Mark Baggy Richards

Its white but is it right ?

2012-01-27T17:38:00.003Z

Wednesday morning took quite a few locals by surprise. There was actually snow on the hills and down to about 500ms.

Thursday was a cold day with a few more winter showers.

Friday morning the snow had risen up to hill to approx 700ms. It did not seem as cold as Thursday, due to the wind not being as strong, but we were having sleet at sea level.

In terms of conditions, one has to remember this is snow on top of what I think is un frozen ground. The temps before the snow arrived were not cold enough to freeze the turf.

Mind you the L - Term forecast is looking very good into next week, so is this the next mini phase of winter madness. Looks like Pete H was in the know , due to his comment on the last post.

The only routes that may be in condition over the weekend, in my mind, will be mixed routes, that need to be white and do not rely on turf. Maybe I am proved wrong. The one down side to all this is that I am unable to get out this weekend.

This is a good time to highlight the new and recent White Guide to Winter Climbing in North Wales follow the link for all the details. The guide is free from V12 or free download from the link

The guide is a combination of work from Dr Barbara Jones (BMC Volunteer and previously Upland Ecologist for CCW), Elfyn Jones (BMC Access & Conservation Officer), Joe Roberts (BMC volunteer and CCW Access Policy Officer) with input from Simon Panton and North Wales winter activist Mark “Baggy” Richards. To be fair Barbara was the one of the key people to kick start this guide. However, with input from CCW and the BMC this is a great example of how organisations and climbers can work together.

Deprerssion has set in

2012-01-24T22:27:00.002Z

Well, if your one of the crew, who are down in the dumps due to the lack of any winter here in Wales, then join the club. I reckon the club is a huge one this year, no doubt with the addition of many new axes just doing nothing but looking good, new and shinny.

Seems patience is running out out for some up north, with many accusations of routes being climbed not in condition. However, we have to remember this is UKC where the term pinch of salt springs to mind.

However, Nick Bullocks blog post on that subject is worth a read to pass some time away.

Quite an interesting subject, when is a route in or out of condition ? . When Simon Panton and I were putting the new North Wales Winter Climbs guide book together last winter. Ah last winter, days and days of ice, quality routes, great conditions, anyway back on track. We decided to hold a local meeting to discuss that said topic. We choose a list, of what we believed at the time represented a cross section of North Wales leading and new route activists and how surprised were we !!!! when all but a handful turned up, approx 30+.

All huddled !!! together in the back room of the Vaynol Arms in Nant Peris, the bullshit flew, so did the opinions. But that was what was required, as the meeting proved a fantastic forum to discuss ethics for North Wales in terms of when are routes in condition and what type of rock routes are taboo to climb in winter.

This meeting formed the basis of the advice given in the new North Wales Winter Climbs guide. in regards as to what type of rock routes should not succumb to the metal pointy brigade and what are winter conditions.

Brings me to last weekend, clear skies, light winds and bone hard ground to near enough sea level. Those turfy routes would have been well frozen, but black. One might say, well that is fine as no scrapping of snow off routes to find holds and pro, no hacking away to find pro, very easy to see where your pick and points are going, no chance of your tools ripping, best conditions for the vegetation. Lets not all rush out there just yet. Lets keep some sense to it all, otherwise as soon as it is cold for gloves, I am off out to have a crack at the Gates !!

Cold , Frosty, Black and routes falling down

2012-01-16T19:13:00.000Z

Still no sign of any snow. Its proving to be a long dark winter this year.

However, some updated info regards a few winter routes.

Subject: the demise of Capstone Heel Hook V-7

Rich Stone has reported a change at Craig Dafydd......the capstone at the top of Capstone
Heelhook has gone and has taken out the pillar below.

On closer inspection, a small rock fall from above has dislodged the capstone and it has hit and taken the top off the pillar between Capstone Heelhook and Si Pantons \'Samuel\' resulting in one large crater below the crag and loose stuff all over both routes.

Samuel looks still passable, but may be dangerous and very loose

Unfortunately the top of Capstone Heelhook is destroyed and seriously unstable.

Real shame that, as it was one of my routes. However, all is not lost, Gaz and me always thought it was VII-8, now we will never know !!!!!!!

Get Sharp, Stay Sharp

2012-01-07T20:19:00.003Z

Be great to think I meant from actual climbing.

Over the years I have often been asked the question off my clients, can you sharpen your own picks ? how do you sharpen your own picks ? is it hard to sharpen them ?

I even got asked those questions last week.

So I thought , there could be a useful blog piece to fill in the gaps between climbing. Anyway I am glad to say Andy Turner thought the same, which has saved me all the work. Nice one Andy.

So if your interested in pick sharpening then visit Andys Blog

For me a good file and a small vice to hold the axes makes a great difference.

However, I am not always that good at following my own advice as you can see from my turfy / mixed picks at the end of last season. The top pick being only 2 seasons old. I have to say the picks in my mixed and ice axes were a lot better. However, the pics below certainly did the job and all that sharpening every time I had been out, far to much hassle, so often left it to the next time, then the next time !

Warm, wet and no snow

2012-01-05T23:44:00.002Z

The blog title says it all !!!

Still nothing

2012-01-04T17:26:00.003Z

Sorry to say, no need getting any type of hope up currently. The hills were bare this afternoon

Poor weather and more training

2012-01-02T11:12:00.003Z

Happy New Year

I hope you enjoyed your festive break ? Also, thanks to all of you who visit the site. It certainly helps maintain its purpose. It would be even better if I had winter conditions to report of, lets keep hoping.

Managed to get out in some half decent weather on the bike and get a few miles in. The weather is so warm at the moment it it seems like Spring at times.

On the way up the Lllanberis Pass

Oh so steep

2011-12-28T18:09:00.037Z

With no conditions then the only option is to go training. For me, this is proving a shock to the system at times after such a long lay off due to injury. So what better way to get a good pump on than to get on a overhanging M7+ mixed route !!!. Getting up it was another matter, mind you Big Tim and Nick Bullock showed me the way.

Just look at those hooks !!!!

Nick lapping Ibex for the 3rd time in a row before moving onto the other routes.

Start of Ibex

That nice Mr Panton of Ground up and V12 has done topo follow the link.

There has been a constant flow of climbers visiting the quarries for the dry tool routes this week, all trying to get some training in, have some banter and take the issue of such bad weather away for a short time.

These routes will either get you very fit or make you walk away feeling very weak, which ever way its all good crack. If you go here you really do need mono points , blunt axes you can get away with as the easier routes !!! have very good hooks. Axes without double handles will just make you try harder.

There really does not look like much change in the weather for the next week. Small pockets of colder weather but nothing to get excited about.

Wet windy and warm

2011-12-28T09:42:00.004Z

Well I hope you all enjoyed xmas and things went well. The weather here in North Wales has been very windy, wet and warm. Tues 27th was a nice day, with very little rain and lighter winds. However, the hills are bare of any signs of snow.

No doubt many of you now have the time to get out onto the hills, if only there were any conditions. Looking back to last winter it was a similar theme. Just after xmas the thaw set in. However, we did have a fair amount of snow on the hills and once the temps dropped on Jan 2nd certain routes came back into condition.

Looking back on Xmas 010 things were different. We were in a spell of very good and cold conditions with many ice routes in nick. There was the opportunity to claim some fine routes, such as the 2nd ascent of Terminator.

Lets hope conditions start to build again. I suppose we have all got used to very good recent winters. The previous 3 years have delivered very good conditions over November and December.

As many of you are aware, the forecast until next Monday is a mixed bag of wind and warm temps apart form a short period today which will result in nothing really. After next Monday, well that is too far ahead in my view as things often change.

Have a good one and thanks to others

2011-12-24T23:44:00.004Z

As followers of this blog will be aware, regardless of conditions, routes etc, I hand over the blog to all our service men and women at this time of year.

As Fellow presenter ( Lawrence Dallaglio ) of the recent Millies Awards stated:

"Sports stars are often put on a pedestal of being heroes of our country but actually, the true heroes are our troops. When you cross the white line as a sportsman you put your reputation on the line. But when you cross the white line as a service person, you put your life on the line and that is inherently different"

In honour of all , I have posted the list of the full winners of the recent Millies Awards

Most Outstanding Airman - Flight Lieutenant Michael Anderson, RAF Odiham, Hook, Hampshire.

Judges Special Award - HMS Liverpool

Support to the Armed Forces - Walking with the Wounded.

Best Reservist - Air Engineering Technician Michelle Ping, Royal Naval Reserve Air Branch, Sheffield.

Overcoming Adversity - Private Scott Meenagh, 2nd Battalion The Parachute Regiment, Cumbernauld, Glasgow

Judges Special Award - RAF Search and Rescue

Best Unit - 42 Commando Royal Marines

Most Outstanding Sailor or Marine - Petty Officer Aircrewman Mike Henson, HMS St Albans, Whitehaven, Cumbria

True Grit - Private Lee Stephens, 3rd Battalion The Mercian Regiment, Solihull, West Midlands.

Life Saver Award - RAF Tactical Medical Wing, Chippenham, Wiltshire.

Most Outstanding Soldier - Sergeant Ryan McReady, 1st Battalion The Royal Irish Regiment, Northern Ireland.

This picture is courtesy of Legion Live, The Royal British Legion online community

Trying to keep in shape

2011-12-23T16:25:00.002Z

With all the thought of winter climbing off the agenda and the rain beating down, it was an ideal day for a trip to the beacon to get some training in.

It was good to see that many of the holds were white !!!!!! which helped give the feel of winter whilst using the fig of fours.

Even more white looking down

Not everyone feels comfortable using the fig of fours, but they can give you a good pump where you need it.

Leading with them helps add to the entertainment value. However, It does seem strange using rock shoes, ideally using your boots would be better but most climbing walls are no keen on this.

Things were going well, with me on the fig fours and big Tim in a more conventional mode. This all ended when team strong arrived in terms of Nick Bullock, Streaky and Dave Rudkin. For some reason ??? the banter started flying around, with much of it in the direction of the me and the fig a fours.

If you have never give them a go, then I wood suggest trying them out.

Oh Dear

2011-12-22T19:33:00.002Z

Looking at the pictures below, I am sure you will agree any thoughts of climbing have gone. These pics taken this afternoon show that most of the snow has disappeared. Things do not look that great in view of the forecast.

However, things have switched and there seems to be a local buzz in terms of dry tooling, which is giving not only a good work out but much banter.

Glyders

Glyders and Snowdon

Today a team [ Adam, Anne, Gerwyn and myself } went underground. Wales is littered with old slate, lead and copper mines. These provide good sport to visit and give a great in sight into the history of Wales and one of its old industries. This mine allowed for a through trip, with quite a few abseils and a nice long ladder climb to finish off !!

Adam giving us the grin which just tells us he having a ball and thinking he must give up kayaking

We visited a mine near Barmouth and thanks is given to Ross Gregan who came along to give us his insight into the history of the mine.

Back to Black

2011-12-21T16:51:00.002Z

Monday was very wet and very warm. The theme of warmth has continued over Tuesday and today with lots of snow being stripped.

Quite obvious this is a real shame, as things were starting to build quite nicely.

No doubt heading high onto North to East facing aspects there will be ribbons of snow in the gullies and with the forecast looking more cold Friday and into Saturday, then Xmas eve could give a nice day out if your early.

Sorry it is not better news.

Ogwen today-Glyders and Y Garn covered in low cloud and it was very warm at Ogy Cott

These pictures are from Owen Hayward, from last Sunday on Reades Route.

Its only snow Dad !!!!

2011-12-19T15:55:00.035Z

Yes it is only snow, but that is the point I said to my five year old daughter, after explaining to her I was not staying with her and my sister overnight. They never really understand do they.

It was still 11.00pm and I was still in Liverpool doing the family thing. I had promised them Saturday was not for climbing, so managing to sneak the blog report in at 23.35 was a bonus. However, driving back to North Wales at 1.20am was not. The text from Andy saying an 8.15am start helped, no early start for us, so that meant I could get up at 7.00am get packed etc and be at Ogwen on time.

Ideally, going out on the Monday would have been the best plan, but the weather looked awful for then, so had to make the most of it and get my first day in of the season.

Venue was an easy choice for once and the plan of a few new routes was in mind. On approaching the crag it was good to see things in nick and that my initial plan was working out.

We managed two new routes with names yet to be given. In reference to the grades and more info visit Andy,s blog on this link . Andy is being conservative with the grades. I suppose the difficulty is, the routes are not really long, they are well protected, but the crux pitches pack a punch with some quality moves. I was not able to repeat Andy's drop knee Egyptian move, I went for the lanky mans dyne technique.

Baggy seconding first pitch of one of the new routes

Andy climbing upto base of route, lots of snow and snow/ice in the gullies

Report from Geoff Bennett

Yo Bagster

See you're up to your usual tricks sneaking off to do new routes whilst no one else is looking!

Was up in the Lost Cwm yesterday ( Saturday 17th Dec ) with Jon Byrne, Louise Tully & Jim McKormack. Managed to put together a III but the turf's not frozen . Ice was not in large enough quantities to complete any of the established lines. Still it was out of the wind (but in the clag all day). Oh better not mention Jim being really hunt over.

Headed for Craig Dafydd with Mike Pyecroft today ( Sunday 18th dec ) and after struggling to see or find anything we did one of your routes Helmand Province; a good route with an excellent top pitch. Noddy & Andy Scott were on another of yours Mr.Ps....Said it was excellent.

Turf still isn't frozen, it's covered in heaps of insulating snow, but the mixed routes are in good condition otherwise. Well worth the slog up there.

See you out there

Geoff Bennett

Report from Owen Hayward

Chris Wood and I enjoyed ‘full conditions’ on Reade’s route yesterday – had to wade through thigh deep snow to get to the route and then excavate thick hoar to find runners and holds. A howling wind added to the excitement. We nearly turned back on the walk in due to soggy ground and slush but as soon as we got into Cwm Glas Bach it was full winter conditions. Suprisingly good adventure and no-one around. Shame it’s all going to go again now – fingers crossed for a frigid new year!

Well I know a few teams are heading out on Tuesday, but I am giving my body time to recover before my next hit. Injuries this year have meant very little climbing or days on the hill.

Bang Bang Bang the Welsh Season opens

2011-12-17T23:35:00.017Z

Well, well after a few false starts things went with a bang over the last few days. It really does not take long for folks to get into gear. However, it seems this year, high gears are being used right from the off.

Firstly, Litte Gaz Davies, ignoring my pledge to leave the hills alone until I joined him, to keep our new route partnership ticking over, bagged another new route on Friday whilst I was in DIY land up north. Well you cannot blame him really, mind you the details are kept sparse.

Then today, the gloves came off as Callum Muskett one the local hot shot youths, cruised up Travesty. VIII-8. Partnered up with Andy Turner, was always going to produce some goods. Seems like Pete Harrison has is eye on another new route. Knowing Pete's vision and the rumours of how strong he has become this year, it will be of no surprise if this route, once climbed could be cutting edge.

Matt Stygle and Adam Huges also managed to claim a first ascent of what looks like another good line with varied climbing.

Further details can be found on Andy Turners blog along with pictures.

What a great start to winter 011 here in Wales and to think it was only last early last week it all looked grim. Just goes to show, if your keen, keep the eyes open and willing to get stuck in results will flow.

I also started to wonder if Mr Bullock was lurking around the place, because I know he was dead keen to get stuck into another Welsh Winter. Ah I thought, before making a call lets have a quick peep on his blog. Well he has certainly been having it, but up north and all very impressive stuff.

Ride of the Wild Bullhorn. VIII/10 Bullock/Tavener. 16/12/11. 55m

Full details visit Nicks Blog

If this, is to be Nick's pre Welsh warm up, combined with the above antics already, this season may produce some very impressive first ascents. In addition to this, knowing of a few other Welsh fanatics who have been in serious training it could all turn in to a top bun fight.

North Wales, what a top winter venue !!!!

It is time to get psyched, even if your goal to is climb Idwal Stream , your first grade V or ???

Lets hope we get the conditions to watch this space.

Finally, amongst all this hype, many of you must be thinking, lucky chaps, if only I could get out ? why are conditions getting good on the last weekend before Xmas. ? I can relate to that, as I was also involved in the family pre xmas warm up this weekend. Mind you I did come into close contact with lots of ice. Mainly called the outdoor ice skating rink in Deansgate Manchester and no, not a chance of a picture.

the buzz is boiling

2011-12-16T20:53:00.000Z

As you may be aware, snow has fallen over night and also today at times. Reports indicate quite snowy and windy conditions higher up. Snow was down to road level in Ogwen.

Matt Stygle and Kath Bromfiled got out on Thursday and did the second ascent of one of my and Gaz Davies routes from last year. HP.

Andy Turner and Ruth Taylor were out today but found the routes they were wishing to climb, not in proper nick. Higher up the turfy grooves Andy found the turf was not frozen all over and this not only meant patchy conditions but not really in the spirit of things. Pushing turfy routes in anything but perfect conditions means damage to vegetation and loss of turf. Something, many climbers wish to preserve in North Wales.

Conditions from the Northen Corries seem like theres lots of snow to contend with.

Amazing what 24hrs can do

2011-12-15T23:20:00.000Z

I am away from North Wales, but my daughter informed me it had snowed high up overnight and the hills look quite white above 600m. With the cold temps of late, the ground should be frozen.

I have also had reports of a few routes - mixed ones being climbed, so there are things coming in. With Thursday eve sugessting more snow and cold temps over the weekend, looks like this weekend maybe the first time that some sport may be had.

Still bare

2011-12-14T19:16:00.000Z

Wednesday and the hills are still bare, just a little dusting on the high tops.

I will put some pictures on later

Going going gone

2011-12-13T18:05:00.002Z

The hills were very bare today. Very little snow, if any on the most of the major ranges. Forgot the camera today so no pics.

Back to square 1 as they say, so summer and Dorys

2011-12-12T20:45:00.001Z

This morning the hills were quite bare, apart from a few places really high up, I doubt there is much snow. However, the forecast does indicate snow showers over the next few days along with the freezing level below the summits. This should start the build up again.

Snowdon Monday afternoon 12th Dec

Without much winter talk, I got into a conversation about Craig Dorys and thought I would share some summer action which happened there this year. Not every ones idea of a nice day out cragging is our Dorys. But some think otherwise.

One chap in the mix for this type of climbing is Nick Bullock and one of his favourite crags came in for some love this summer.

This news piece gives you an idea of what he calls a day out at the seaside.

Blink and its all over again

2011-12-07T15:56:00.001Z

Last night the temps rose and as a result this morning the hills were looking a little bare. Thursday temps are forecast for plus 5 at 900m with rain, then not much more snow forecast after that in the short term. At this stage I reckon any thoughts of weekend action is off the cards.

All pics taken today

Snowdon

Glyders

Ladders

The buzz has started

2011-12-05T20:31:00.036Z

Even though we only have a dusting, I have already had quite a few e mails, giving updates and pictures. So thanks for these and seems the blog is up and live again, i.e winter reports once again coming in.

This morning [Monday]the hills had a little more snow and lower down to about 500ms.

Black Ladders area Monday morning.

Snowdon on Monday morning

The day delivered a few more snow and hail showers with this picture and report from Hew Gilbert this afternoon.

Heh Baggy,

I took a speculative look into Cwm Glas this morning.[Monday ] Clogwyn y Person Arete was all good fun, As expected little ice is forming and none of the turf was frozen, mind you our route was all rock.

Think we'll have to wait a while for anything other than these non-turfy buttress routes to come in, at least it's a start though. As I used to think before the mini ice age 'anything before Christmas is a bonus'.

Cheers,

Huw.

[ Huw Gilbert Collection ]

Rob Johnson was also out on Tryfan enjoying the first snow fall.[Pics Rob Johnson Collection ]

We headed up the North Ridge of Tryfan (1) which gave a brilliant day out in the current conditions. It has been snowing on and off all day down to about 500m. As we reached about 700m we hit the freezing level and where the route had been wind scoured it was quite icy. The turf was frozen above about 800m and we wore crampons for the upper third of the route. These are typical early season conditions the best sport is to be had on the ridge lines, the iced up cracks and unconsolidated snow make for good fun!

Y Garn from Tryfan

North Ridge of Tyrfan

TUESDAY 5TH DECEMBER

Tuesday more snow fell high up, but reports of it being a little warmer.

Simon Verspeak popped up Snowdon [ see below ]

Rob Johnson also went up Snowdon today [ Tuesday ]

Kids Everywhere ! and a little more snow

2011-12-04T15:40:00.009Z

Decided to head to the Beacon Climbing Centre today [ Sunday 4th Dec ] to get on some of the longer routes with the Fig of 4's.

Arriving there we found the place packed out with youngsters as the selection for the new Academy was underway.

Not only that, but with so many parents there, the abuse we received for using the Fig of 4's was quite full on. Good job most of it was just banter , we think ?

So, no pics of us cranking it out on the overhangs as photos were banned due to the youngsters. However, there were a crop of the old guard there taking the role of judges, looking all official with their clip boards . Jonny Ratcliffe from Indy Wall was there, pretending to be a judge, when we all know he was trying to enter, suggesting he looked young enough.

In the end it was the bouldering wall for Rob and me, so much for longish routes today.

However, great to see some many youngsters though, enjoying themselves and making routes/problems so easy.

Also an update from Simon Hollaway in view of snow conditions. He was out on the hill and reported a thin covering down to approx 800ms.

North Wales Climbing Academy.

The stated aims of the academy are: ‘to develop children and young people, within any climbing discipline, ensuring the young climbers are happy, safe and prepared to compete successfully at a national level."

The Youth Academy will provide coaching sessions for talented young climbers, offer a coach development program and a structure for coaches and young members to attend masterclasses. The Beacon Climbing Centre has offered to organize and host the Academy for the general fortnightly sessions and will be running a competition in early December to start the process of recruiting talented young climbers.

The establishing of a North Wales Climbing Academy is particularly timely in the light of competition climbing, either as bouldering, lead climbing or speed climbing, being one of eight sports that is being considered for inclusion in the 2020 Olympics. A final decision is due to be made by the International Olympic Committee in 2013 when it meets in Buenos Aires. It could even be a young climber from the Academy that goes go on to represent Britain at the 2020 Games.

Anyone wishing to support the Academy in anyway should contact Mark at the Beacon Climbing Centre on 01286 650045.

First snow has arrived alongside the first pictures

2011-12-02T23:19:00.000Z

Today the tops were covered in a thin layer of snow. However, nothing to get excited about. Next week does indicate lower temps and periods of snow alongside lower temps higher up. The good thing with lower temps and not much snow to start with, is that it allows the turf to freeze up before becoming insulated with snow.

Anyway, the first pictures of the winter season have arrived today and who would have thought they would have come from that cutting edge winter specialist Al Leary. [These pictures were taken today]

Looks like he needs to sharpen his axes

Looking back to first kick off.

2011-11-25T22:21:00.001Z

These early dark nights really do remind us how lucky we are to get out on those summer evenings. Many of us are waiting to see if we get a winter which will deliver the white goods here in North Wales.

I was thinking of when it all started the previous 3 winters as it these winters have been the ones to deliver the goods of late.

20 October 2008 and we had a good dumping of snow for so early in the season.

Seeing so much snow on the way to work, must get out the weekend. Call to Rob and the plan was made. Meet at Pen Y Pass for 7pm, next morning, get up Snowdon. To be fair, it had only been cold for a few days before the snow came, so we did not think turf would be frozen under the snow. Anyway, great to just get out and back into it. As it turned out turf was not frozen after the first intro section of R/H Trinity, but no worries we scrambled up a snowy/rocky Central Trinity then over Crib Goch and back down in the car-park for 1.00.

Rob Jonson enjoying early snow

So to kick off, the first winter day that produced any real climbing ( well second day really as Matt and Owen got out the day before ) of 2008.

I remember sitting in the office on the Friday morning off 27th November and getting a call off Matt Stygle, asking me for some beta on rocky, snowy mixed lines. It had been cold for a week snow had fallen on the thursday and he was already mad for it. After sharing my thoughts and having to decline his offer to join Owen Samuels and Matt on the Saturday, I popped off to PYB where I was involved in some AMI meeting over the weekend. I was envious that the boys were going out.

Friday was quite a late boozy evening or should I say morning so not much sleep. Saturday morning delivered more snow fall, things were looking good for November. As Saturday evening started to develop into another session, I thought I would give Matt a ring to see how he had got on. You know the score next, a mate telling you how good a day they had experienced and in this instance a second ascent. I was chomping. I decided there and then, to get out with Matt the next day and scrap the meeting on the Sunday. Only issue was I was over the limit to drive and had no kit with me. Plan, stop drinking apart from water, get up at 5.00am , get home scrabble some kit together and meet Matt for 7.00am.

Up early next morning, feeling tied and rough, throwing some kit into a bag at home not really knowing what to take. That first proper day of the season feeling, to much kit, bag to heavy and feeling anxious, as I had to get something done that day.

Meeting up with Matt in Ogwen, Glyder Fach was the plan. Upon arrival we spotted a few new lines, Matt was keen for a first ascent of a establish summer line !! but my enthusiasm took over, up here Matt, look at all that turf, cool line and on and on I went. Hour later, lots of faffing, climbing like a plank, feeling like a wimp I admitted defeat in end. Ok Matt was correct. Rapping off a collection of pegs and wires, I thought welcome back to winter, you just got kicked. Matts turn to pick a line then.

Matt on first pitch of Needles Eye Climb [Given V-6 *** In new guide ]

Sunday 29th November 2008

First off, possibly the first ascent of East Gully Arete, mind you, probably done before and not recorded, Diff in summer - now given IV-5 with a tricky start. Then first winter ascent of Needles Eye Climb. This VD in summer and gives 3 really cracking pitches of climbing. Each pitch being a IV - possible V.

A gem of a climb.

Me on 3rd Pitch on Needles eye climb

Matt out on the Saturday,

Owen out on the Saturday

The tease has started- The first frost of the season

2011-11-12T21:38:00.000Z

Well, a very large welcome back to you all.

It seems the thought of all things white is starting to creep up on many of us. As summer has turned to autumn here in North Wales and many locals and that young DMM rep Rob Greenwood have been blasting all things good in the Alps, the rest of us can only move towards that sad mindless state of asking "will it snow". With Rob ticking off 4 major classic Alpine North Faces since the last Welsh winter ended back in Febuary, I am sure he will have to do some work soon for DMM !!

Wish I had £1.00 for every time I have been asked recently , " will it be a good winter Baggy". I have no clue and to me a forecast telling me it is going to be the worst winter for many years, in other words another great winter for us climbers, is just that. If I had that kind of knowledge or knew if the winter was going good, then I would have used those powers last February when Simon and I released our new book. The day after that event, winter went ! such good timing.

The first signs of winter arrived last week, when we had the first frost. To me this is the first day of winter. In addition to this, we have also received our first report of a first ascent in North Wales in winter. Yes, and it has not even snowed yet. Thankfully its not some controversial dry tooling route on the Cromlech. Steady on, mind you those moves would be good at the top of Left Wall. They should, be as that would be your last climb, hard to climb with broken legs after that ascent. Not from falling but from a meeting with the locals.

Exciting picture of frost !!

The new North Wales Winter Climbs book is already out of date, yes I am one of the authors. However, we got something wrong and some one has contacted us. We knew some routes would have been climbed before some of the dates we put in against them. That was one of the main ideas of the book, get the routes in, find out as much information as we could, then print. Then sit back and wait. So if there are any more genuine disclosures then please do let us know.

The route in question is The Scoop in The Lost Cwm (route 21 on page 70 of the new guide).
Juan Vilatela and Andrew Marshall climbed this line on the 10/1/10 and they think the stated grade is a bit high, probably being nearer IV4. If it requires re-naming Juan has suggested 'The Happiest Mexican in Wales'. Their group (CUMC) also climbed the obvious line to the right on the same day (clear on the topo on page 70) which we reckon is about III3 and was climbed by Lucas Laursen, Steven Andrews and Rachel Berkowitz.

Thanks to Steve Andrews for pointing that out. But if you know different we need to know.

The Scoop

So that is the first winter blog post of the 11-12 season. It all started here again and we can only wish for a season like the previous 3 years.

Good to be back, well I say it is, not sure really ? because many of you create me so much work. What ever happened to just using the climbing wall all winter.

One final thing to add, when sending pictures, try and keep the file size small, if you can. If not ,no worries, but small file sizes gives me more of a life on those dark evening sat in front of that Mac reading all of your antics.

The wait is over and the result is Fantastic

2011-11-08T00:06:00.004Z

The new slate guide to North Wales arrived a few weeks ago and sold out. But fear not, this was just the advanced batch. The main batch arrives very soon. So if it is on your wish list I would not leave it until next spring/summer as it might well be sold out again.

The book has gone down a storm, with many climbers saying this is one of the best guide books to hit the shelves.

Like all guides, it is the work of many climbers who devote their keenness and enthusiasm to help contribute to a books success. However, in the end the, author is the one who pulls it all together and makes a book what it is.

Yes, I may be saying this, as Simon Panton of Ground Up, the author of this guide is a friend and also the co - author of North Wales Winter Climbs with me. All I would say is go and pick up a copy and see for yourself.

Its the same for the Climbers Club Tremadog guide which has also hit the shelves in the last 12 months. Another great job and great book to have.

I have heard rumours of climbers saying how expensive climbing guides are becoming. All I would say, is look at what you get for your money, how long it will last then divide the cost of the book with the entrance fee to your local wall .

The book is an A5 format publication with 376 pages for you to drool over.
After years of neglect the slate quarries of Llanberis have come alive again. A comprehensive re-equipping campaign, coupled with a frenzy of new routing activity has seen the once quiet levels of this vast rock playground buzzing with activity.

Over 200 new routes have been added since the last guide was published. Crucially, much of this new development has occurred at accessible sport grades. Once upon a time slate was reserved exclusively for the elite, but now it is open to all climbers, regardless of their ability or experience.

All tastes are catered for in the quarries, from classic traditional routes such as Comes the Dervish or the magnificent Quarryman Wall routes in Twll Mawr, through the full range of sport climbs running from friendly F4s right up to desperate F8bs.

To purchase the guide on line, from V12 follow the link

Like being in the Med

2011-10-20T23:02:00.003+01:00

No not this month, but at the end of September, the temps went crazy and what good timing that proved. I had planned a circumnavigation of the Isle of Wight, with Roger, a good friend of mine, back in April this year. However, we both thought we would be battling with the weather not lapping up the sun.

Struggling with an ankle injury this year, which has stopped me climbing since January, I have spent a lot of time sea kayaking. This has proved much entertainment, big water and a variety of trips to Mid/South Wales. It has also allowed me to spend time with Adam Harmer who is always up for a laugh and time at Summit to Sea Shop run by Pete Barr, This shop is Wales leading sea / kayak shop alongside being a climbing shop. It is found at Valley on Angelsey in North Wales. Time spent with Pete is never dull, the only time I went out with him on the water, this year, ended up, with us calling the coastguard out, at night, to rescue a drunk hanging precariously to the edge of North Stack. Mind you Pete bagged the souvenir, the empty bottle of bells.

Roger and I left North Wales on the 26th Sep under blue skies and that is how it stayed until our arrival back in North Wales 4 days later.

Leaving Key Haven on the morning of the 27th Sep, we paddled out and down to the famous Needles and associated lighthouse on the S/W tip of the Island. Our visit here proved very pleasant and calm, which is often not the case, 5 hours after leaving the Needles and stopping off at Freshwater bay we pulled up on the beach below Blackgang Chine.

This was a cracking night to spend on the beach, it was so warm and the sunset was an added bonus. Sleeping in our bags was not an option. So the first day, 35km, we spent against a headwind and the tide. Not ideal but this would allow us the use the wind and tide on day 2 to our advantage.

Leaving a 6.00am the next morning to gain the tide, found us paddling into the sunrise and paddling in our t shirts !!. Pulling up at Bembridge just before 9.00 allowed us to bask in the sun and visit the cafe for scones , cake and coffee. !!! Good excuse to re fuel.

Next stop, was just west of Cowes, after dodging ferries, a variety of boats and a few hovercraft. The tide was pushing us along quite nicely and we decided that Key Haven and the finish to the trip was in order.

Back in Key Haven for 4.00pm, the trip was in the bag, the tan was topped, the cakes were old energy and the pub was calling. 75km done on day 2 , a small goal was ticked and added to the list. Its just all the trips and routes on the list which are not ticked are the problem.

The B!!!!!!!!! Youth of Today

2011-02-07T20:12:00.004Z

The ebullience of youth is a well known phrase & sometimes very appropriate. One young climber has seared the North Wales climbing scene recently, both on rock & ice. Al & Sam Leary have experienced Calum Musket's boundless enthusiasm for all things climbing, being his neighbours. As his history teacher I have forestalled his invitations for as long as possible, but finally accepted when he charged in on Tuesday lunchtime to suggest an after-achool ascent of Central Icefall Direct on Wednesday. With my colleague Jon Byrne in tow to convince me, I could hardly say no!

So now it's done; a torchlight ascent of one of N.Wales most famous & rarely formed ice routes. We both thought it would be less scary in the dark because we wouldn't be able to see how far below us the icefall was! I have to say I found the first pitch a hard lead but Calum strung the second & third pitches together, on Nick Bullock's suggestion, in consumate style. Protecting it fully & climbing fast & efficiently on the steep sections.

What is incredible is that Calum has now completed the trilogy of classic Welsh ice climbs, having led The Devil's Appendix & Cascade last winter and all before he is 18 next summer! Some may say he has been lucky with the weather & others might credit modern ice tools & protection, but it should be remembered that he led the Appendix with borrowed boots, 2 ice screws & a pair of Terradactyls! There's no doubt therefore that he also has an abundance of confidence, strength & skill to go with the other advantages.

Bizarrely J.M. Archer Thompson came to mind as I was perched on the belay block. He was a teacher at our school a century ago. What would he have thought? "An excellent character building adventure & an unforgettable experience" I'm sure of that. And so it was.

Cheers Calum - good luck in your climbing career.

Geoff Bennett

PS-Just before you get to excited they climbed CID on end Dec 010

On Hold

2011-01-24T19:55:00.002Z

As there are no climbing conditions, then the blog is going on hold.

When conditions improve then I will come back on line again.

Cold and Bare

2011-01-20T19:01:00.000Z

Its been well cold since Monday and the ground is bullet hard low down. However, there is no snow around for climbing.

There has been quite a few discussions regarding the parking issue up at Gerlan. Quite a few local climbers including myself are concerned it could all get out of hand. So once conditions do return please refrain from parking in the places that are not suitable.

Thanks

We can only hope

2011-01-16T13:50:00.003Z

If this is anything to go by, then how many more new routes will N Wales produce ?

Dim Parcio Part 2

2011-01-14T12:08:00.002Z

This is the feedback from the BMC ref the parking issue at Gerlan. It si nice to see them on the ball and being so quick in their assistance. Thanks to Elfyn Jones at BMC Cymru Wales.

Also, seems the Council are to embark on placing parking restrictions up in this area, so it will only make it more difficult to park in this area.

Dim Parcio

2011-01-11T18:44:00.001Z

Hi Folks

Had this message sent to me on Sunday by a local climber who was happy to put his name to it, but I felt that was not required.

Hey Baggy.

On the walk back to Gerlan ( Sunday ) we passed 2 cars parked in "Dim Parcio" lay by, just a short walk from the village. Both of them had full length key scratches down the sides. Highly likely as a result of where they parked. It's very clear in your guide, on your blog and on the wall beside the layby that parking problems are a major issue.

These two car owners have been pretty badly penalised, but it's fair to say that it is their own fault. Maybe you could include some of this text in you next blog, just to remind and wake folk up a bit.

An extra 5 minutes on the walk in and out to the Black Ladders is bugger all!!!

I then received this message this evening

Had a great day on Icefall gulley on the ladders yesterday ( Sunday ) but was sad to return to a vandalised car parked outside Gwaun y Gwiail farm on Gerlan road. Someone had gone to great length to scratch two cars! What can we do?

There is a problem and its even worse on weekends as the locals do not go off to work. The situation is one we as climbers must try and sort out.

I am not one for making a judgement on the blog as that is not what it is about.
( Unless I am raving about the guide !! ) However, I do feel we should give consideration to other cars and users of the road in Gerlan as this time action was taken. I am not saying that action was appropriate but we need to understand the local issue.

I did raise the issue with the BMC last winter, with no outcome, I will contact them again this week so what they think. However this issue of parking at Gerlan has been around and discussed for at least 10 years to my knowledge

The best way is not to block the road, not park in the passing places, not park where it says no parking, arrive after 7.30 midweek and leave before 5. and do not park in crazy places.

Wet and Windy and another few new routes

2011-01-10T17:59:00.003Z

It is a wet and windy day here today.

Anyway more news of the weekend

Looks like Flanders had a few ascents Phil Dowthwaite and Paul Warnock climbed it on Saturday, again reporting good quality.

Yo Baggy

Climbed a new route around Cannon Fodder & Artic Fox area with Greg Cain & Torquil Bennett on Saturday.

Battle of the Bulge VI+ 3,5,6,3,6 (perhaps VI as the gear was pretty shoddy in places & it was pretty sustained on pitch 3).

Greg led thru' the crux rock bulge on pitch 3 (I got the turf bulge on pitch 5!); a balsy effort from the young lad.

All the best Geoff

Hi Baggy

Thought that I might take a good look at mixed climbing and see what all the fuss was about before the thaw.

Myself and Simon White headed up Fallen Block Climb on Crib y Ddysgl. Flippin brilliant, not climbed often or maybe ever in winter I guess. Four good pitches and never a bad move on it. First pitch is poss 5 but really good. Loads of secure feeling hooks and torques. Reckon the pitches go at 5,4,3,4.

Cheers,

Huw

Another good fine day in Wales

2011-01-09T19:06:00.008Z

With a good frost overnight and the wind dying off, Sunday was on for a good day. With the turf bomber, neve bomber and loads of climbers armed with the New Winter Guide it was a recipe for some quality climbing.

Lots of people out climbing classic ice, as well as Pyramid Buttress, Imminent Conflict, Gallipoli, Western gully and Geoff and team forging new ground right of Arctic Fox. Beautiful late afternoon light too.

Cheers Tim

Saturday was also another good day in the Park.

Mark Walker bagged Flanders saying what a great route it was.

Stu and Ben Sat afternoon on the Ladders. They climbed Pyramid Gully- quite tricky first pitch at present.

Lots of e mails saying how good Trinity and Nameless Cwm has been over weekend.

Seems like it has been a quality weekend in Wales.

We can only hope

2011-01-08T22:56:00.003Z

If this is anything to go by, then how many more new routes will N Wales produce ?

The waiting is finally over

2011-01-08T17:33:00.006Z

Today the North Wales Winter Climbing Guide ( Interim ) went on sale in V12.

With a good stream of climbers turning up to buy the guide and the main team of contributors gathering to welcome the guide onto the shelves, a good morning was had at V12.

It must be noted, that this guide is the work of a variety of climbers, many local, who have supported this project. Without their work, the guide would not be as up to date and as interesting.

Tim Neill, Streaky Desroy, Chris Parkin, Rich Stone, Owen Hayward and Geoff Bennett are the main group that have given their time. However, there happens to be quite a list of others who have helped out in some form.

Simon and I would like to thank you all for your help and we all hope that any one getting hold of a guide finds it a valuable and welcome addition to their collection.

The scene in the V12 cafe this morning just after the guide arrived. Left to right: Jon Ratcliffe, Mark 'Baggy' Richards (guide author), Rhys Huws, Streaky Desroy, Nick Bullock, Keith Ball, Donald King, Tim Neill and daughter Photo: Si Panton

Tim Jepson reports from Friday :

It's still winter up there!

Despite a miserable forecast, there was no wind on Glyder Fach today and climbing conditions on Arch Gully were excellent. What a wonderful route! Great moves, safe stances, even better protection and ab back down to the sacs for lunch. No complaints!

Photo: Dave Williams smiling his way up the final moves of Arch Gully

Lots Going On and the guide has arrived

2011-01-07T17:58:00.006Z

The forecasts were all over the place on Thurs eve. However, the met one this morning, seemed to ring true. Windy, light snow for some time then warming up in the afternoon.

I went to the Black Ladders today. Alistair came along for his first real expereince of mixed climbing, alongside visiting the Black Ladders for the fist time. I decided on Gallipoli V-5, as it has got 5 proper pitches giving a good mix of interest, its a classic and its in Cold Climb.

Turf was bomber and the crux lacking any neve or ice gave added interest.

Alistair top of P 3

Other teams were on Hedd Wyn, Tora Bora, Jacobs Ladder with another team on Gallipoli. There might have been others but with low cloud it was hard to see.

Hi Baggy

Went up trinity face, bit windy at times but had a great time on Central and R/H

Cheers Katherine

Sat Sun and Monday look ok, bit blowy but not to warm.

Tim Neill, Chris Parkin and Nick Bullock made another raid and grabbed another objective that had been climbers minds for since last winter, see link

Finally IT IS HERE

The long awaited North Wales Winter Climbs will be in V12 this Saturday.

Pre order you copy here if you cannot get in V12 shop. Be one of the first to get your hands on copy and use it

More New Routes

2011-01-06T17:23:00.004Z

They keep coming and Its been a top day here. Ladders busy, loads done and a cool hard short variation to Birdsong in the bag. More details soon.

Trinity Face ( Wednesday )

Dyn-Ogof, V, 60m

A well positioned counter line to Cave Buttress.Start just right of the toe of Cave Buttress below the shallow left facing groove.

P1 25m 4/5 Pull over the small bulge into the groove. Up this to gain the flake belays of Cave Buttress.
P2 35 m 5/6 Pull up and work up onto the left arete of the buttress, until an awkward move around it gains a good ledge. Along this for a few metres, then up onto a ledge below a steep right facing corner. Peg cracks will encourage you to go steeply up this to gain easier ground and to rejoin the easy upper ridge of Cave Buttress.
[Tim Neill and Jim Mac 5-1-11]

Ci-Tarw, IV/V, 60m

Follows the attractive grooved arete just right of Scoundrels Staircase, and left of the Lux Flakes gully.

60m 4/5 From the lowest point of the buttress, good block belay, take the airy feature directly with sustained ( at the grade ) climbing. Belay as for SS at good spikes/threads etc. Easier to the top.Hard to grade, obscure pro, awkward, exposed etc.
[Tim Neill and Jim Mac 5-1-11]

Jim

Hi Baggy

Great day out on the Trinity Face, Central, Right-hand and Cave Cheers Colin

Baggy

Cruised around Y Garn having a ball on this neve what joy. Alice

Driven

2011-01-05T17:35:00.001Z

Today has seen temps drop and a further cthin overing of snow above 600m

Hi Baggy - Report From Tuesday

Quite busy on Clogwyn y Garnedd today. Jim "Big Guns" McCormack (sp?) & Greg Cain did Cave Buttress & Gwyn Ein Byd, 2 other parties towards the Trinity Gullies but couldn't see them in the clag. Tim Neil made a very calm ascent (2nd?) of Streaky's Scoundrel's Staircase...accurately named, described & graded in the book (almost gearless) & I followed with Gwyn Ein Byd before the youngsters got on it! Both very good.

All the best, Geoff

Something different which may appeal to you.

Delayed Xmas Present - but worth It

2011-01-04T17:55:00.000Z

Hi Baggy

Attached is a pic of Stu Stanley on Sods Law on Snowdon taken on Monday, from Cave Gully (which was good but a bit tougher than usual) Picture by Tim Sparrow.

Picture of Geoff Bennett seconding Cannon Fodder on Monday ( Taken by Huw Gilbert from Central Gully ) look middle left.

Before Xmas I suggested that the best present would be the new Interim North Wales Winter Climbing Guide. However, due to the large amount of snow that fell on the UK before Xmas there were delays. I am pleased to say it is hoped that it will be in V12 this Saturday. From there it will be distributed nationwide.

Two good days and two new routes to kick the new year off. Another VII in the mix

2011-01-03T17:48:00.005Z

Seems the last few days have provided some good climbing with many parties enjoying the weekend and Bank Holiday.

Parties have been enjoying classic neve conditions on Snowdon, Cwm Glas, Nameless Cwm, Y Garn and the Ladders to name a few. Easy gullies have been transformed from soft snow to neve.

HI Baggy,

The neve on Y garn and Glyders is bomber. 25 people on Banana gulley !!!!
We nipped up C and B down A and back via the kitchen. Some Ice building there not much.

Alistair

Hi Baggy
Great day ticking some grade 1 and 2 gullies on Snowdon
Cheers Ray

Lovely day on Y Garn great neve. Bill Harris

Managed to climb parsley Fern at last.
Lucy

I walked into the ladders with Tim and Nick and met quite a posy of locals. Other teams arrived later in the day. Not every route was in, with some of the harder steeper climbs being a little black. We choose Artic Fox V-5 which gave 2 good pitches on bomber snowy turf.

Other teams were on icefall R/H, Holylands Climb and Pyramid Gully. Not sure what others climbed.

Chris Parkin just cannot stop, Only 3 days into 2011 and he is at it again. Another VII to his tally.

Report from Geoff Bennett today. Mind you Geoff is just as bad

Couldn't stop him I'm afraid; Cannon Fodder VII 6.5 up the thin turfy open grooves between Artic Fox & Cannon Rib/Menin Gate (?). Chris got the 2 hard pitches, I just had to pootle along & not worry about the long run outs. Chris will put the details on the wiki later.
All the best & thanx for the trax to the top!
Cheers Geoff

Lee Roberts and Stu Stanley managed to squeeze another new route in on Snowdon ( Trinity Face ) today. Sods Law IV-5. Takes a line between Cave Gully Left and Gwyn Ein Byw. Good effort chaps

Stu on Sods Law

The forecast for Tues and Wed looks like its warm again. However, there is more chance of snow and temps dropping again Thurs / Fri so might be good near the end of week/week end.

Back on for some

2011-01-02T16:46:00.001Z

Last night the temps dropped and we had a sprinkle of snow from about 500m upwards.

Reports of good neve in the gullies and a busy day on the Trinity Face. Pics later

Andy has been on Y Garn see his blog for more info

Pic of the Ladders today at 3.00pm.

Dank Day, Happy New Year & CBE

2011-01-01T17:38:00.006Z

Today has been a grey, cloudy and wet day. Light rain in the morning followed by a dry spell then more drizzel this afternoon.

Went on a ride around the park with a few other fellow climbers, blowing off last nights efforts. In the gaps in the low cloud, no snow high up, just a wet , cloudy, dank day.

Due to go cold this evening and over next few days.

Happy New Year folks, not the best start to a new year ref climbing conditions, but there still is another 2-3 months left. Fingers crossed.

Check out the link to see which legend has just got a CBE

Still Mild

2010-12-31T20:45:00.002Z

It has been quite warm over the last dew days. There is still snow lying in the gullies high up, but the crags are BLACK. Reports say of soft snow and un frozen turf high up.

It does look like the temp will drop Sat eve for at least a couple of days.

Any reports please feel free to send in.

Happy New Year

Bad Timing

2010-12-29T17:36:00.002Z

After all the good conditions, it is a shame they have not continued over the Xmas break and into the new year.

There has been a big thaw. However, there was a considerable amount of snow high up so there is a chance a lot will stay.

Due to go cold soon, but that keeps changing.

Fingers crossed.

Those sweets taste so good( part 2 )

2010-12-27T11:25:00.006Z

In a previous posting, I reported that Tim Neil and Nick Bullock were going round North Wales as excited as kids in a sweet shop.

Well they show no way of slowing down as the links from Ray Wood and DMM give you all the details

Part Two

Part One

Hope you all enjoyed a great Xmas and managed to get out.

Time To Say Thanks

2010-12-25T16:04:00.005Z

Today and Boxing day is time to remember our forces who I consider to be doing an amazing job.

Camp Bastion

Also

Happy Xmas to you all.

Cheers

Baggy

PS Tim Neil and Nick Bullock show no sign of slowing down, couple of top ice fall ascents, more news in the week.

Plenty to go At

2010-12-23T17:43:00.016Z

Thursday Lee Roberts, Stu Stanley and myself went up to the East Face of Bristly Ridge. We did the first winter ascent of great Tower Buttress HS 4B

This gave in our mind a 3 star outing with four quality pitches, IV-4 / V-7 / V-5 / V-6 ( overall V-7 ) Bit of a wade to get up but another great day out. Quite Cairngorm like.

Lee on Crux

Baggy on P3

Stu on P4

Hi Baggy

Just to keep you informed of life in the deep south!

Nant Cafn fall is the name of the attached picture, near Llanymawddwy. Very wet surprisingly since it was minus a lot I think, and hard to get off the ground. Lots of deep powder to wade through!

Daf Davis..............pulling over the top whining about being wet! What could I say! Cheers Andy Hall

Even if the locals are not here, there is always a way. Chris Guest bags a new route of the Dovestones on his Xmas break.

Hi Baggy,

Tortoise and the Hare VI 6

1st Pitch 6 130ft - Climb up Initiation corner for 50ft to grassy ledge. Traverse right(5m) to gain the scooped groove of Whipper In. Follow this leftwards moving out round its left edge to a pedestal. Continue up turf and cracks to a large flake. Traverse right and belay in the cave.
2nd Pitch 6 30ft - Exit the cave rightwards and hang tough!
3rd Pitch 5 40ft - Climb the wall just left of the chimney of Browns route to reach the top.

Cheers Chris

Pics of Rob T seconding.

Also a late post last time, so some might not have seen it.

Tim Neil and NickBullock have been like kids in a sweet shop of late FULL DETAILS AND SOME TOP PICS FROM RAY WOOD AND THE TEAM - VISIT DMM SITE

Appendix has been in nick last few days and had a few ascents some exciting !!

Owen Hayward on Appendix - from turf to ice in a few days - Not a bad xmas present

Those Bloody Texts and Calls-Major New VII-7's In One Day plus other routes. - Wales Is K A

2010-12-21T21:46:00.021Z

The Psyche continues, the game is upped and North Wales keeps giving the UK top Product.

Amongst all the deep snow and chaos the boys are still out knocking out the product and the grades rise.

Bring it one.

4 new routes in two days at V-6, VI-6, VII-7 and another VII-7 ( Actually make that a few more see V12 and DMM links for all the news )

Tim Neil and Nick Blullock bagged a super line which they had been looking at for some time. Central Route ( summer line VS ) on Llech Ddu at VII-7. Tim and Nick raved about the route on the phone " one pitch is as good as any pitch on Central Grooves up North or Black Cleft " said Tim " Best route I have done in Wales " was Nick's view. Wow that is some praise as these chaps have done a few routes in their time.

The route follows the summer line taking in obvious winter deviations along the way. Lots of snow walking in, snowing all day and more snow on the way out gave the full experience. With Nick being a little modest on his grading could it be harder ?

Tim and Nick have been like kids in a sweet shop of late FULL DETAILS AND SOME TOP PICS FROM RAY WOOD AND THE TEAM - VISIT DMM SITE

Next on the blower was Owen Hayward who with Martin Land ( His first route on the Ladders ) climbed a new route in between Gerlan Heights and Gallipio on the Black Ladders. Yr Arianrhod ( Named after Hedd Wyn's Lass who apparently looked like this Celtic Lady ) Giving 4 pitches ( once your in the basin of Central Gully ) two at VI-6 and one at VII-7 . Owen was again praising the climbing with varied mixed ground, at times run out " classic ladders climbing" . Saying that is was as classic as Hedd Wynn and slightly harder gives an idea of the quality of the line. Having lead all but one pitch, snowing all day again the full experience was had by Owen with Martin well chuffed with his first route on the laders and his first VII- Not a bad day out then chaps and not a bad for someone who is into bouldering Owen !!!

Finally, Mr Parkin alongside Kieth Ball claimed two more lines on the Ladders, see the V12 link for full news.

For me, its been a day of suspense, texts, and calls, all the time wishing I was out there. Anyone know the feeling ?

This season has truly exploded and with a new guide out soon, ah that guide, the new guide which is now out of date !! cheers chaps it has been another mega season and its still December !

There is plenty scope out there, so expect more exciting reports and news as the routes fall.

Talking of scope, hears a good tale , sounds quality and scary !!

Baggy,

Been in the Kitchen today. Still deep powder, and was snowing heavily again as we left. We met someone coming off The Stream, which was apparently ok on the steep bits but was terrible in between. Teams queuing on The Ramp, which looked thin. Screen and Curtain were not in. A team started The Appendix but we didn't see them top out. Met another pair who backed off South Gully due to poor ice, although it was climbed later on. They went on to climb Stingray. We climbed Devils Drainpipe, which was very scary due to poor ice in the upper gully. Hopefully a bit better tomorrow?

Jamie Mac and Justin

Coming Out-Not Me Though !!!

2010-12-19T21:42:00.005Z

Hi baggy

Just quick update, clogwyn du was in great nick over the w/e. We did left hand - looks like got done again today according to UKC. A mate was on El Mancho but apparently they abbed off before the third pitch because the leader wasn't feeling well... turf was great though apparently. Couple of pics attached including a reminder to keep out of the way of flying lumps of ice!

I have lots of time off mid week at the moment but struggling to find people to do stuff with. Do you have email addresses for 'locals' who might be up for some mid week winter stuff?

Cheers,
Ad Booth

>

For those of you who have followed the blog over the previous two years you will be aware of a man called Al Leary. He was one of those closet winter climbers who would never admit to enjoying the white stuff.

Well things have taken a taken and he has come out, at last.

Baggy,

Wow, what a difference a couple of evenings make ! Total shocker !!
I don't think I've ever seen so much bleedin snow in one place ; It's
like Ogwen Valley has been transported to Scandinavia !!!

Think I may need some help and advice from your audience ? My
previously discussed dark affliction is slowly , but surely returning
and now hangs around my neck like an Albatross.

The winter solstice ( 23.38 pm, December 21 ), is usually the catalyst
and inspiration for a Sun Rock trip. But now, instead of dreaming of
warm, sunny and fully bolted crags, I find myself awaiting the arrival
of an altogether different type of publication !

During the last spell of conditions, I declined the the magnetic draw
of " The Gold Coast ", in favour of another two routes in the shadowy
depths of Idwal ; I even asked to lead a pitch ! ( see attached pic of
Central Route ).

With enthusiasm building up to a frightening level, I pointed Sam at
an unrecorded finish on the upper wall. Fortunately the Wife is a bit
more experienced in these things, and quickly realised it would be far
too hard for myself. Even missing out on our moment of " interim "
fame, I still found myself almost having a good time !

So Baggy, what is to become of me ? I've already winter climbed for 5
months of this year ( which is about the same as my rock season ).
I'm about to run out of fingers to count the routes and I certainly
don't remember the last time this scenario cropped up !

Is all hope lost ? Is darkness ascending ? Has the light faded ?

Best regards from a worried, aspirant " Winter Man

CONDITIONS UP DATE

Ramp and screen climbed, thin though, stream in with lots snow on it .

Glyder Fach buried, but fun once you get there and dig in

Grib Goch on Sunday, no tracks at 7.30am from Pen Y Pass and so deep that party turned back on summit

Loads snow walking upto Parsley Fern, what was the point then said

Hard work into Ladders and R/H the only real thing in OK nick

Another new route amongst in the mix

2010-12-19T15:52:00.008Z

Well this afternoon has been stunning

Various reports have come in many informing me of things being a wade fest.

However,

Snow not stopping Tim Neil, he and Nick Bullock battled the snow on Saturday to do the first ascent of The Good Book. This fine new addition at VI-6 links a variety a sections from a few a rock routes ( which get little summer traffic ) well worth the slog to get there.

Nick Bullock on The Good Book P3

Yo Big Bad Baggy,
Think we did Camus today on Cloggy (Mike Pycroft & myself) but the descripton & photo in the old guide were not in agreement, so it could something else about IV 4! It was a very unpleasant slog up there in crotch deep snow (2hr 15min) & you won't get a vehicle along Victria Terrace, but we saw no one else there. The route was worth 3 stars & was in excellent nick, lots of gear & without too much snow to wade thru'. Views from the top were stunning. By the time of our return the path was also much more pleasant proposition. -8 by the time we got to 'Beris.
All the best,

Geoff

Rich Stone and the Booth team found , ice fall r/h on the ladders to be in good nick, Found being the word.

Rich also observed a stack of snow being deposited in various locations on the ladders.

18 inches and Jasmin White

2010-12-18T14:28:00.008Z

Another 6 inches of snow came down here last night, giving 18 inches where I live. Never seen so much snow in Wales.

Snow clearing the 2nd time after the plow had been down

The MET office got their forecast wrong for today, It was a beautiful day and it did not really snow

For me it was another keep fit session, firstly moving snow, secondly a run and finally making the most of the not so good climbing conditions by stacking up some DIY in the bag. So painting with Jasmin white and snow moving has meant a some what alternative day with the white stuff !!

Another picture of the car after Friday nights top up. I cleaned all the snow off Friday, before this dump

Hi Baggy,

Totally wild day Friday! ( Friday ) Took 3 hrs to drive from Shrewsbury (normally 1.5!) then 2hrs+ to wade through knee deep powder to colgwyn du! Clogwyn left hand was in awesome nick. Rapped off before the top because Ed had to get back... Good job; just taken another 3hrs to drive back! Keen for more saturday!

Cheers, Ad Booth

12 Inches

2010-12-17T15:57:00.008Z

Well, we are definitely not short of snow anymore.

Approx 12 inches of snow has fallen at my house between 3.00am and 2.00 pm. I live quite low down and on a bus route. However, their has been no movement, not even a sign of a snow plough. The odd 4/4 has come past. I have not seen such a big dump of snow so low down , before.

Outside my house at 9.00am today

Also the snow is powdery which is often not the case.

Not sure if it would be worth coming up the weekend, as most of the roads are closed today.

Anyway there are some keen bunnies around

Hi Baggy,

Totally wild day today! Took 3 hrs to drive from Shrewsbury (normally 1.5!) then 2hrs+ to wade through knee deep powder to colgwyn du! Clogwyn left hand was in awesome nick. Rapped off before the top because Ed had to get back... Good job; just taken another 3hrs to drive back! Keen for more tomorrow!

Cheers, Ad Booth

Jon Byrne & Geoff Bennet returned after failing to get into Upper Cwm Glas! School was closed so off they headed. Roads impassable without 4x4 or chains. Unfortunately chain on left wheel snapped @ Nant Peris. So they walked up to the "path" and then waded uphill for 1hr 20min. They were still well below the upper cwm & the snow was just getting ridiculously deep. There's so much snow up there you wouldn't believe it was Geoff's words; more like the Alps or Canada! Oh for some snow shoes or skis & skins!

They met a couple of blokes who got into the cwm & then turned round as everything was slushy.

Cheers for Geoff for the report.

Options around - Balancing Act

2010-12-15T21:49:00.005Z

Baggy,

The snow has firmed up nicely. Myself and Nick Mortley (current flag bearer of climbing in the deep South) rattled up RH Trinity, Ladies and Cave gullies today and there're good where neve lies and thin otherwise. Take care with the vegetation, the routes we climbed were well frozen.

All the best,

Huw.

Nick finding Cave Gullies rocky crux harder than any steep ice.

Cave Gully In really good condition some years ago ( Thanks to Al Leary PS this is the same section of climb as in above picture )

Best Xmas Present Ever

2010-12-13T20:21:00.007Z

North Wales Winter Climbing (Interim Guide)

Its new, its upto date, you need one, get one.

Based on the conditions over recent years, the enthusiasm and buzz in North Wales has been so inspiring that this has seen winter climbing in North Wales totally re-energised with new routes being climbed and winter climbing ambitions held for decades being achieved. North Wales is where it’s at; be part of it or regret for years to come.

Simon Panton (Ground Up guidebooks) and Mark ‘Baggy’ Richards (the man behind the popular North Wales winter blog: wwwbaggy.blogspot.com) are the co-authors of this exciting and bang upto date interim guide. In addition to this, valuable contributions have come from Tim Neil, Streaky Desroy, Owen Hayward, Rich Stone and Chris Parkin ( aka Mr Ladders )

It has been designed around the popular Ground Up format. It gives the reader information of all the new winter routes in North Wales, plus full definitive coverage and colour photo topos for all the major winter venues in northern Snowdonia (Ysgolion Duon, Llech Ddu, Cwm Glas Bach, Cwm Lloer, Glyder Fach, Clogwyn Du, Clogwyn y Geifr, Craig y Rhaeadr and Clogwyn y Garnedd). Finally, it also gives route information for the less popular crags.

Welsh Winter Renaissance

Recent years have seen superb winter conditions arrive in Snowdonia. This has lead to an unprecedented surge of winter climbing activity, fuelled in no small part by a rapid exchange of information, topos and conditions reports on the Internet. North Wales winter climbing is now more popular than ever. If you didn’t manage to climb in the winter seasons of 2009 and 2010 you certainly missed out on some of the best conditions in decades and fine clssics

The conditions created in these past two seasons have created an unstoppable momentum and will be talked about for years to come. Many of the classic ice routes formed, some that had not been in nick for a very long time - Central Ice Fall Direct and Maria, to name a few.

Mixed routes began to become a normal part of Welsh winter climbing, with many fine new additions and some classic repeats. One that needs mentioning is Andy Turners first free ascent of Cracking Up. This route high on Clogwyn Ddu, first put up by Nick Bullock comes in at a hefty grade IX9. Ray woods photo in Climber March 2010 makes you realise what a steep, strenuous and fine lead it was.

However, it was not all hard and new routes that were the focus of the past seasons. All the easy and mid grade classics were climbed on many occasions with all ability of climbers making use of these amazing conditions and enjoying the uniqueness of being in the hills in winter.

So, as this frenetic activity has triggered an explosion of new routes over recent years, plus a renewed focus upon the many neglected routes climbed since the old Welsh Winter Climbs guide was published in 1988, it became increasingly clear that a new winter guide was long overdue. And so the publication of the new North Wales Winter Climbing (Interim Guide) is both timely and a much needed guide.

It will hopefully inspire many more people to realise that Winter Climbing in North Wales is back with a vengeance and offers some of the most classic and inspiring winter routes to be found anywhere in the UK.

It is hoped the guide will be in North Wales climbing shops before Xmas, failing that Xmas hols/early Jan. From there it will be distributed nationally. The first outlet to purchase the guide will be V12 in Llanberis. Keep in touch with those guys for further updates.

Back to normal Biz

How do Baggy

Been up to Cwm Glas on Sunday, fair bit of ice and neve high up. Parley Fern left hand was well iced as was fantail gully. Thought they were much more sporting under these conditions good II's. Face route was very fat but the bottom 10ft had fell off, a day or so frost should mean a turf start would gain the ice safely.

Simon Lake has been up on the ladders today, monday and had found superb conditions on Icefall Gully, good ice and neve.

Cheers Rich Stone

Roadside Ice

2010-12-12T13:46:00.007Z

It just goes to show how keen some of us are, especially when work gets in the way.

Hey Baggy,

I think I may have climbed the most roadside ice route in the country! It's hard to beat. It is near Ganllwyd on the A470 in the South of the park. A new road section has just been built, which meant they had to dig a bit of the land to make room for the road. It has created about a 12m little slabby cragglet with enough drainage to ice up some micro routes that are 2m from the road! Good fun. Ar y ffordd goes at about grade II. I Only managed to do one of the routes after work on the 1st of December, but with another cold spell, there may be opportunity for more.

Steve Parry.

Steve on Roadside Ice

Report from Tim Neil on the Ladders. He went in today and quite a few other folk had the same idea. Cracking morning and it seems just the ice in places that is all that isleft from the thaw.

Today - Eastern Gully on the Ladders

With the cloud free of the summits today it was obvious how much snow had gone. High gullies should give good sport now the temp has gone back down.

Something to whittle the long dark nights way, whilst waiting for the conditions to re form.

Welsh Action at http://alpine-guides-blog.com/

V12 News

Erazorhead

Well that was good crack

2010-12-10T17:43:00.008Z

Well folks, what a stellar few weeks, some might say a break will do them good, get back on track, stack the point ups,
re charge and do some work ?

However, it does look like a good thaw has set in and the forecast is for it to stay warm until at least Monday. The amount of snow gone since yesterday is very noticable.

Shame it has not lasted for the weekend warriors, but hey its early doors and there is plenty more to come.

I think we would all agree the last few weeks have been remarkable, not only due to such a good spell early on but with the amount of new new routes having been climbed.

I am aware of approx 30 new routes having been climbed in North Wales over the last 2 weeks. This shows the passion and commitment that is coming out of North Wales and shows that one does not just need to go to Scotland for the winter.

With all these new routes and others there seems a need for a new winter guide ? More news on that on Sunday

The last few days have seen teams on all the main crags with Idwal being packed as the normal. There are other crags folks.

However, one crag which surprised the locals was Craig y Rhaeadr, even more so when Central Icefall Direct came into condition early this week. With this having formed twice this year , yes twice, then there were a steady stream of locals getting that ticked.

For many, this moment was one they had waited for, a long time

One team was Jamie Holding, John Cousins and Chris Forest. Jamie has bouldered the start out in 1978 and Chris Forrest and John had also wanted to do it for some thirty years apiece so you could say they waited ninety years for this one. So a dream achieved, the result ? no doubt their top tick has just been replaced. Lets hope they do not have to wait another 30 years !!

Jamie Holding heading out on to the icicle on Central Icefall Direct on Craig y Rhaeadr. If he does have to wait another 30 years then those Predators will be 46 years old.

You may have got the route of your dream ticked off. If not next time. Here is to next time.

How many new routes !

2010-12-08T18:11:00.003Z

The link leads you to all the details Enjoy

Big Numbers Fall

2010-12-07T20:24:00.009Z

Just heard from Simon Frost that our Friend Rob Gibson (chap who did Bambi M9 on the slate) has just done Cracking up !!
Simon Frost followed him up

Also Nick Bullock and Matt Heliker made the 2nd ascent of Erazorhead a route Simon Frost put up last season

Grrr Why do I have a full time job? !!!

Regards

Dave Gary

Hi Baggy

Got out with Jim from V12 today, amazing day and very busy in the south of the park. Probably about 6-7 teams on the falls

Thought I would send you a picture just to keep you awake at your desk!!!!

Maesglasau Falls

Adam Harmer

The ice lines in Idwal are giving a lot of sport

Its all shaping Up quite nice

2010-12-06T19:27:00.007Z

Martin Doyle and Ian Carr found solitude on Sunday

As the whole world seems to be heading for the Black Ladders we went to Cloggy Sunday. Climbed Jubilee Climb with Ian Carr. Rock climbing, turf and plenty of snow clearing. No one else on the crag - a great day out.

Cloggy

Hi Baggy,

Myself and two friends went into the Black Ladders on saturday (parking in the village of course). We saw four other teams about with Dave Barker saying that Pyramid Gully was holding good ice but a wade at the top. Conditions were warm all day but still a lot of ice lower down on the right. We got on The Some (V5) but it didm not seem in nick

Sunday we headed up to Clogwyn Du and climbed a combination of Clogwyn Central, and the top of Clogwyn Righthand Branch. Lots of folk out as expected and felt alot colder but very little ice on the left wall of Clogwyn Left Branch making for an adventurous looking V6 rock route a team was battling on.

Cheers Henry

Hi Baggy, up in the kitchen today. Superb and busy ice everywhere. Tim

Monday 6 Dec. Tim Jepson reports:

Two teams did Central Icefall Direct today, Matt Stygall and Adam Hughes just pipping Steve Long and Tim Jepson to the first ascent of the season. ( Matt and Adam were off to Idwal at 12.15 having had coffee in the Caban ) Although the temperature appeared to stay below freezing all day, there was quite a lot of water running behind the ice, and especially down the icicle, which combined with thin, brittle and hollow sections made for a steep and scary expedition. Interestingly, Cascade, whch normally forms before Central Icefall Direct would have been unclimbable today - just not enough build up to justify an ascent.

Photo attached: Matt Stygall leading the long, second pitch of Central Icefall Direct

Sunday - Its getting even better

2010-12-04T21:15:00.018Z

With me working over the weekend and well into next week then it looks like all i can do is write about others having a good time.

Saturday the temps went up and Sunday they went back down, Ideal for forming better conditions. With the long term still looking good how are you going to juggle life, work, the family and getting out.

Hi Baggy

Climbed Maesglasau Falls in the south of the park today and bumped into the farmer (very friendly) who I had a chat with. He is requesting that all climbers call at the farm on there way and on their return. This is purely from a safety point of view following a incident on the falls a number of years ago. I would ask that all climbers do this as we rely upon his good will as there is no formal access to the falls.

Cheers Nick Mortley

Maesglasau Falls

Thursday Olly ticked off what is now becoming a Welsh Classic Gallipoli V-5

Crux Pitch of Gallipoli

As report Gaz Davies did Oblique Gully first ascent last week and this shows the crux pitch

Hi Baggster

Good day with Tim and Dave on very snowy Ladders today - Hedd Wyn was cracking with sustained interest all the way - had to gid it out mind you! Similar overall feel to Flanders - less technical crux but bolder. Off width pitch is great.

Cheers

Owen Hayward

Owen also thinks he may have claimed a new boulder problem at Parisella's Cave

Saying that the link up was quite tricky, with quite a few slippery slopers but good friction his route come in V17-VIII-9. !!!! I know it says in Ground Up's North Wales Rock year round climbing in possible at the Orme. but this ??

A team were trying Travesty Direct on Sunday.

Confetti keeps falling

2010-12-03T19:21:00.003Z

More new routes visit link

Thinking of visiting Black Ladders ?

If so then consider the locals. There has been some crazy parking in Gerlan last week. We do need to consider that there is limited parking and the residents need to park. Also the farmer at the end of the road needs to get in and out with his trailer.

Do not be to miffed if you return and the side of your car is mangled, consider where you park.

Thanks the local climbing community

More New Routes When is it going to stop-Thursdays Report

2010-12-01T21:23:00.020Z

Rocio Siemens and Owen Samuel did the first winter ascent of the Crack at V-6 ?

Rocio on the Crack ( Yes she is sponsored by Adidas )

Other news

Idwal is forming very quickley

Alistair Borrett on The Screen

Andy and Helen Teasdale climbed South Gully on Wednesday confirming what Alistair mentions ref conditions. Pic south Gully

Tim Neil and Chris Parkin AGAIN !!!! did the 2nd ascent of Tabasco Fiasco and Arch Gully saying top climbing was had on Arch Gully. if you see them out try and slow then down somehow ??

Ah up Baggy

Been for a late afternoon / evening soire up the ladders bumped into Miles and ?? on their way back from doing Artic Fox. Stumbled around in the dark and eventually found the bottom of Follow Thru first pitch was hard and thin V5 and scary. After this found a new varyiation line to the right of Swerving the Follow Thru mixed and turfy 4, 4, 3, 2 sugary powder making evrything quite wearing, some turf good but a lot of fluffy choss.
Av It!
Rich Stone

Hi Baggy

Me dave rudkin and john orr did hedd wyn on the ladders today. The route is awesome and in fab nick at the mo. off width is outrageous!!!!!! can confirm grade at VII 6/7. ( Phil this will be 2nd ascent of the route nice one Baggy ) Phil Dowthwaite

Phil Dowthwaite on Hedd Wyn

4 more new routes to hit North Wales

2010-12-01T18:01:00.002Z

Full details of these new routes follow link and scroll down

HI Baggy,

Devils Kitchen today, many routes coming in quickly.
Idwal stream as good as I’ve seen in years, great last steep pitch
South Gulley a little thinner that last winter but had lots of traffic today.
Central Gulley - thin, thin and now thinner – bold for a grade three and delicate necky climbing in places. Be careful if this is someone first grate three.
Top Pitch of Grecian could be done now too, looks great.
The Screen, steep and sustained again harder than last winter but plenty there.

The ramp is complete.

Curtain almost in, Devils Pasture looks almost climbable as is.

Devils Pipes, this may be climbable, thin and bold but certainly there.

Appendix forming well as it Cellars and Sting.

Alistair Borret

Not a week in and It is not even December

2010-11-30T18:32:00.011Z

Info from Tuesday

Chris Guest made the second ascent of Devils Dive in the kitchen, thinking the grade more VI than V-6

Steve and Mark climbed Gallipoli on the ladders reporting hard climbing conditions for the grade with little ice.

Conditions from the Kitchen

Minus 4oC at route base, still lots of powder except where its been packed down by walkers on the path. Teams were on Idwal stream and The Ramp. Most pure ice lines still not quite there but maybe doable for the bold. We climbed Coldhouse Crack, which was great fun, although the lack of ice means its more reliant on turf and even a bit of dry tooling! The turf is frozen where it needs to be but is not freezing yet under blanketing snow. If anyone does this route please can they have a go at retrieving our DMM Bulldog just below the top - its rammed in a crack. We ran out of time to retrieve it and we will buy a beer if anyone returns it (079068 191969).

Cheers Jamie

Photo Rob Johnson Collection

Parsley Fern Gully

Monday

Tim Neil and Phil Dowthwaite made a rare ascent of Passchendale Direct VI on the ladders . Awesome route, deserves lots of repeats. Grade IV ice routes all in on the ladders, routes on Central Buttress in best nick. Guesty and John Orr followed us up Passchendale Direct after bailing off Canon Rib, due to lack of rime

Phil on Passchendale Direct

A team climbed Great Gully on Craig Yr Ysfa a top Cold Climb tick

The stream and ramp got climbed a few times

Sunday

Steve Joyson made the second ascent of Mia's fashion Parade Cwm Glas Bach which is a route of Baggy's and Gaz Davies from Feb 2010

Hi Baggy,

Great start to the season, its all happening

Me, my bro Ed, and mate Roel, climbed Jubilee climb on Sunday. Occasionally some soft turf (I think just the turf with deep snow covering it), but mostly very good conditions, and most of the turf bomber. Cracking route!

All the best,
Ad Booth

New routes already

2010-11-29T14:26:00.007Z

Big news so far this winter is two new routes put up on Sunday 28th November

For full details visit this link

In additon to this Tim Jepson, as reported on Sunday climbed on the Black Ladders. He was with Luke Thomas and the route they did was actually called Hoyland's Route not Holland Route.

They found it to be an excellent route with the turf in good condition. Worth Grade 4 taken fairly direct, well-protected, nowhere very serious.

An ascent of Jubilee Climb on Cloggy was made on Sunday. Not sure on full details

Its not even December Yet

2010-11-27T17:47:00.004Z

It has been a wonderful day , early cloud moved to give a fine bright day and a cold one at that

Hi Baggy

Did Eastern Gulley on Glyder Fawr today, although we had a great day and first route of the year, it definitely could do with a bit more snow and ice build up, a bit optimistic heading up there today really. Things are definitely coming in all round though, the ice routes at the back of Cwm Idwal are all starting to form. Its going to be a good one!

Greg Cain

Photo

Tryfan Mike Peacock Collection ( Saturday 27th Nov 010 )

It has Kicked Off

2010-11-26T19:07:00.006Z

Well its cold, with snow down to 200m and a reasonable amount.

Teams have been climbing in the Carneddau and the Glyders, over the last few days with one team even having a crack at Travesty VIII-7

Its hard to believe that only a few years ago routes such as this were awaiting second ascents, now climbers are mad for it even at the beginning of the season.

It is going to be a bumper season, just you wait and see

Turf is froze high up and there is plenty of snow

Get out, enjoy and get stuck in.

A report from Tim Jepson one of the main contributors of last season clocks in early

Friday 26 November

Tim Jepson and a group from the Sports science (Outdoor Activities) degree at Bangor University had an excellent day's winter mountaineering doing a more or less direct, roped ascent of Bristly Ridge today. The snow was deep and soft and allowing them to leave crampons off, but an axe was really useful for clearing, hooking and the odd turf placement.
There was no one around today but with a good forecast, i can imagine that routes like this will get a hammering over the weekend.

Clogwyn Ddu from Rob Jonhson Collection

Looking Good for weekend

2010-11-25T19:18:00.001Z

More snow fell Thursday afternoon and with the current forecast looking cold, then certain mixed routes will be in nick over the weekend. Forget gullies as currently there is not enough snow and there has been no cycle.

Never mixed climbed, get some summer scrambles done in winter nick

Thursday AM

2010-11-25T09:28:00.001Z

Good frost this morning at low level. Hail frozen on ground at 100m and the temp has gone cold.

Bit more of a dusting on the tops

Black ladders ( and before you ask they are nowhere in nick )

Wed Eve

2010-11-24T22:26:00.003Z

Snow falling and covering the main road as i left Capel Curig at 10.00 pm wednesday eve. Could this be the start ?

Good Signs

2010-11-24T08:20:00.003Z

On Monday there was a covering of snow down to approx 500m on the north side of the park. Further West/South less so. Tuesday the temps had warmed up and the snow was just a slight dustings on the tops, again with the North having slighty more

This morning its hailing at 100m and the forecast is for it to go cold and to snow above 500m with FL at 700m.

The forecast for the next 5 days is good with snow forecast and low temps. I think Saturday/Sunday you may be able to go climbing on some of the mixed routes, the temps look cold enough over the next 5 days, depends if the ground freezes before the snow comes.

Carneddau on Tuesday Morning

Wet and Windy

2010-11-18T08:02:00.005Z

Any thought of an early winter quickly disappeared. With wet and windy weather now back on the menue.

A picture of Snowdon I took this Tuesday

The following picture is thanks to Steve Joynson who made the most of the early snow ( last week ) up in Nameless Cwm

Welcome Back-The first Signs have arrived.

2010-11-10T19:35:00.006Z

Is it really this time of the year ? I am shocked at how quick it has come round. Is it good to be back ?
On one hand its great, on the other hand no. Why no ? Well if we have a winter like last year how much work is that going to be with the the passion you all have and I am sporting an elbow injury which has put be out of action for the last 2 months.

No before you say it ? I am not going to spend all winter writing about the climbing and not getting out. Well maybe !

I Hope you have had a great summer and are gearing up for a another good winter. We can only hope for a repeat of last year. It might happen with many long term forecasts suggesting a cold winter. Only time will tell.

Last Saturday night the first real snow arrived and Sunday found the mountains covered in snow down to approx 500-600 mts and clear blue skies. A friend of mine Adrian Haliwell had a great day on Arenig Fawr walking, another friend, Rich Stone going for trip up East Face of Tryfan reporting wet snow high up.

Monday delivered more snow and the mountains looked very white down to 500ms . I reckon that you could have got out and had good mixed sport on the high scrambles and the odd mixed climb.

Tuesday was a cold day and today was a fantastic day However, the snow has started to disappear.

So the signs are here

Tuesday Evening

The end, its been emotional, and the big interview to finish this amazing season.

2010-03-22T21:47:00.012Z

Well folks

Its all over. Yep there is a bit of snow around, but the season is really over.

AND WHAT A STONKER IT HAS BEEN

The amount of routes done this winter, the buzz , the crack, the scene, the banter, the reports, yes those bloody reports.

You lot have truly kept me busy this year. But hey its been worth it.

I really need a rest and this is the last post of this season.

To think I did my first route back in November, not sure if I could carry on. Never thought I would say that !!!

I truly thank you all for all your enthusiasm and commitment.

I cannot thank you all personally as the list is so long, but A HUGH thanks must go to

Tim Jepson
Tim Neil

for the vast amount of reports, days out and enthusiasm to the blog and Welsh Winter. Bastards kept me on my toes all season

See you all next November, take it easy, get training, and thanks again. Baggy

NOW FINALLY THAT BIG INTERVIEW.

I felt privileged to be able to interview the enchanted and gorgeous Esme Neil.

Esme is the long suffering daughter of Tim Neil. A very astute young lass with cracking looks, taking after her mother Lou , Eseme kindly offered me her insight to the Welsh Winter.

My time with her was lovely and I cannot thank her enough. Read and enjoy.

Q -What is your view on Tim's desire to climb every ice/snow route in the UK and in particular North Wales.

A- I do struggle to see the attraction at times, I mean one route is like the next, is it not ? , but when Tim comes bounding through the door and I see the smile on his face I suppose there must be some attraction.

Q-What do you make to all these grades.

A- Again fuss over nothing. I feel that in a few years time anyone will be climbing grade VIII . I mean its no big deal. Most of the grades are all easy anyway.

Q - Its a bit of a hub your place at times, vagrants just turning up at the door.

A - I quite like that, I mean some of Tim's mates are quite spicy. Take that Bullock chap, good body, good looks, if only I was a few years younger. That Toby Kepp is quite cute, but he is spoken for. All these men. Often when Tim's out my mom and I discuss which man we would like to turn up at the door.

Q - Talking of mates are they all climbers.

A - Mainly, but while Dad was away I had a night on the town with all the paddlers form PYB. What a night that was. Must do it again. Not sure if my Dad would approve, but that Catterall lad had is eye on me, tasty.

Q - Is climbing your first love

A - No way, I mean why would it be. Fuss over nothing. I am keen to have my own horse, Yacht, and fancy more kayaking and diving in the med. Oh and a nice Villa in Paris.

Q - Give me a pet hate of the Welsh Winter

A - All those guides and climbing mags my dad has all over the hse, always reading, on the phone on the net. What is it with snow.

Q- How has your winter been.

A - Very relaxed, plenty of attention, lots of gifts, mom has been an star, so has dad really, mind you a few upset stomachs, not sure why oh and plenty of wind. A really good first season.

It was obvious that Eseme would love to carry on the interview, but I had to leave, so just one last question from me.

Q - Who do you has been the biggest influence on your dad this season.

A - No hesitation, that Baggy Chap.

Sabotage

2010-03-17T21:52:00.005Z

I suppose its my own fault.

Whilst away enjoying some classic Scottish conditions a closet winter climber came in under cover.

Dare I say, I thought they did a good job.

Lets see what else they might have to say.

On a sad note. I think we are near the end of the Welsh winter for this season, but is not quite over yet.

2010-02-27T21:55:00.007Z

Now there is a break in the never ending supply of quality info and pictures I can update you all on more new routes.

First off

In the period of heavy snow back in January of this year, Gaz Davies and I skied from the car up to the base of the crag that day.

We put up two new routes.

A V-6 consisting of 3 pitches and a VI-6 ( Mr P's Last Great Problem ) consisting of two pitches. This last route gave continually interesting and awkward climbing all the way to the top.

Below the picture shows me on the crux of the second of our new routes that day.

Mr P's Last Great Problem

The last problem for me was trying to ski out in Freny XT boots in Fritschi bindings.

Also, I will be away in Scotland for approx 10 days, working for Jagged Globe on their climbing courses.

Therefore, I will not be in a position to update blog. I hope conditions become good.

On a last note if you have not visited the link on Eight below then have a look

Cheers

Baggy

EIGHT

2010-02-24T07:19:00.001Z

I promised big news, so click here and enjoy

Erics Answer

2010-02-23T18:38:00.006Z

The Somme, an answer for Eric.

You undoubtedly did do The Somme, Eric, and you are right, the guidebook/topo description is poor. When Owen and I did it a couple of weeks ago, the line was absolutely obvious as a slab of ice on otherwise bare rock and turf. Only the easy-angled ledges had snow on them. We split the two main pitches by taking the belay, which you climbed past, on the left at the top of the initial steep groove. We then climbed up to clip the sling on the chockstone as a side runner, before stepping right from the belay to climb the ice on the slab, run-out, but technically straightforward. We didn't have to climb the corner/groove to the left of the slab at all, but I can believe that this appeared to be the better option with all the snow around on Sunday - good effort! I spoke to Chris Forrest and he had clearly done the same as you a few days earlier.

Tim Jepson

This picture shows the iced slab, the sling on the chockstone and the turfy corner, looking up the big pitch of The Somme. Owen Hayward leading.

Also another ascent of El Mancho. Good to have some pics of the girls on the blog as its always the guys.

Rachael Hinchliffe top of first main pitch

Nothing then everthing at once.

2010-02-22T18:21:00.008Z

As the title says, it all comes at once

The big news story will be here on Tuesday

In the meantime

Sunday 21st February - Black Ladders

After another overnight snowfall, a dozen local climbers broke an early Sunday morning trail from Gerlan, heading optimistically for the Black Ladders.
As the snow got deeper, optimism gave way to realism and plans were modified to match potentially difficult and dangerous conditions. In the event, the snow, though soft and deep, appeared to be reasonably well-bonded to the neve beneath and showed little evidence of wind deposition, even in the upper reaches of the crag. Groups disappeared into the mist, climbing Pyramid and Central gullies (amongst others?), enjoying tremendous winter sport by sweeping snow off the ice and rock, digging out belays and swimming their way up the easier sections. Adventurous, technical, physical and sociable .... a great mix!

Tim Jepson
Dodi Palmer
Dave Williams

Picture

Deep snow on the slopes beneath Central Gully

We think we climbed the Somme yesterday, but it was our first visit the crag and with visibility being fleeting we don’t know so!

The bit that’s confusing us is the description of a ‘pedestal stance’ at the end of the 3rd pitch (first proper pitch above the snow terrace at the base). From the big snow terrace after the introductory gully I climbed a cruddy iced corner groove, with reasonable rock gear at first, for about 30 metres to a ledge and crack on the left (should have belayed here!) and a large chockstone 5 metres above (newish sling and small bail out krab on this). I went under the chock and chimneyed up the back of it, before making hard skittery moves to reach some better turf. I wish we’d bailed too, instead of climbing another 35 metres of terrifying thin snow/ice crud up the continuing rightwards slanting corner groove, to a final steep pull over a bulge to the upper snow terrace. As we’d run out of rope and there was no decent kit at all we simul climbed – yikes.

Obviously conditions weren’t great, but the Somme got done last week and your blog suggests people backed off on Saturday (the sling round the chockstone was the only gear we found). The only route I can find with a description of a chockstone is Arctic fox, but the topo for that doesn’t square with the first III gully pitch we climbed to reach the snow terrace. Description of Post war doesn’t sound right either.

So maybe one man’s pedestal is another chockstone and we were just on The Somme in poor conditions. Wish we knew as it was the most harrowing day of the winter so far and we still can’t quite make sense of the description!

Cheers

Eric Hildrew

Clogwyn Ddu was bust again, lots of action.

Phil Dowthwaite on El Mancho

Saturday and late BIG news

2010-02-21T18:21:00.011Z

Late News 9.00pm Sunday eve

Wales is kicking folks, more big news to follow Monday eve. Its unbelievable this winter.

Friday delivered a dump of snow to the hills, which in a way was a shame as it buried lots of good routes that were in good nick. Yes, certain crags need some snow but not quite this much. However, it does mean there is more snow to resist a thaw.

Jonny Ratcliff and I headed up to the R/H side of the Ladders to have a go at Sarajevo. Unfortunately, there was a layer of cruddy neve covering the turf which itself was a little soft in places so we bailed.

Jon On Sarajevo

We moved about 20-30m right of L/H icefall and soled to the top of the crag taking in some good IV sections of ice and mixed ground.

From here over the crag X to do another new route. This came in at VI-6 with two pitches of 45m of good and varied climbing. Not the hardest of VI-6,s as it had good gear but we thought a really good route.

Jon starting pitch 2 of the new route

Toping out to a moonlit sky with no one around was a nice end to the day.

Teams were on Pyramid Gully , Central and L/H Icefall and teams backed off the Somme.

Sunday it snowed some more in the morning but overall another nice day. .

Sunday, Si Panton and team did the 2nd ascent of Arch Gully on Glyder Fach which myself and Owen Samuels climbed last winter. Si mentioned the words brilliant route and worthy of stars.

The Old Guard Kick ASS leaving the young guns behind with VIII-8 on the cards

2010-02-19T18:34:00.019Z

Chris Parkin, having already established himself as one of UK's leading new routes activists over the last 15 years has really pulled it out the bag this week.

Tora Bora, his new route, where else but the Ladders, comes in at at hefty VIII-8. This is only the second grade VIII-8 to hit Wales.

Chris as usual played down such a fine effort and contribution to UK winter climbing when I spoke to him on the phone saying " it was a bit sketchy in places, with a few scary moves, but overall not to bad.

Having already claimed VII-8 and VII-7 on the ladders in the previous 12 months, what next ? Maybe the next 9-9 . Well Chris is off to Scotland for the weekend maybe for a rest ? The old Welsh Winter Guide seems to dismiss Chris's routes of that era, not realising what an impact these were going to have in the modern world and on current climbers.

This is a major new line for UK winter climbing on one of the best crags in the UK. Chris has a habit of finding lines through impressive terrain that many others dismiss. There is one secret ingredient of Chris's which Nick Bullock the other climber to add grade VIII-8 to Wales has . They both have big !!!! when it come to having it.

This is magazine front page coverage, not repeats of routes done years ago.

Pete Harrison aka Mr Winter Wiki had done 1 route this season due to injury before pairing up with Chris for this route.

Speaking to Pete he commented

"After a winter spent shuffling along Llandudno prom with the rest of the elderly/infirm population, yesterday I went to Ysgolion Duon with Chris Parkin and spent the whole day being scared back into winter climbing. My first time climbing with Chris - what a legend/psycho/highly talented climber! We did a very direct new route up a series of corners and grooves on the buttress in between the grooves of Imminent Conflict and Broken Cease Fire, Chris led the hard pitches. The crux pitch goes up a corner crack on torques, hooks and turf, a brief rest and then topped off with a tricky verglassed slab with more torquing in a crack to reach the turf above.

It's the best winter pitch I've climbed - 45 metres of technical, sustained and pumpy mixed climbing which keeps on coming, with only adequate hard-fought gear, a brilliant lead by Chris who took a whinger onto his axes at one point. That pitch by itself would be worth doing the walk-in and route for, a five star pitch if ever there was one but the other pitches are good and challenging too, the final one being 40-45 metres of serious grade 5 turfy corner which Chris basically soloed, the loon"

The route Tora Bora, 300m, VIII 8. - has 7 pitches - three of 3/4, one of 4, one of 5, one of 6 and one of 8. Bring a good selection of pins, turf pro, and a desire to strap it on. Neither of us had a camera so no photos.

Cheers Pete

IT Does not end there, oh no, the locals are mad for it, once one gets new routing they are all after a piece of the action. Lew Hardy one of Chris's partners back in the 90's when they did other new routes on the ladders was back at the crag today. Maybe he needed to get one back on Chris ?

Anyway, he and his partner Jamie Mac headed up to the Black Ladders. On the Ladders a thin layer of fresh snow covered still good neve. Although there was a lot of water running all the ice lines looked in condition. They did a new line 30m right of Ice Fall Gully Right Hand. The first pitch may have been climbed previously (any claimants?) but their continuation gives a direct line with the first two picthes sustained and nicely contrasting. It was Jamie's first new route, so he says he has to be biased, but Lew has done plenty of routes in his many years; he had a silly grin on as well so its gotta be worth a star or two! The only one other pair in the cwm today were on Jacob's Ladder. It snowed as we descended and the temperature dropped considerably, so hopefully all good for the weekend.

And the Band Played Waltzing Matilda
IV 4, 4, 1/2, 3, 1/2 *
Lew Hardy and Jamie Macdonald, 18.02.10

Another new route comes in the form of Snake Bite Direct on Snowdon climbed last weekend my Mark Lynden and Lew Hardy ( what has he lined up next I wonder )

Finally after waiting 20 years Martin Crook and Nick Walton claimed Cwm Raider IV-4 down near Beddgelert

So the Old Welsh Guard have truly stuffed us all this last week. Nice one chaps, give us some more

Well how do I sleep tonight with so much excitement in Wales. It is the place to be and believe me there is stacks of new lines out there.

What a day, what a forecast, bring it on for the weekend warriors

2010-02-17T11:58:00.007Z

Anyway in the meantime a report which came in Monday ENJOY !!

Ex Tenebris Lux ( Out Of Darkness, Light ).

Baggy,

I was rather pleased to hear about your recent sabbatical to the " Gold
Coast " of Tremadog. It seems that you have now reached an emotional
and spiritual crossroads. On one side lies the Gateway to Shangri-La ;
on the other, a long and slippery road leads to the " Caverna Desparium
".

A brief history lesson may help you find the strength to fight through
this affliction.

The Protogenos Nyx had a habit of conjuring up a dark veil of mist from
the Underworld which would obscure the shining blue light of Aither.
Fortunately, her daughter Hemera was quite adept at dispersing the
mist, and once again the earth would be bathed in glorious, golden
light.

So Baggy, which one of the above ladies would you prefer to hang out
with ? I certainly know which one I'd prefer to buy a drink for !

Amazing what you can remember from repeats of Xena, Warrior Princess !

Now that you have returned to the true path, it felt only right and
proper to reciprocate the returned compliment, by going back out again.

Daemones Tenebraun ( Demons of Darkness )

The physio department ay Ysbyty Gwynedd have suggested it would be
beneficial to strengthen my left knee, so a quick jaunt up Y Garn,
seemed just the ticket ; besides, the intro in the guide referring to
" a mountain for reflective old age " hit a chord !

The snow runnels were bullet hard, in fact, it's probably the most
squeaky and pristine snow I've been on all century !

Following the initial slope of Banana, Gully,then branching left onto
and following ( what I presume was ) CD Buttress, led past a tricky,
well positioned final step to the summit and sunshine.

Surprising myself in how long the route hadn't taken, and the fact
that it was a grand day, another idea took hold. Clogwyn Du didn't
look that far away ( remind me to get my eyes tested !

Anyhow to cut a very long walk, short, I did eventually make it to the
rim of the Cwm, but not before being spotted by the PYB Winter
Skills course. Damit, I'll have to tweak that disguise even more !

By now I was resembling living proof of life after death ( a fact
noticed
by " Big Guns " Jim, who seemed a bit worried when I didn't answer
him ). Sorry Jim and Matt, but my knee was by this point trembling,
and I was having to concentrate quite hard to avoid becoming a
" Downhill Racer " ! Made it down though, then nipped up Hidden
Gully for old times sake, and rather fine it was too.

Pillar Chimney looked well iced, however L.H. Chimney looked a
touch thin at the start ( well iced on the top half though ) ; and with
that, my tally has now hit 4 routes. Can't remember the last time I
did that many routes in a single winter ! Unfortunately, I've just
seen the latest meteo, and no sign of spring arriving just yet.

Mind you, the very next day, Helen Barnard and myself did find a
blip in Winter and climbed a few sunny routes at Craig y Forwen.
In fact, it was almost too warm, but thankfully I'd packed my vest
which almost matches the Mediterranean Azure of the sky.

It's not too long now till the Spring Equinox Baggy, so hopefully
the attraction of this winter lark ( which is still a lot of faff ),
will
be short lived.

Till later

AL

Today has been a stunner, the snow which has fallen over recent days has truly put most crags above 600 back on the map and with cold temps over the next few days, bring it on.

2010-02-16T22:00:00.006Z

A few pics of the the route Follow Thru on the ladders we climbed last Saturday.

First Pitch

Second Pitch

The weather has dropped snow above 600-ish mts and its been cold so crags are back to white and things look v good.

2010-02-15T19:35:00.000Z

Sunday

Went up to Clogwyn y Garnedd on Sunday with Dafydd Davis and Streaky. Dafydd has been banging on to me about the chimney groove line in the left wall of Cave Gully for years (referred to as Gwyn Ein Byd on the wiki), so that was what I went for. Although looking fairly innocuous from below (don’t they all!) this gave a superb and sustained pitch, with an easy exit pitch leading up to the crag top above. We reckoned V 5 in moderrn Scottish grades and definitely a couple of stars - a great route in fact. Dafydd said there was an alternative exit out right at the top - easier, but bolder.

There is also another groove on the left wall a bit further up the gully, and a vague snaking groove on the right wall – Dafydd has done both of these previously and reckoned they were also good, if a little easier.

We then went for a look at Couloir, doing an entertaining little corner approach pitch on the left then doing another easy pitch swinging round into the main line, where Dafydd found a really crap belay about a third of the way up the groove. Streaky went to lead through up the middle section of the groove, but gave up after encountering a succession of poor/ripping turf placements, and of course, no runners. We then had a series of spooky down climbs with crap belays to perform to get off the crag. There was heavy snow during this period – must have been 2 – 3 inches.

Spoke to Miles Perkin this morning; he also did Gwyn Ein Byd on Saturday, and then did Cave Buttress which he said was gnarly and serious, and not really recommended. Mark Lynden and Lou Hardy were also out on Saturday doing a previously undocumented line right of Right Hand Trinity.

There were a couple of other teams out in the morning on Sunday, and perhaps more later, but visibility had gone by then so not sure.

The attached pic is me setting off on Gwyn Ein Byd.

Cheers,

Simon Panton

New route, another quality weekend, ladders features again . When will it end ?

2010-02-14T19:30:00.020Z

Saturday

Wishing to avoid the crowds I decided to go to the ladders. Rich Stone had sent details of good ice and and a route he soled on Thursday being in great nick. This route, was thought not to be in the guide and even though it may have been climbed he could not find anyone who had. So with this in mind he named the route and posted it on the wiki. Rich came along with Adam Harmer and I today and took a sharp exit after climbing the route with us to see the Rugby.

The route gives 4 pitches. 3 pitches of grade IV ice with snow and mixed in between, then grade 2 bomber neve up to the summit ridge. The route which is now called Follow Thru is considered to be between Daybreak and Finale and comes in at IV-5. Done before ? maybe ? , but needs a name and recording as its good. ( Is it actually be Daybreak ) However there are 3 lines in this area see below

Follow Thru goes up R/H ice line. Daybreak thought to be 1 to left.

Adam and I then visited Crag X ( called for the time being ) and climbed a new route. Short by ladders standards but still giving a v good interesting climb. P1- 20ms at 2-III, P2 40ms at IV-6 and P3 20ms at V-6. This we called. Helmand Province.

After this we went and visited the R/H side of Craig Daffyd where we climbed another route which Rich had done last week. Again not recored he has named it Wayward Prong. This goes at grade IV-5. A short route at P1 15ms II- P2 55ms IV-5 then P3 50ms II-3. Nice route.

Adam on 2nd pitch of Wayward Prong

All the ice was bomber today, quite hard in places and as expected turf and neve were mega quality.

The mad thing about today was apart from the 2 folk we passed on the walk we came across no one.

Central, Eastern, Western ( looked !!! ) got ascents Saturday.

Also Poppies got its second ascent today by Mr Ladders Parkin.

Saturday many aspects of the crag were quite black apart from the upper reaches. However with new snow forecast tonight and through this week, it will be again the place to be.

Sunday 14th February - Black Ladders

Where is everybody?

For the second weekend running, Tim Jepson and Dodi Palmer got an early start 'knowing' that there would be a lot of climbers wanting to get on the relatively few winter climbs still in condition. But for the second weekend running they were mistaken, and found themselves climbing more or less alone ....... this time on the Black Ladders! Icefall Gully only gets one star in the guidebook, but Tim and Dodi found four long, excellent pitches of ice weaving a natural line up a series of steep grooves and slabs, leading into a huge bowl of bomber neve and iced rock. Definitely a three star route today, set on a magnificent cliff of scottish proportions. For much of the day there was light snow falling quietly through a windless mist, but it had turned to rain by the time we got back to the road. Only time will tell whether this new snow will bring more routes into condition, or whether the warmer air will spoil the existing ice.

Tim Jepson
Dodi Palmer

Dodi on R/H Icefall on Sunday

The Somme

Hi Baggy

Just read your blog posting from the guy that went to the ladders yesterday - the Somme looked thin to me and Tim too but, once on it, it was all there and in fact in great condition - well recommended. The only thin bit was near the top of the first pitch above the terrace (3rd pitch) where ice ran out at top of groove giving a couple of mixed moves before starting again. Possibly worth 6 for this pitch in these conditions. The main icefall was thin (all tied off screws) but in stonking nick otherwise.

Owen and Tim

Back to last week

As noted above, Rich Stone has been out on the Ladders last week. Apart from Follow Thru and Wayward Prong he also
soloed an entertaining line on the ladders wednesday 10th. Up eastern, right arete of playschool 1st pitch 3/4, steep narrow 4 ice that exits top left of 1st snow field (done by Ian whitehead on sunday with escape back along ledges to eastern). Then directly up arete between eastern and playschool well exposed 3/4.

Fast Track for Russell

2010-02-12T18:08:00.005Z

HI Baggy,

Managed to head up to Clogwyn Du, Empty, crag to myself for two hours so blitz it – well soloed Clog right hand, towerslabs and Hidden, then talked this guy who was out for a walk into doing Left hand. I thought of soloing it but then common sense kicked in. Russell the walker forgot his harness too, so we wrapped him up in a sling and told him Id keep the rope very tight.

Great pitch, perfect nick to, bone dry rock with clean and clear placements, shop load of in-situ stuff too. Easier than I thought it would be. IV5 would be about right today.

Russell did a brilliant job considering he had only done a couple of grade two’s before and some VS rock.

Top pitch was very very fat!!

Best regards

Alistair Boratt

Bagstar,

We went to the Ladders in the hope of great adventures however, its not too good up there! Little in nic at all! Possibly Eastern Arete (lots of icy runnels leading to the arete), Pyramid gully (just/marginaly possible from our distant angle), Central Gully has a very large hole in it. Galipoli none existent/black , Western Gully is bare and not proper Winter, The Somme we looked at closely but its ultra thin and looks rotten, maybe possible for the ultras. All buttress' black. The far end routes Nightfall looked good.The positives- the turf is frozen bottom to top and Icefall Gully was great on sound ice. The focus is 2/3 pitches of good ice at iv * with pre and after amble on good neve!

Stu and Lee

Ice Fall Friday

Thursday

Cwn Cneifion 11th Feb.

Nipped up expecting to see the crag as yesterday but not to be -
black, the faces looked like needed rock shoes so amended plans and
did Pillar Chimney with Jon on the sharp end for the trutch pitch.
Duncan, Miles & Lee followed us.

All ice looks gods and faces will not take much to 'winter up' again.
Did the ice route to right of North gully - just left of Cracking Up.
Good 4 with a very short (5m) but 6 exit direct on to perfect neve.
looked like others had sneaked off round left. Any idea of what it is?

Lots of folk in left & right gullies and one team on Torqueing Shit -
looked good pitch shame about the name. Nb. should it mot be torquing,
not torqueing?

Chris P

2010-02-10T22:18:00.005Z

Hi Baggy, exciting day today! Rory Shaw and I went to the ladders, with nothing particular in mind, and ended up doing Pyramid Buttress.

We had the older version of Pete Harrisons topo for it, that gives is IV ?. So we were expecting pitches of sort of 4. The first pitch, from the neve slopes to bit of a terrace was fine, soloed that, then the second pitch to a snowy bay just down and right of the diagonal crossing of the ice was pretty desperate! The turf wasn't 100% frozen here and there was no bloody gear! Ended up going a bit high and having to down climb a short section. Rory took the next pitch, up an ice smear, then across a thin ledge with overhanging rock above, luckily there were lots of positive handholds so it wasn't as bad as it looked from below. At some good in situ tat we took another belay, and I lead the next pitch, which I assume would usually cross the ice, instead, I could get behind the huge icicle (bomber runner!) and follow the ledge up left, to a good 2 spike belay with a bomber nut to back up. I think from seeing it previously that the last 2 pitches that the guide describes as 1 (though no way could you do it on 60 ropes!) that this area usually has a big ice sheet rather then the odd smear/icicle? The next pitch was the traverse! Wow! I doubt there is any other pitch like that in the world. A full 50m worth at least, mainly on sloping turf ledges, a few ice smears to negotiate, and the block! Where you would step around, with a void beneath you hanging off a lay-back, to reach another lay-back on the other side, and then do some sort of little controlled fall to catch a spike! A truly mad move. Another 10m on and your pretty much on the arête, which very disappointingly you look down from and see that you could reach this point very easily by walking up from central gulley!! So much for thinking this was the line of least resistance to getting up there. From there on fantastic grade 3/4 ground leads to the top, one step on the arête we deemed too hard to pass! I wonder if its been done? There is always an easier way around though which is great. I'm thinking now that the route we did today might not have actually been Pyramid Buttress as described but a similar variant (above the traverse that is). We did it in 11 pitches, without any unnecessary short ones either it seemed. I think 185m in the guide might be a bit off. Good anyhow

To go up the bottom of central gulley and then go up left onto the arête would make for a brilliant grade 3/4 mixed climb!

Pyramid buttress really felt like an adventure, especially having no idea what to expect! I thoroughly recommend it. Perhaps let it freeze a little more though.

Cheers

Greg Cain

Word up Bagwah,

Manx Wall yesterday, and a "beefy" Mankini today. The crag was sociable today with lots of locals. Chew ticked all the ice routes on his first day out in winter, with V12 latte maestro Jim Mc. Megan and Ali enjoyed Y gully Lhand. Chris Parkin, Joni Rad-cliff, Duncan and Miles nipped up El Manco too. Lots of others enjoying bomber neve and ice in abundance.

Tim

Ysgolion Duon (Black Ladders), 10th February.

Tim Jepson reports:

Although the steep, lower buttresses and walls of Ysgolion Duon are still black, and hoar only covers the top third of the crag, there were a number of routes in genuine winter condition today.
Icefall Gully was climbed by John Peake and Ian Whitehead, while Owen Hayward and Tim Jepson did The Somme. Eastern Gully was soloed. The ice is a little thin in places, and your ice screws may need tying off, but it is continuous, and of excellent quality, supplemented by plenty of frozen turf whenever you need it. The neve is as good as it ever gets!

2010-02-08T18:59:00.015Z

Never been to the Ladders, get an insight to thee crag of the south by clicking this link. Climber Chris Guest

Also today

V good cons in Namless cwm, with the buttress's starting to rime up

good cons on parsley fern and watersilde and various routes on snowdon

Good neve anywhere you see it on hill

forecast is great upto and incl weekend

lets hope we have a little more snow and more rime

Clogwyn Ddu cliff in great nick, as the guys said over the weekend. Nipped out after Cot building, while the girls were at baby massage....sounds epic.

Soloed Left and Right gullies, Pillar Chimney with the variant start, and the ice chimney just left of Cracking Up. All of these were on hero ice and neve. Liam and Nick cruised up L Hand as I left, otherwise all quiet.
Spoke to Al Leary about conditions, but he said don't tell anyone. I think he's still a bit shy about "coming out".

Tim Neil

Also here is a quality picture

Baby Dave on Neanderthal good welsh V the boys thought

The OLD Favorite lets no one down

2010-02-07T18:32:00.006Z

Another good day here. A good frost, light winds and blue sky gave the neve seekers a cracking day out. AlSO Clogwyn Ddu the old favorite is still there.

Hi Baggy,

That Tim Jepson gets about a bit; Yr Wyddfa yesterday & Gylder Fawr today! He just pipped us to Y Gully Left Hand on Clogwyn Du this morning but being the gentleman he is, decided to let us have a crack at it first - it was dripping a bit too much for his drier taste I think! It was however in great condition with heaps of in situ gear to aim for/clear away. An excellent steep thin finish up a steep gully (to the left of the finish on the topo & right of the Pillar Chimney ice fall) provided extra value. Possibly V 5 at the mo'.

We were followed up it by the guy who did Flanders (Summer version) earlier this winter & that Greg Cain chap again!! Also did Pillar Chimney (start & finish variations) having seen Tim & John do it earlier.

Plenty of folk on the easier slabby & gully climbs on the opposite of the cwm tho' fewer than yesterday according to Jon. Y Gully Right Hand was taking a hammering too.

Another great day in N.Wales.

All the best, Geoff Bennet

Hi Baggy, was out with Bryn Williams and Gareth Evans on clogwyn Ddu today. Did left hand Y Gulley, behind a few other guys. Jon Byrne and Geoff were one of 3 groups ahead. Lots of crap coming down!! But it was the only really decent looking route up there today, right hand was all right too. The ice was down to the ground this morning, but it was thin, and so much came off under everyone on it that its a few meters off the ground by now, but passable without too much difficulty. It was very wet, we all got soaked but its fat enough and well enough protected with masses of in situ tat on the rock to the right. The chimney top pitch looked really thin, and got thinner as the other groups went up it, we went out left as it looked the much nicer ice, it took long screws and seemed bomber! Brilliant pitch. This route will improve as the week goes on I imagine.

Jon and geoff did Pillar Chimney variation behind Tim Jepson, did'nt look hugely wintry, but was apparently quite good. I don't think anyone dared to go up the chimney today though, very thin ice and no gear.

Here is a pic of Bryn on the top pitch in the sun

Cheers

Greg Cain

Catch 22 ! I chose the dark side

2010-02-06T17:50:00.012Z

With the forecast showing a good day for Saturday and clear skies on Friday it was obvious it was going to be cold Friday night. That was the case with a frost this morning and more clear skies.

Going up high to the Nameless Cwm or Snowdon one would find really good neve today. However, being in the lucky position of having climbed on Snowdon/Nameless Cwm many times in winter and the fact that Al Leary had moved over to the dark side this winter then it was only fair that I repaid the debt.

Therefore, off I went to North Wale's Costa Del Sol (aka - Tremadog ). It all felt so strange, using one fingers to climb and having the sun beating down on us, it was T shirt time by mid day and no wind. Even better, Eric opened the cafe, winner in ever sense. It really did feel like an early summer day.

So the dark side for me today, having been rock climbing. Hopefully it will be shorted lived, not sure what the attraction is AL, maybe you will have to show me one day.

Clear skies here again and the forecast for Sunday is freezing level at 8oom, so looks a good day in store for those of you hoping to bag some classic winter gully lines on neve.

On a final note the forecast up to thursday is showing freezing level at 300-200m each day. Bring it on. It we have this and then some snow, its on its way back.

REPORT ON WINTER CONS ON SNOWDON

Hi Baggy,

Clogwyn y Garnedd (Snowdon) - 6th February

After a clear night, an early alarm call and frost on the car, Tim Jepson, Dodie Palmer, John and Sarah Peake were amazed to find that they were the only people climbing on Wales' highest cliff this morning. Cave Gully and Central Trinity were in excellent condition with good neve and short ice pitches. Hundreds of walkers on the summit, lots in t-shirts and trainers; we felt a little self-conscious with all the 'right' gear!

Tim Jepson

Snowdon today

Cave Gully

Enjoy

Confession Time

2010-02-03T17:36:00.004Z

Baggy,

Once again, many thanks for your magnanimous write up of my recent,
rather modest winter achievements. As previously mentioned, it is an
honour to be given space next to the veritable who's who of North Wales
"big hitters".

After my New Years Day sojourn to Cwm Idwal ( where anonymity failed
rather spectacularly ), I must confess that a deeply disturbing
affliction was starting to build.

Despite my best efforts, the "darkness" was starting to beckoning !
Instead of the in-situ Sun Rock, Riviera and Gogarth guides,
inspiration on the bog was now being sought from a different genre
of publication !

A few days later, Ruth Willetts ( my fellow contender for the title of
chief winter- phobic ! ) and myself ( with newly refined disguise ),
sneaked back in under the radar for some more Idwal
"white shite" action.

Please find Ruth's pic of myself leading !!! the first main pitch of
Chicane Gully III. This should help to rectify and dispel, some of
the dastardly,semi slanderous comments of your New Years Day
report.

Especially in winter, I am a great believer in making life as easy
as possible, thus, as can be clearly observed, I am using some
fairly modern kit ( ie rigid, mono point crampons ).

The plastic boots and hard shell jacket might be considered
a bit "so last century", but these days, a man of my encroaching
twilight years,feels the cold a bit more than you youngsters.

I do realise and fully appreciate the benefits of using leash less
"streetfighters", but lets face it, I'm not the strongest climber in
the world ( as anyone who has witnessed my recent Beacon
performances will testify ), so I need all the help going ;
hence the leashes.

However, the axes have got lots of bends and squiggles in all the right
places, and don't seem to hurt my fingers as much as those old
school terradactyl beauties that I used to have.

Finally, the dashie mitts have been retired and the helmet is of fairly
modern, lightweight design.

As for the route, it wasn't bad at all ( and strictly off the record
Baggy ), both Ruth and myself almost enjoyed ourselves !

Since I may now have moved another notch closer to the N Wales
winter "Alumni" ( aspirant status of course ), I enclosed a tweeked
description of what is currently written in the winter guide.

P1, easy angled snow / ice leads to a stance to the left of the
icicle of Grecian 2000.

P2, up the gully to an easing at 30 mtrs ( possible awkward stance ).
Continue up the narrow runnel on the left, then snow slopes lead to
a good rock belay on the ledge to the left of the upper gully. 60 mtrs
in total.

P3, traverse right along the ledge, and climb the gully ( past another
awkward stance at a big thread ) to the top. 60 mtrs.

And with the above ascent, in a mere six days, I'd increased the
total number of winter routes I'd done in the
previous decade ,by 100 % !

Best regards

AL

Alright Baggy,

Feeling like Billy Nomates, I headed into Cwm Cneifion today on my own. Climbed Tower Slabs, Nameless Face, Hidden Chimney and two other unnamed short grade II/III ish gullies on the buttress to the right of the main Clogwyn Ddu crag (pics & explanation attached). Then headed to Y Garn to climb Boomerang Gully for some strange reason which I'll never really understand.

The Cwm Cneifion routes I climbed were surprisingly all in reasonable nick, some of the ice a bit wet, some brittle. It also looked like the ice on Pillar Chimney and Clogwyn Left Hand had survived well. Boomerang Gully was a sopping mass of wet snow. New snow falling down to about 600m in the morning, chucking it down once the south westerly had really taken hold by 3:30pm. Miserable afternoon! I wonder how much longer the Cwm Cneifion routes will hang on?

The two unnamed routes I climbed were really pleasant short climbs. I'd be really surprised if no-one had bothered to climb them before, unless they've just been overlooked on the way to bigger things. The left hand route was about grade II, a 12m (ish) section of ice and then straightforward snow. The right hand line was about grade II/III, possibly III, and had a 15m pitch of ice, then snow to a cave - looked like there was a good thread belay here - then another 15m of ice and onto easier ground (if you keep left - easy snow if you climb left immediately after the cave then head slightly right). Total length about 60m, splittable half way at the cave, good spikes available for belays. The two routes would make nice intro routes I think, useful for people to nip up if the queues are too big elsewhere! Routes marked in red on attached photo and the blue line made an uncomplicated convenient descent at just about grade I.

Hope any of this is useful.

Cheers
Dave

Why go any where else

2010-02-01T17:12:00.031Z

When conditions on one of the best winter crags in the UK are like they are, then why go anywhere else ?

The Black Ladders are again in quality nick.

Today I managed to fit Gallipoli ( V-5 ) in with Simon Verspeak. Having been informed of it's quality over recent weeks, I was keen to tick it off. What a quality route this is, a full 3 stars. An initial solo of grade I-II ground on bomber neve, brings you to the start of the main climbing. You are then gifted with 4 quality pitches ( 4-4-5-3 ) of continually interesting climbing, ice, neve, turf all keep you whooping with joy even to the last axe plant as you top out.

What more do you need. Total length of climbing nearly 300m. However, not a route if you like lots of gear, but never any surprises. The description on Pete,s topo on the welsh winter wiki is spot on, use that and ignore the info in the welsh winter climbs.

After this we had a quick look at a possible new route lower down, but things not quite as frozen so best left for another day, meaning the cafe was on the agenda for once.

On the way down go chatting to a mate of Len Lovett who put the route up in 1991 with Chris Ayers. Great end to a great day.

I do hope the weather over the next week or so does not go warm for an extended period as it would be a shame to loose the conditions we have on this crag.

Party on Eastern Gully were also delights with the great conditions. That was it only 5 folk on the crag.

Pitch 1

Si on pitch 2

Pitch 3

Crux of route, a couple of moves and its over

Hope you all enjoyed the weekend if you got out. Nice to see good weather matching up with a weekend for once.

Also Blenderhead receives a rare ascent ( see below ). This route which was in the headlines last winter is one of the harder routes in Wales at VII-8. Seems like Lee has done well pulling all those hoses

Baggy,

Another day off work again so we headed to Clogwyn Du where Lee had his eye on Blenderhead. Conditions were proper Winter and apart from one heart stopping moment, he cruised it! Cliff was well hoared. Storm and Ivan made a neat ascent of Pillar Chimney also. Long last Winter!

Lee about to start crux on Blenderhead having climbed VI-6 to arrive here.

Lee Roberts 'out there' on Blenderhead

Stu

Hey Baggy,

Very cold in the wind today up in Cwm Cneifion, fleeting visibility and lots of rime coating the crag... Climbed Right Hand Gully Direct on Clogwyn Ddu with Jim Potter; in great condition, taking ice screws in a number of places. Saw teams on Cneifion Arete, Pillar Chimney & Blenderhead

Cheers,

Chris

Photo:

Jim Potter approaching belay on Right Hand Gully Direct

seems like the ladders was the place to be again

2010-01-31T16:26:00.014Z

Another cold day here and it also snowed down to sea level

Hi Baggy,

The Ladders are still improving in condition; more ice at the bottom of Central Gully (according to Jon) & lots of frozen turf. Gallipoli was in excellent condition tho' with heaps of spindrift! A 3 star route. We were followed up the route by a young Greg Cain. Ice Fall Gully & Pyramid Gully were also climbed but don't know what happened to the party on Central Gully who seemed to be struggling to avoid the crux & a team who were headed for Ypres/Artic Fox. Grimer was also there but not sure which route he was headed for; he rated Pillar Chimney & "El Mancho"!! on Clogwyn Du!

A pics attached so you can seee how good it was!

All the best,

Geoff Bennett

Alright Baggy,

We were also on the Ladders today, and had a quick early morning romp up Pyramid Gully.
Still a fair bit of ice in there although it was very britle and, 'dinner plating' with every placement!
Bomber neve under the layer of fresh powder, and heaps of spindrift! see pics below

Cheers

Allan Robb

Hey Baggy,

Went up and climbed Main Gully on Glyder Fach today, loads of firm neve and some good ice; just had to avoid the odd river of graupel flowing down the route when the heavens opened! The direct 'East Gully' start looked very mixed so I did the traverse in. Few inches of fresh snow on the tops, poor visibility and a brisk wind, in stark contrast to yesterday...

Cheers,

Chris

Photo: Alphabet Slab/Main Gully (Glyder Fach)

Its back on the Menu and was 5 star today

2010-01-30T18:24:00.039Z

It always amazes me how suddenly the winter just comes back. Well I suppose it does not just come back, but it often feels this way.

Today we were blessed with a perfect winter day. Low temps, clear sky, light wind and great turf and what about all that neve which is covering many parts of the hills. It is top notch. Oh what joy.

I ventured into the Black Ladders today with Greg Cain and climbed Birdsong. This route was put up early Jan 010 by Adam Wainwright. Having recived a few repeats it has gained a reputation for good climbing. I would agree with this, the crux pitch does cover some steep rocky terrain at a grade which would seen unlikey from below and gives really good climbing. Good find that pitch. The route is 5 pitches once you reach the base of the difficulties of western Gully.

Steve Long and Paul Platt added a more direct start to pitch 1 a few weeks ago

We topped out to sunshine and great views. Days like this you need to make the most of. Needing to be home for 5, certain routes were out. However, we went and soloed Playschool III-3 and then Eastern Arete II-III, what a craking route that is. Need a grade 2, with the odd step of 3,mixed, then this is for you.

I spied 14 climbers, on routes such as Pyramind Gully ( good ice in there ), Western, and Eastern Gully

Pics below all of Birdsong

Greg topping out on first pitch

Greg Starting 2nd pitch

Me on crux pitch near the end of the difficulties

Greg at top of 4th pitch

Greg starting pitch 5

Greg on Eastern Arete

Hey Baggy,

Yet another stunning day in Snowdonia. Climbed 'C' Gully (II) in Cwm Clyd in good condition, excellent mix of neve, ice, frozen turf, along with a few patches of not-so-nice graupel. Fair few folk climbing 'B' Gully (I/II) which also looked in good condition.

Cheers Chris

Cwm Clyd below summit of Y Garn

From Tim Jepson

Cwm Cneifion, Saturday 30 January

Cwm Cneifion (The Nameless Cwm) was doing an excellent impersonation of the Alps again today with acres of rock hard neve, ice in abundance and sunny top-outs! A steady stream of climbers arrived in the cwm from 8.00am to midday, chose their grade and ensured that ascents were made of most classics from Tower Gully to El Mancho. Clogwyn Ddu Left hand, so often short of ice this year, had a continuous run from bottom to top and looked eminently climbable, but when we left, around mid-afternoon, it was still under siege by the first party to try it. Despite a biting northerly wind the summit plateau of the Glyders was as beautiful as we have ever seen it. Another great day!

Tim Jepson
Dodi Palmer

Clogwyn Ddu

Dodi on R/H Branch

Summit of Glyders

2010-01-29T18:51:00.003Z

The weather has been cold today with a good wind chill on hills. Some new snow fell , not loads and mainly above 600/700ms. We had groups on the hill today, snow was neve higher up on Y Garn, and neve and ice etc on rocks above south summit on Tryfan.

Need to go fairly high this weekend. However, it is a good forecast for Sat and Sun

Enjoy

Gloggy got a little hammering along the way

2010-01-27T21:38:00.002Z

Cloggy is a strange crag, in that it is not often in good nick when other crags are. However, this winter it allowed climbers in.

Whilst Wales was under is's magical, Tim Neil, alongside a range of partners made numerous trips up to Cloggy. In doing so, 2nd ascents, new routes and classics were climbed, making it the most productive season on Cloggy for some years.

Route 68

First off, with Ray Wood, Tim climbed, ( which we think is the second ascent ) Route 68. This was first climbed by Mick Fowler back and Paul Ramsden in 2005 and they gave it V. This year, the boys thought that was a very traditional grade.
.

Route 66

Next up, with lots of other crag approaches being wade fest, Tim took the Cloggy option again. Finding a nicely trampled Snowdon path led to the split, then a short effort into the cliff.

From here Chris Parkin and Tim started via pitch one of Route 68. Where it steps left into the steep left facing groove, they went straight up a steep right facing one to a big ledge with handy spike. Next pitch took the big corner above, moving left through roofs at the top.

This new route was named Route 66, VI,6, good gear and steep.

Not content and needing to get off, they moved right and did Camus,V, ( another Fowler route ) which made a great combo.

From here a quick descent down bomber snow and ice via Eastern Terrace.

That day, NO ONE ELSE on the crag and people enjoying skiing down the Llanberis path

Chris Parkin on Route 66

Black Cleft VII-7

A route with a historical background and one which has seen many a good climber back off due to poor conditions and hard mixed climbing.

Tim teamed up with Chris Forest and they found good conditions and a route with quality and hard climbing. The route had quite a few ascents after this, then it all went warm

Chris Forest starting up Pitch 3. This is where often there is not enough ice to allow one to get up to the higher mixed section.

This picture of me in 2008 shows the ice in its normal state ( thin and fragile ) Not long after this we aborted our attempt due to thin and poor ice

The amazing thing regards this route was that Tut Braithwaite Soled it !!! in 1982, not a bad day out, oh yes he also nipped into the pass after this route and soled Central Gully V and Crown of Thorns IV

Finally

No report on Cloggy would be worth its salt, if Jubilee Climb was not mentioned. A route which which oozes quality in every mixed sense and one which is good value for its V grade.

This pictures shows Libby Peter on the 3rd pitch ( depending on how you pitch it ) being belayed by Olly Sanders who gave it 4 stars .

Looking for " more excitement and deciding what use is a guide book " as Olly put it, a possible new variation finish might have been climbed that day.

So Cloggy gave up some of it's treasures but it was short lived

Its coming back in

2010-01-26T20:56:00.002Z

Hey Baggy,

A quick update, went up to Clogwyn Y Garnedd and climbed Left, Central and Right Trinities; all in good condition today, can't say much about any other routes as I couldn't actually see them (it was very claggy!).

Chris Hooper

Also Nameless Cwm is in good nick with lots of routes climbed over the last few days and I have had reports that some of the routes on the Ladders look in good nick.

Warm on wed, but cold after that, get out there