Monday, 24 January 2011

On Hold

As there are no climbing conditions, then the blog is going on hold.

When conditions improve then I will come back on line again.

Thursday, 20 January 2011

Cold and Bare

Its been well cold since Monday and the ground is bullet hard low down. However, there is no snow around for climbing.

There has been quite a few discussions regarding the parking issue up at Gerlan. Quite a few local climbers including myself are concerned it could all get out of hand.  So once conditions do return please refrain from parking in the places that are not suitable.


Friday, 14 January 2011

Dim Parcio Part 2

This is the feedback from the BMC ref the parking issue at Gerlan.  It si nice to see them on the ball and being so quick in their assistance. Thanks to Elfyn Jones at BMC Cymru Wales.

Also,  seems the Council are to embark on placing parking restrictions up in this area, so it will only make it more difficult to park in this area.

Tuesday, 11 January 2011

Dim Parcio

Hi Folks

Had this message sent to me on Sunday by a local climber who was happy to put his name to it, but I felt that was not required.

Hey Baggy. 

On the walk back to Gerlan ( Sunday ) we passed 2 cars parked in "Dim Parcio" lay by, just a short walk from the village. Both of them had full length key scratches down the sides. Highly likely as a result of where they parked.  It's very clear in your guide, on your blog and on the wall beside the layby that parking problems are a major issue. 

These two car owners have been pretty badly penalised, but it's fair to say that it is their own fault. Maybe you could include some of this text in you next blog, just to remind and wake folk up a bit. 

An extra 5 minutes on the walk in and out to the Black Ladders is bugger all!!!

I then received this message this evening

Had a great day on Icefall gulley on the ladders yesterday ( Sunday )  but was sad to return to a vandalised car parked outside Gwaun y Gwiail farm on Gerlan road. Someone had gone to great length to scratch two cars! What can we do? 

There is a problem and its even worse on weekends as the locals do not go off to work. The situation is one we as climbers must try and sort out.

I am not one for making a judgement on the blog as that is not what it is about. 
( Unless I am raving about the guide !! ) However, I do feel we should give consideration to other cars and users of the road in Gerlan as this time action was taken. I am not saying that action was appropriate but we need to understand the local issue.

I did raise the issue with the BMC last winter, with no outcome,  I will contact them again this week so what they think. However this issue of parking at Gerlan has been around and discussed for at least 10 years to my knowledge

The best way is not to block the road, not park in the passing places, not park where it says no parking, arrive after 7.30 midweek and leave before 5. and do not park in crazy places. 

Monday, 10 January 2011

Wet and Windy and another few new routes

It is a wet and windy day here today. 

Anyway more news of the weekend

Looks like Flanders had a few ascents Phil Dowthwaite and Paul Warnock climbed it on Saturday, again reporting good quality.

Yo Baggy

Climbed a new route around Cannon Fodder & Artic Fox area with Greg Cain & Torquil Bennett on Saturday.

Battle of the Bulge VI+  3,5,6,3,6  (perhaps VI as the gear was pretty shoddy in places & it was pretty sustained on pitch 3). 
Greg led thru' the crux rock bulge on pitch 3 (I got the turf bulge on pitch 5!); a balsy effort from the young lad.

All the best Geoff

Hi Baggy

Thought that I might take a good look at mixed climbing and see what all the fuss was about before the thaw. 

Myself and Simon White headed up Fallen Block Climb on Crib y Ddysgl. Flippin brilliant, not climbed often or maybe ever in winter I guess. Four good pitches and never a bad move on it. First pitch is poss 5 but really good. Loads of secure feeling hooks and torques. Reckon the pitches go at 5,4,3,4. 


Sunday, 9 January 2011

Another good fine day in Wales

With a good frost overnight and the wind dying off, Sunday was on for a good day. With the turf bomber, neve bomber and loads of climbers armed with the New Winter Guide it was a recipe for some quality climbing.

Lots of people out climbing classic ice, as well as Pyramid Buttress, Imminent Conflict, Gallipoli, Western gully and Geoff and team forging new ground right of Arctic Fox. Beautiful late afternoon light too.

Cheers Tim

Saturday was also another good day in the Park.

Mark Walker bagged Flanders saying what a great route it was.

Stu and Ben Sat afternoon on the Ladders. They climbed Pyramid Gully- quite tricky first pitch at present.

Lots of e mails saying how good Trinity and Nameless Cwm has been over weekend.

Seems like it has been a quality weekend in Wales.

Saturday, 8 January 2011

We can only hope

The waiting is finally over

Today the North Wales Winter Climbing Guide ( Interim ) went on sale in V12.

With a good stream of climbers turning up to buy the guide and the main team of contributors gathering to welcome the guide onto the shelves, a good morning was had at V12.

It must be noted,  that this guide is the work of a variety of climbers,  many local, who have supported this project. Without their work, the guide would not be as up to date and as interesting.

Tim Neill, Streaky Desroy, Chris Parkin, Rich Stone, Owen Hayward and Geoff Bennett are the main group that have given their time. However, there happens to be quite a list of others who have helped out in some form.

Simon and I would like to thank you all for your help and we all hope that any one getting hold of a guide finds it a valuable and welcome addition to their collection.

The scene in the V12 cafe this morning just after the guide arrived. Left to right: Jon Ratcliffe, Mark 'Baggy' Richards (guide author), Rhys Huws, Streaky Desroy, Nick Bullock, Keith Ball, Donald King, Tim Neill and daughter Photo: Si Panton

Tim Jepson reports from Friday :

It's still winter up there!

Despite a miserable forecast, there was no wind on Glyder Fach today and climbing conditions on Arch Gully were excellent.  What a wonderful route!  Great moves, safe stances, even better protection and ab back down to the sacs for lunch.  No complaints!

Photo:  Dave Williams smiling his way up the final moves of Arch Gully

Friday, 7 January 2011

Lots Going On and the guide has arrived

The forecasts were all over the place on Thurs eve. However, the met one this morning, seemed to ring true. Windy, light snow for some time then warming up in the afternoon.

I went to the Black Ladders today. Alistair came along for his first real expereince of mixed climbing, alongside visiting the Black Ladders for the fist time. I decided on Gallipoli V-5, as it has got 5 proper pitches giving a good mix of interest, its a classic and its in Cold Climb.

Turf was bomber and the crux lacking any neve or ice gave added interest.

Alistair top of P 3

Other teams were on Hedd Wyn, Tora Bora, Jacobs Ladder with another team on Gallipoli. There might have been others but with low cloud it was hard to see.

Hi Baggy

Went up trinity face, bit windy at times but had a great time on Central and R/H

Cheers Katherine

Sat Sun and Monday look ok, bit blowy but not to warm.

Tim Neill, Chris Parkin and Nick Bullock made another raid and grabbed another objective that had been climbers minds for since last winter, see link

Finally IT IS HERE

The long awaited North Wales Winter Climbs will be in V12 this Saturday.

Pre order you copy here if you cannot get in V12 shop. Be one of the first to get your hands on copy and use it

Thursday, 6 January 2011

More New Routes

They keep coming and Its been a top day here. Ladders busy, loads done and a cool hard short variation to Birdsong in the bag. More details soon.

Trinity Face ( Wednesday )

Dyn-Ogof, V, 60m

A well positioned counter line to Cave Buttress.Start just right of the toe of Cave Buttress below the shallow left facing groove.

P1 25m 4/5 Pull over the small bulge into the groove. Up this to gain the flake belays of Cave Buttress.
P2 35 m 5/6 Pull up and work up onto the left arete of the buttress, until an awkward move around it gains a good ledge. Along this for a few metres, then up onto a ledge below a steep right facing corner. Peg cracks will encourage you to go steeply up this to gain easier ground and to rejoin the easy upper ridge of Cave Buttress.
[Tim Neill and Jim Mac 5-1-11]

Ci-Tarw, IV/V, 60m

Follows the attractive grooved arete just right of Scoundrels Staircase, and left of the Lux Flakes gully.

60m 4/5 From the lowest point of the buttress, good block belay, take the airy feature directly with sustained ( at the grade ) climbing. Belay as for SS at good spikes/threads etc. Easier to the top.Hard to grade, obscure pro, awkward, exposed etc.
[Tim Neill and Jim Mac 5-1-11]


Hi Baggy

Great day out on the Trinity Face, Central, Right-hand and Cave Cheers Colin


Cruised around Y Garn having a ball on this neve what joy. Alice

Wednesday, 5 January 2011


Today has seen temps drop and a further cthin overing of snow above 600m

Hi Baggy - Report From Tuesday

Quite busy on Clogwyn y Garnedd today. Jim "Big Guns" McCormack (sp?) & Greg Cain did Cave Buttress & Gwyn Ein Byd, 2 other parties towards the Trinity Gullies but couldn't see them in the clag. Tim Neil made a very calm ascent (2nd?) of Streaky's Scoundrel's Staircase...accurately named, described & graded in the book (almost gearless) & I followed with Gwyn Ein Byd before the youngsters got on it! Both very good.

All the best, Geoff

Something different which may appeal to you.

Tuesday, 4 January 2011

Delayed Xmas Present - but worth It

Hi Baggy

Attached is a pic of Stu Stanley on Sods Law on Snowdon taken on Monday, from Cave Gully (which was good but a bit tougher than usual) Picture by Tim Sparrow.

Picture of Geoff Bennett seconding Cannon Fodder on Monday ( Taken by Huw Gilbert from Central Gully ) look middle left.

Before Xmas I suggested that the best present would be the new Interim North Wales Winter Climbing Guide. However, due to the large amount of snow that fell on the UK before Xmas there were delays. I am pleased to say it is hoped that it will be in V12 this Saturday. From there it will be distributed nationwide.

Monday, 3 January 2011

Two good days and two new routes to kick the new year off. Another VII in the mix

Seems the last few days have provided some good climbing with many parties enjoying the weekend and Bank Holiday.

Parties have been enjoying classic neve conditions on Snowdon, Cwm Glas, Nameless Cwm, Y Garn and the Ladders to name a few. Easy gullies have been transformed from soft snow to neve.

HI Baggy,

The neve on Y garn and Glyders is bomber. 25 people on Banana gulley !!!!
We nipped up C and B down A and back via the kitchen. Some Ice building there not much.


Hi Baggy
Great day ticking some grade 1 and 2 gullies on Snowdon
Cheers Ray

Lovely day on Y Garn great neve. Bill Harris

Managed to climb parsley Fern at last.

I walked into the ladders with Tim and Nick and met quite a posy of locals. Other teams arrived later in the day. Not every route was in, with some of the harder steeper climbs being a little black. We choose Artic Fox V-5 which gave 2 good pitches on bomber snowy turf.

Other teams were on icefall R/H, Holylands Climb and Pyramid Gully. Not sure what others climbed.

Chris Parkin just cannot stop, Only 3 days into 2011 and he is at it again. Another VII to his tally.

Report from Geoff Bennett today. Mind you Geoff is just as bad

Couldn't stop him I'm afraid; Cannon Fodder VII 6.5 up the thin turfy open grooves between Artic Fox & Cannon Rib/Menin Gate (?). Chris got the 2 hard pitches, I just had to pootle along & not worry about the long run outs. Chris will put the details on the wiki later.
All the best & thanx for the trax to the top!
Cheers Geoff

Lee Roberts and Stu Stanley managed to squeeze another new route in on Snowdon ( Trinity Face ) today. Sods Law IV-5. Takes a line between Cave Gully Left and Gwyn Ein Byw. Good effort chaps

Stu on Sods Law

The forecast for Tues and Wed looks like its warm again. However, there is more chance of snow and temps dropping again Thurs / Fri so might be good near the end of week/week end.

Sunday, 2 January 2011

Back on for some

Last night the temps dropped and we had a sprinkle of snow from about 500m upwards.

Reports of good neve in the gullies and a busy day on the Trinity Face. Pics later

Andy has been on Y Garn see his blog for more info

Pic of the Ladders today at 3.00pm.

Saturday, 1 January 2011

Dank Day, Happy New Year & CBE

Today has been a grey, cloudy and wet day. Light rain in the morning followed by a dry spell then more drizzel this afternoon.

Went on a ride around the park with a few other fellow climbers, blowing off last nights efforts. In the gaps in the low cloud, no snow high up, just a wet , cloudy, dank day.

Due to go cold this evening and over next few days.

Happy New Year folks, not the best start to a new year ref climbing conditions, but there still is another 2-3 months left. Fingers crossed.

Check out the link to see which legend has just got a CBE