil's Kitchen'. He climbed this with Malcolm 'Mills' Davies and they both thought it was a good and fun mixed route the first pitch is around grade VI-VII and the second pitch is grade IV/V, these grades may be well out due to in Callums words "my limited experience and getting the fear on-sighting it " Nice to see some honesty kicking around .

I was in the kitchen on Friday and it looked like this route would have been quite hard. Not having the ice that seems the be there currently.

Description:-

Devil's Child** 200ft grade VII ( ??? )

1. Grade VII- Climb the deceptively easy looking gully past a first steepening to a rest below the second steep section. Place a couple of reasonable wire runners in rickety flakes and make some steep moves about a metre right of the narrow chimney up steep turf to reach the easy angled upper gully, belay in the gully somewhere below the final chimney.
2. Grade IV/V- Plow through snow to the very back of the chimney and squirm up the icy pillar chimney'esque chimney with some gear provided from chockstones. Very fun!

Callum Muskett on First Pitch of Devils Child in both pictures





Other News

Had first my first day out winter climbing for five years yesterday and had a brilliant time. I dragged my Dad (who was sporting a pair of vintage axes from the 70's and wearing strap on crampons on a pair of walking boots) up Western Gully. It was in really good nick apart from maybe the 2nd pitch which seemed pretty gnarly for a 4. The direct third pitch was great. The right hand finish didn't look to be in condition. Top route - very varied.

Cheers,

Neil Dickson

Hi Mark,

We climbed Gallipoli Tuesday. Last 2 pitches in the dark due to a late start and getting the car stuck gave us a full on day!
Did he say how he found it yesterday by any chance? Id say, well, it was interesting!! but its only my second route on the Ladders, so they could all be interesting!!

Allan Rob

The Devils Pipes is in now in, best to take a belay below the main ice fall and do that in a oner, a great, under valued pitch, awesome position. Thin ice backed up with rock gear, say about VI, 5 when in a thin state perhaps??(should be thicker now)

Fever is still rising

Another new route today, details soon

Big Tim was back on the Ladders ( 5th visit in a week ) , this time guiding Ian from London on his first Ladder experience. They climbed Galipoli V an old style Classic and had a nice finish on the tops.


From Olly Sanders

East face route Foel Cogh IV 3 good long pitches following a series of grooves and corners . 2nd pitch a bit lean and would have well spaced gear. Relies on turf which is good at moment. Cornices are starting to build at top

Not a soul around

East Face




2nd Pitch



Aye Up Baggy,

I was out saturday with Stu Stanley, had a great time on LLiwedd. We did Cold Water Sandwich. Very good adventure, loads of snow, frozen turf and the most ridiculous amount of rime ice. Impossible to find runners. Lots of snow on the approach, much care needed felt spooky in places. Loads more snow falling just as we were leaving.

How awesome is this winter. Tidy!

Lee Roberts On Cool Water Sandwich




Climbers on Eastern Arete on the Ladders on Sunday

Intensive Fever Hits N Wales

The last few days has seen so much action, I doubt it has been this concentrated in years. There has been new routes, 2nd ascents, repeats, rare ascents it just keeps coming, alongside the weather.

When will it all stop. no yet I hope, everyone is having a ball

I will post a summary of recent events within the next few days

BIG BIG NEWS- Al moves to the Dark Side

Its' big news, possibly outshines Andy Turners repeat of Cracking UP !

Al "I don't go climbing unless it's over 5c and sunny " Leary was spotted ice climbing in Ogwen. It cannot be true you say ? oh yes , I was there and watched him with my own eyes. The flowing movement of 60,s gear could have been mistaken for a long standing ice climber . I felt so privileged to be there and experience this defining moment in the history of Welsh Climbing. Reportedly, he had climbed ice before, but it could have all been rumours, not any more.

It was only a matter of time before the rock legend himself could not hold back, we will see him soon, clambering to grab first winter ascents of many rock routes in the Pass, I am sure.

The proof. Al climbing Ice

Personally, I was out with a client, Alistair. We climbed South Gully, Cellar R/H and the first pitch of Cold House Crack finishing up the final pitch of the Pasture

Pictures of Alistair top pitch of R/H Cellar




Most of the ice routes in Idwal are in. However, not kitchen, appendix, pipes or hanging garden. South is good but needs short screws at bottom of main ice pitch. Top pitch of cellar R/H is in stonking nick.

Avalanches on Snowdon

On Snowdon the snow conditions in places are quite dangerous (probably exacerbated by the slight warming today). Last night on the south and west side of Snowdon while on a search for a missing walker a test pit was dug to perform a shear block test ,the block slid with hardly any pressure at all. There was some 18 inches of new windslab on top of a frozen layer, overlaying a thin layer of unconsolidated granular crystallised snow, with hardly any bonding to the layer beneath.

At about 2 pm today Llanberis Mountain Rescue Team were informed of a substantial avalanche on the top of the PyG track, with at least two persons being swept off the hill, one going a distance of over 100 metres. Thankfully they both managed to rescue themselves and were unharmed. I'd imagine that some of the larger gullies (especially Trinities and Parsely fern) could well be in a similar condition.

Thanks for this info which was sent from Elfyn Jones
Swyddog Mynediad a Cadwraeth (Cymru)
Access and Conservation Officer (Wales)
The BMC

Also Chris Hooper mentions.. with the change in wind direction and fresh snowfall Easy Gully (descent) is being loaded with windslab and shearing easily on the old base. Good to see two teams on The Curver and a team on Yr Esgair.

Cheers,

Chris Hooper

Report:

2nd January
Tim Jepson confirms Chris Hooper's description of the quality of The Curver on Foel Goch. Foel Goch is a big, complex, adventurous face covered in turfy grooves, chimneys and slabs. Today, climbing with Dodi Palmer, Ba Palmer and Nicky Sillem, Tim did the first 130m of the Curver and then finished straight up taking two more, excellent pitches of III+. It should be noted, however, that protection is very sparse on this face and the pitches between decent stances are long (!). The whole face is nearer 250m high (rather than 170m, as stated in the old guide) and shouldn't be taken lightly. If the soft snow currently covering the face tranforms into neve, you will be able to climb almost anywhere.

Tim Jepson

Nicky Sillem leading the second pitch of the Curver, belayed by Dodi Palmer



Ogwen very busy today, people on the usuals and loads of people waiting for routes. Pete Evans and i got early start and went to upper cliff Glyder Fawr and did East Gully ,nice little steep ice pitch at start and 3 good pitches on ice turf.

Cheers Olly Sanders

East Gully



Hi Baggy,

Tim Davis, John storming Norman and I shot up to the Black Ladders with the route in mind. Eastern Gully, the ice pitch was in fairly good nick and the main gully above on Eastern gully was very full of fresh snow. this appears to be consolidating and know has a good broken trail all the way to the fork. The snow on the upper slopes is stable with good section of mixed ice and frozen turf. the tricky step after the fork junction is in good nick.

Andy Jones

Hi Baggy,

Western gully in the ladders with Dave Morse. Conditions generally pretty good though i suspect that this route has more ice at times than it did. We hadn't climbed at the black ladders before and the trick turf and lack of runners took some getting used to!

Found the first gully pitch after the approach climbing to be pretty tough, not the 4 i was expecting with a move of hard 5 or 6. Perhaps I went the wrong way? Not sure. Dave led the direct 'ice pillar' and chimney variation pitch. It probably should be noted that this pitch is pretty sparse on gear (though this could be different if the back iced up). The first peg on the slab pitch is looking very rusted - doesn't wobble much but the metal's wearing very thin on the biner hole. Couple of reasonably tricky moves here. We took the original LH finish. Great route and a great day out.

Snow wise, the approach path and slopes had largely been wind scoured which was nice. There were lee pockets of deeper powder around. None of it felt threatening avo wise. Some short sections climbing on the route had difficult powder conditions including near vertical powder, but all part of the fun eh?

Stephen Barratt

Hi Baggy

Headed up towards Cwm Glas with Face Route in mind. With two teams already in front of us we decided to change plans and head up to do Reades Route. Face route looked thin but climbable, also several teams on or starting up Sargents gully which was looking a bit wet. Reades route was in great winter condition, plastered in snow and rime. Climbing was really good especially the second pitch from the pinnacle.

Simon Lake and Mark Reeves

Stepping Off Pinnacle on Reades Route

New Years Day

Hi Folks

Many thanks for all the e mails and pics of today. However, this evenings post is dedicated to Rupe a passionate and dedicated climber who was liked and loved my many and his friend who both recently passed away.

I am sure our thoughts and deepest sympathies are with their family and friends.

Baggy

Its getting like the Alps here and just look at the Ladders

What a fine day here, with the sun cutting across the mountains and crags which are really white high up you could have felt your in the Alps at times.

There is going to be quite a covering of snow high on certain aspects. No doubt this will be soft and powder like in places, but also slabby in places so be careful especially in the tops of Gullys where they open up.

Snow is down to 250m,s and the lake at Ogwen is starting to freeze over.

Ice in Idwal is getting back into good nick.

As for Me, well I was on sledging duty today

Hey Baggy,

Decided to pay Foel Goch a visit today, did The Curver (III) - fantastic route, never too tricky but lots of interest, good mix of verglas, rimed rock, frozen turf and consolidated snow; next up was Red Gully (I/II) - the major gully line that steepens near the top. Then went up 2 routes which aren't in the Welsh Winter Climbs book/ Welsh Wiki website, not sure if they have been done before. I will get a topo done and send it over to show routes. Cornices at the top of routes were all very solid. Descent via Easy Gully (I) is just that... easy! Had the whole Cwm to myself, lovely peaceful place.

Happy New Year!

Chris Hooper

Hi Baggy,

Up at Cloggy soloing today, backed off Eastern Terrace Direct as the ice wasn't great, so went up Eastern Terrace instead which needs lots more snow to bring it down to its grade. At the moment there is a section of steep thin ice, or sketchy mixed just before its joins the terrace proper which is definitely not grade I.

Trinity Face was totally plastered, so white the spider just blended in with the rock. I thought it'd be busy but only one other party there so i ran up Central Trinity which was great, a bit of a soft slog to start but better than i expected.

Finally i couldn't resist the Icefall on Garn Goch on the way down. It was in great condition, far better than the ice on Cloggy and a lovely solo as the sun went down.

Torquil

Rob has been on the ladders today see this link for more info

Huw ( alongside Rob above ) also climbed Pyramid Gully on the ladders today and said good v good nick with lots of snow on the approach and easy angled gullies

The current Welsh Meca

Jubilee Climb

Hi Baggy,

Just returned from a "quality" day out on Cloggy ( Wednesday 0 . Jubilee Climb was in fine condition tho' the turf at the back of the groove/crack on the hard pitch (pitch 2) could have been a bit better. The head-wind on the approach & escape to the railway was awsome, blowing us off our feet! Full on Scottish conditions!!

Chris F & Geoff B

Up dates on New Routes

As promised a few more pictures of Birdsong, the new route on the ladders put up by Adam and Dave this Monday. Speaking to Adam it was obvious that they were pleased with their new route, which is understandable considering how good the pitches sound and the type of terrain one can encounter on this crag.

Adam on pitch 3




Dave on pitch 5



Also, as promised, a few pics of the Booth lads who climbed a variation on El Mancho's first pitch and called it Mankini

Assuming your near the top of the ramp, Mankini starts up Blenderhead ( VII-8) and where this breaks out left up to it's first belay, Mankini carries on up and right up to join El Mancho at it's first stance. This variation is given VI-6.






Some other news of a new route is off Olly Sanders. Titanal 20m II 30m IV was first climbed in March 2008 by Olly Sanders, Gareth Davies and Miss Lissie Smith. So keep your eyes open next time your on your way to the Trinity Face and grab a second ascent. This is accessed from the PYG track on is this side of the Grib Goch Ridge.

Titanal




Olly on pitch 2 of Titanal